IncorpoRatedX
Well-known member
i seem to have this trend going with posting information on how to violate your GVR4 with parts from a girls car. Anyhow, i've seen a few threads in the past asking for info on swapping this trans into ones car. So i figured i'd toss up some pics of what i did today and what one needs in order to install this trans set up.
First of all the starter plate, goes between the block and transmission...
Must be from an AWD 2g the numbers stamped on it will be
356
G1-561
Here's how it will look on the engine, notice the red arrow is showing a hole that is completely useless on a 1g block. poor little guy, no purpose in life.
Also seen in this pic is the flywheel bolted down with the grade 11 flywheel bolts and utilizing red loctite on the bolts.
This picture shows the pressure plate bolts and again, my friend, the red loctite.
Remember that the pressure plate bolts are Grade 7, when digging through a misc bucket
of bolts its easy to find bolts that look similar but are a lower grade.
I always put the disc and alignment tool on first, i've seen people try to put the
assembly on together.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
then i tap the pressure plate evenly to get it somewhat seated.
please note: when tapping the word 'tap!' does not appear in mid air.
Blurry pic of the assembly torque down, generally put a breaker bar on the crank bolt on the timing belt side and rotate the crank until the breaker bar is pushing against the subframe, sorry i didnt get any pics of this but it helps when torquing down the bolts.
Next it's time to lube up the shaft, the ball and the the V. remember, too much grease and it can wind up on your clutch disk.. put lube on the ends of the V of the clutch fork, on the fulcrum ball and on the trans input shaft, i also carefully pack some down into the TOB just for safety's sake? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
You will need longer bolts for the slave cylinder as the trans housing is thicker in this area than it is on a 1g trans
this is just a pic of the trans before i installed it, i find it easier to remove the trans mount entirely so i can move the trans around however i want, but hey.. its up to you!
The trans is now bolted in the car, i will update with pictures of how i adjust the shifter cables accordingly after i install the new cables.
Hope this helps whoever in the future.
First of all the starter plate, goes between the block and transmission...
Must be from an AWD 2g the numbers stamped on it will be
356
G1-561
Here's how it will look on the engine, notice the red arrow is showing a hole that is completely useless on a 1g block. poor little guy, no purpose in life.
Also seen in this pic is the flywheel bolted down with the grade 11 flywheel bolts and utilizing red loctite on the bolts.
This picture shows the pressure plate bolts and again, my friend, the red loctite.
Remember that the pressure plate bolts are Grade 7, when digging through a misc bucket
of bolts its easy to find bolts that look similar but are a lower grade.
I always put the disc and alignment tool on first, i've seen people try to put the
assembly on together.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
then i tap the pressure plate evenly to get it somewhat seated.
please note: when tapping the word 'tap!' does not appear in mid air.
Blurry pic of the assembly torque down, generally put a breaker bar on the crank bolt on the timing belt side and rotate the crank until the breaker bar is pushing against the subframe, sorry i didnt get any pics of this but it helps when torquing down the bolts.
Next it's time to lube up the shaft, the ball and the the V. remember, too much grease and it can wind up on your clutch disk.. put lube on the ends of the V of the clutch fork, on the fulcrum ball and on the trans input shaft, i also carefully pack some down into the TOB just for safety's sake? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
You will need longer bolts for the slave cylinder as the trans housing is thicker in this area than it is on a 1g trans
this is just a pic of the trans before i installed it, i find it easier to remove the trans mount entirely so i can move the trans around however i want, but hey.. its up to you!
The trans is now bolted in the car, i will update with pictures of how i adjust the shifter cables accordingly after i install the new cables.
Hope this helps whoever in the future.