Hyd. Hood Supports (done with pictures)

[getboosted]

Curtis: I don't have any problem with it wanting to bulge the hood when closed or hiting the strut tower at all. I made the brackets just high enough to clear the strut tower when the hood is closed. Since I don't know how to weld, it was just easier to bend brackets. I like your design, it looks factory.
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GVR4 #1421

 

SICK HEADLIGHTS Curtis... i like that alot.

where are those from?

 

[lunchbox]

Is there a way to get really weak ones for us CF hood users?

 

[mistaVR4]

Awesome work as usual Curtis! I like the higher ones a little more as well just for practical reasons but its a super idea and I would definitely be interested in a set when they are available! How would this work with a CF hood though? To much pressure?



Quote:
SICK HEADLIGHTS Curtis... i like that alot.

where are those from?



These are another Curtis special. He makes some incredible stuff and does a superb job at everything he puts out. Keep it up man! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[curtis]

Quote:
SICK HEADLIGHTS Curtis... i like that alot.

where are those from?



As with everything else I own, there my creation. Why buy when you can build. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

 

[atc250r]

I likey too!! Scott was DEFINITELY right, even at a towering 5'8" (/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif) the stock hood is a little too low for me. Too bad those suckers will break my CF hood in half. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

John

 

[cheekychimp]

Actually John I disagree. I think the RX-7 design could be made to work easier with the carbon fibre hood.

Get a length of solid small diameter rod a tad shorter than the distance between where the hood bolts to the hinges and the location that the hydraulic supports bolt to the hood.

Cut a slot in the rod at both ends and weld in a small plate that you can drill holes in. Now at one end bolt that welded bracket between the hood and the hinge (or the underside of the hinge).

The other end could be a bit tricky as you will need to find a way to reinforce the bolting point onto the CF Hood. But if you can do that the stress would all be on that rod rather than the hood.

 

[curtis]

Its called a doubler Paul. Airplanes have them all over them. On a carbon hood you would have to cut two pieces of aluminum. One would go on the inside of the support and the other on the outside like a sandwich. There bolted together and the inter one would have the nut welded to it or the bracket welded to it. The other is there to bolt or rivit the two togther. The problem with the carbon hoods are weight and rigitity. With just the one on the car yesterday it wanted to push the hood to the drivers side that means the hood mount/hinge area would need to be supported with a doubler also and you would have to find a cylinder with hardly any force what so ever. The ones I used on mine could be collapesed by pushing them down against the ground. I didn't measure the amount of force to crush them but it is probably up around 50 pounds of force. With two fifty pound cylinders on a carbon hood the cylinder will force the hood up while closed and tear away at the fiber any time its closed. Also if the force wasn't just right and the mounting points correct the first time you closed the hood it would want to bend in the middle and brake. So using the longer rods would be a much better design. Just finding them in a 5 pound design would be hard.

This could be do on a carbon hood using some type of bellcrank/nautilus design if there was room over to the sides of the car. You would have a rigid bar with rod ends on each and as the hood is raised the piston pushes on one side of the nautlus disk and the top side would also rotate to push up on the rigid rods which would open the hood.

 

[89Mirageman]

Very good idea, I like it.