help with suspension install

I posted pics a little while ago of my hotbits. Well, The installation finally started. Unfortunately, all is not going as planned. I didn't spring for the camber plates. I was just going to use the stock stuff. But I ran into a couple problems.

First, on the front, the adjustment nob is having a space conflict with the stock strut mount. everything fits fine but the adjustment nob goes down into the collar of the mount. So it can't get tightened into place after the initial install. If a hole gets drilled through the collar to fit an Allen wrench in to tighten down the nob, will anything get messed up?

Second, on the rear, the main nut at the top of the old stuff has seized up. This has locked everything between that nut and the spring on the old stuff. I am contemplating buying all new stuff to replace it, but I'm not sure this is the best option. CAPS says i need these parts:
Quote:
MB242358 Bushing,rr Susp C
MB338610 Insulator,rr Shoc
MB338620 Collar,rr Susp Co
MB338613 Pad,rr Susp Sprin
MS440002 Nut,steering Gear
MB338618 Bushing,rr Susp C
MB242360 Washer,rr Susp Co
MF434105 Nut,p/s Oil Pump


Do I even need all of them? Since I can't get to them, I'm not sure what needs to be reused and what will be thrown out. I would hate to buy new parts that I don't need. Also, is there a better place to get these parts than the dealer? mitsubishiparts.net as all of these for about $85-$90 after shipping (I would get both sides).

thanks

 

Here is a pic of the parts listed above.

 

I know it is sunday so there might not be to many people looking at this, but does anyone have any advice or any comments for that matter?

 

[ducttapeguy]

First of all, I dont know jack about suspensions but for what its worth, I say go ahead and buy all the new parts that you listed. I know its fairly expensive but then you know that you have all new and perfect parts for your pretty new hotbits suspension. Just my .02. Good luck.
Tyler

 

[Gvr4-330]

You can get the adjustment knob working. Back it all the way out (full soft) and then after you get the strut top on, you can fit the knob on and tighten the allen wrench.

Also, 41433 is metal. It really won't go bad. Also, you won't need that cap (looks like a rubber dome) It would get in the way of the adjustment knob.

Rob

 

[Hertz]

Quote:
I know it is sunday so there might not be to many people looking at this, but does anyone have any advice or any comments for that matter?



Today is Saturday. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
I was thinking it was the weekend but wrote sunday! That's just funny.

Rob, are you saying, with the coilover off the car, back the adjuster out to all the way soft. Then take the knob off. Then install the stock mount, and I will have enough room around the collar to fit the nob on and the Allen wrench?

At this point, I'm wondering how I am even going to get to the adjuster with my fingers around the collar once everything is tight.

 

[Gvr4-330]

Paul.

Exactly. Though I may have used my Craftsman allen wrench which has a different end on it which allows a little more freedom in putting it on.

I can't give you a picture though, cause I have camber plates now.

Rob

 

I am probably a few days away from the exact same thing - Hotbits - no camber plates. So I will be addressing pretty much the same isues. Thanks for the pointer GVR-330
(My only delay - completely took apart the rear subframe - waiting for the bushings to arive now)

I am pretty much replacing everything I can - ball joints - tie rods - bushings - most all bolts. I agree with ducktape, I spent a pretty penny on the Hotbits, no sense in cutting cornes on other items. Especially as long as things are already apart.

I haven't completely pulled apart my old struts yet so I am not sure what I'll be replacing there.

 

take the rear strut to someone with a big rattle gun to get that nut off, and then use a rubber mallet to seperate the parts (mine were still stuck together quite firmly).

If no luck, you need new spring platforms (41433) and new nuts (41997C) and washers (41993B) for the top of the stut and new bump stops (41421).

With the fronts, soften the shocks all the way and the shaft will come upwards slightly, use an allen key with the ball joint on the end. I managed to get mine low enough (still not all the way down) to be able to put the standard black plastic cap over them to hide them.

Oh, and then get camber pins for the front wheels to get some -ve camber back.

 

[CP]

I'm in he middle of my Hotbits installation this weekend. I'm having trouble getting the left rear shock off the lower mount. The other one was a bit rusty but it came off after some whacking. The left side however is putting up a fight. I would have been surprised if this job went smoothly given this car's history /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif

I've got the mount and lower part of the shock body soaking in PB right now. I can move it front to rear, and side to side a bit, but it's not breaking loose. I've tried spinning the top in a circle too, but no go with that either. Any tips on how to break the lower shock mount off the spindle mount?

Found a blown ball lower ball back there which is going to have to wait until the off-season to be fixed. And the RRE rear strut tower bar won't accept that 17mm nuts that bolts the top of the coilover to the tower, so I'll be selling that and looking for a Whiteline tower bar.

I'm about to start on the fronts (after replacing a carrier bearing this morning) and will be putting some poly bushings on the lower A-arms at the same time. Hopefully it goes as planned.

The Tein SS coilovers will be for sale as soon as I can get them off the car...full pillow mounts all around, with camber plates up front. I will not break up the kit, so the plates will be sold with the rest of it.

 

[CP]

Any ideas on how to the the shock off the lower rear mount?

 

[atc250r]

When mine was stuck on I used a big pipe to force the strut off of the rubber bushing, then I was able to cut the bushing off. Finally, there is a steel sleeve under the bushing, I used an electric grinder to carefully grind that away until I ground all the way through and slid it off. Make sure you use anti-seize when you put it back together. Here's a link to the grinder:

SEARS GRINDER

John

 

An air chisel worked great on mine. Absolutely need to antisieze the new ones going on.
Mike R.

 

[CP]

Hmmm...I may need to head to Sears. I still can't get it off after a few hours of burning the bushing and hacking at it with a small flat-head. How did you use the air chisel? I'd like to sell these coilovers, so I don't want to mess up the bottom of this shock body too much.

 

[Larry Parker]

Try a bearing puller?

 

Quote:
How did you use the air chisel?



Just put it at the base of the sleeve aimed toward the free end and go. It actually didn't cut it off so much as the repetitive vibrations knocked it loose. Took all of about 10 seconds. And that was after I spent I don't know how much time with the manual heat and beat method.
Mike R.

 

[CP]

I'm going to stop by NAPA tonight and grab the gear puller again (that I just used on Saturday for the carrier bearing /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif ) I'll give it a try and then consider the air chisel if it doesn't do the job.

 

[CP]

Well the gear puller finally did the job, although it took a while. The metal sleeve didn't want to come with it. I took a Dremel cutting wheel to it and made a slice. Then I was able to dislodge it with some huge pliers and twist it off. Antiseize this time...