How do you bleed the master/salve clutch cylinders???

[MX4]

Hey people,
Another easy one for you guys. I need to bleed my clutch cylinders as we have just rebuilt them with new seals. I know there is a special bleeder thing you can buy but I dont have the cash right now. I also know there is a way two people can bleed the system without it. My question is how do you do it and what nipple do you use to do the bleeding. Also where are these located? Please please help me....im desperate....Thanks guysRyan[This message has been edited by MX4 (edited 05-02-2002).]

 

[ken inn]

the clutch slave has the bleed screw on it. it usually has a little rubber dust cap, but yours may be long gone. you crack it open only about a half turn, then depress the clutch pedal, and then pull it back up. the trick is to make the bleed line coming off of the bleed screw go up, then down into your receptacle. i take an old empty can of brake fluid, make a hole in the cap, and run my line(a clear line is best, so you can see the fluid coming out) into the cap. once you crack the bleed screw, you can loosen it with your fingers. it is an easy one person job, just make sure your resevoir doesnt empty. if you have difficulty, then you need another person to help. what you do, is tell them to step on the pedal, and hold it when it goes down, dont release it until you say. then, you loosen the bleed screw, when the pedal is all the way down, tighten up the bleed screw, and pull the pedal back up top. repeat a couple of times, and the system should be bled. i bleed my brakes and clutch all the time, and i never use the speed bleeders, just the line, and make sure it goes up, so when you release the pedal, no air goes backwards, only fluid.

 

[beavis]

if you don't have a friend to help you, it is possible and easy to gravity bleed the clutch line. simply open up the bleeder screw and keep the resevoir full untill only fluid comes out. this is how i do mine and it works fine.

 

[number3]

I installed a speed bleeder in mine and it makes it a snap with one person or two. A clear hose lets you see the air bubbles or lack of. Removing the slave from the tranny (but keeping it hookup to the line of course) to allow for the drain to be the highest point helps removing trapped air. For some reason the factory put the drain on the bottom making it possible for air to get trapped.Harry

 

can anyone tell me the speedbleeder part number that fits in place of the clutch bleeder nipple?

 

[gvr4ever]

quote:Originally posted by Remo:
can anyone tell me the speedbleeder part number that fits in place of the clutch bleeder nipple? Generic speed bleeders come with multiple nipples in different sizes. One of them should fit. You want nipples in differnt sizes too. I like them in different sizes anyway. If they were all the same size, life would be boring.

Nipple!

 

[Hertz]

Wow, good thing this topic was resurrected, I was just about to search/ask on this very topic.

I lost my clutch a few weeks ago (slowly engaged closer and closer to the floor until I could no longer drive it safely)... my clutch resevoir was almost empty.

Since it obviously lost fluid does that mean I *should* replace the seals in the cylinders? I was not able to determine exactly where the leak is, though there does appear to be a small amount of fluid near the clutch pedal and I recall a faint petroleum smell -- but if it was leaking in the footwell I would have expected more than just trace amounts of fluid.

Is the cylinder rebuild materials something I can get a generic autoparts store, or do I go Conicelli?

Thanks.

 

[4g63t]

quote:Originally posted by Hertz:
Wow, good thing this topic was resurrected, I was just about to search/ask on this very topic.

Is the cylinder rebuild materials something I can get a generic autoparts store, or do I go Conicelli?

Thanks. Yeah, me too. Specifically, I remember everyone agreeing that the rebuild kits everywhere have the wrong size piston, did anyone ever find a source for the right size? I have 2 slave cyls that are just sitting here waiting to be rebuilt.

 

I bought both rebuild kits (master and slave) at Advance Auto Parts.
Tru Torque CMK351513 CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER KT
Tru Torque CSK352155 CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER KIT

They are the correct ones for all USDM GVR4s.

 

[Bimmubishi]

This thread covers the bleeding question.

Search

Ryan, there's a slave rebuild kit from www.taylorautomotive.com that's cheap. It's two or more o-rings that's pretty much it. I used it a while ago and it worked great. I'm not sure/don't remember about the master cylinder though.

 

[Hertz]

Thank you!

 

Don't forget another really nice trick when bleeding a clutch slave cylinder. When you are done with the process of pumping the pedal and cracking the bleeder screw, try this. Get a hold of the slave rod, crack the bleeder and manually push the rod as far as it will go into the cylinder and then close the bleeder. It gets the air out that the pedal can't.