The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

How-To: Hallman MBC mounted in dash!

This is NOT the in-cabin series from Hallman, it is just the PRO series and is $75 cheaper and just as easy to do.

Things you need:
Hallman Pro MBC
Rubber/Metal Clamp (included from Hallman)
20ft. vaccuum hose w/ zipties
Phillips screwdriver
Flathead screwdriver
Long skinny bolt
Nut & washer

First you need to remove the hvac bezel. There are 2 phillips head screws up top, and 2 when you pull out the ash tray. Pull off the 2 sliders for climate control, then pop off the bezel.

Youll see 7 plug-ins in the back. Unplug them all and leave them hanging, the bezel should be free now.

Now you can set the bezel up-side down and take the Hazard button (red triangle) out from the back. There are 2 gold screws holding it in, take them out.

Once thats off, pull off the metal bracket on the side of the hazard button box. Take the 2 tabs sticking out and bend them in like below. This makes fitment much better.

Take one of those 2 screws and that metal bracket, and screw it in the bottom of the holes like this.

Twist the top completely off your MBC.

Stick the MBC through the hole that you have made, then tighten the top ALL the way down. The back of the MBC should be sitting firmly on the metal bracket you made.

Use the supplied Rubber/Metal clamp from Hallman and put it around the MBC and the bracket, so it stays snugly on the bracket.

Once everything is fully tightened and snug, make sure the nipples /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif on the MBC are pointing like this, and the bolt for the clamp is also like this. Its the only way it will go into the dash. Plug in all the plugs you previously took out.

Do a test fit before putting your vac lines on just to make sure you have it right and it fits. Make sure the little metal sliders for climate control pop back out their necessary holes. If it fits, pull it back off and run your vacuum lines. The side nipple goes to the wastegate, and the botton nipple goes to a vaccuum source. Run your vaccuum lines through a grommet in the firewall and keep them zip-tied away from any hot metal. Make sure to zip-tie all connections, so there is no boost leak.

Here is the final product! Notice I moved the Hazard button down to where the AC button was, I dont have AC anymore so I dont need it, and I need the hazard button to pass inspection. If you have AC and want to keep it, youll have to ditch the hazard button or relocate it. If you just ditch it unplug it and take it out like I did.

If anyone else does this, please pm me and link me to it I would love to see if my writeup helped someone else out, this is my first how-to! Admins/Mods feel free to Sticky this if it looks to be good enough.


Well-known member
Sep 11, 2003
Does the enormous length of vac line have an ill effect on your boost control? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Nope not at all. Did almost the same thing on my SRT4 and there was no difference either. Length doesnt really matter when youre talking about a hundred thousand RPMS lol.

EDIT: Oh, I only used about 9ft, I put 20 just incase, its really cheap anyways.


Since then I have also done the boost guage, its much smaller than your normal 2 1/4"

Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned