Help, got the car started, it won't go in gear

Boost for me, it's new and new /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif

 

so jmorri15 and I got together to work on the galant and after bleeding the system relentlessly, while bbqing steaks, we figured it has something to do with one of the three. The clutch master is defective, slave is defective, or a leak in the line. We were able to get the car in gear when using the current master but it would take a few pumps even after bleeding forever to get the car to go in gear, as soon as we turned the car on it would have to be pumped at least 5 times to get it to go into first, less for second. the slave seems like it is holding up well. I didn't see any liquid coming out of it when dried off and pressure was building in the system??? I am going to try Jmorri15's master and c if that is the prob. Figure it would be the only thing that would go wrong internally, the slave would leak and the line would leak or squirt when pressurized. It feels like a slow to moderate leak of pressure, and it must be built back up by continually pressing on the clutch 100000000 times before each gear change. God forbid you ever hit a red light. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif but my I def can say Jmorri15 is def a cool owner, and I appreciate how he looked out for a fellow vr4 member. Very knowledgeable, and willing to share his knowledge. It was my first time meeting another vr4 member. We went through the whole we can whip a evo convo and Shock and Aw the world of spoiled brats in daddy's bmw....all and all a good day.pc

 

HELP. I know what I'm about to suggest is a "Band Aid" but I really need to pass inspection in VA...I want to make sure the car gets into gear fine. Which it does after pumping a bunch of times like I said. I can't find the odd man out as of right now, the slave cylinder, clutch master or line. I was wondering If anyone has ever used Lucas's Hydraulic Booster & Stop Leak for this purpose?? I can't find any reviews on the product? Does anyone have any other products that may be better? As soon as I get the doe I will fix it right, but a clutch master from mitsubishi is going to run me 230 bucks!!! O /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif (If that ends up being the problem )

 

I just replaced the master with a all new master..I also got some 2g braided lines...and am now waiting on the new slave even though I don't see anything wrong with this mediocre pepboy brand...still selectivly engages...I bleed the heck out of the line...should I power bleed...can't be anything else right? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

[Eaglesfly]

Have you verified that the slave cylinder is the correct one? Auto parts stores will give you one that fits, but it's from a non-turbo car and has a larger bore size. What this means is it takes more fluid to move the slave cylinder and less clutch engagement. If you have a micrometer, the correct bore size should be 3/4" I believe. If it's a larger size (13/16"), you have the wrong slave.

OrlDSM has a decent thread from several years ago on this.

Also, when installed a clutch master, I always bleed it right at the line connecting to it. That's where all the air will all be. There's no sense in trying to push all the air down to the slave to bleed it. After bleeding at the top, then I proceed to bleed at the slave 2 or 3 times for good measure.

 

[mikus]

^ +1 a master "bench bleed" is always a worthwhile when you've got it off teh car and dry.

 

i fill the system from the slave and i works great now.....thanks every1

 

Damn that sounds like a nightmare, and i thought i was having trans problems, did you check the slave cylinder, cause i had to change mine wen i sent my trans to shep.... grant it that the trans i sent them was out of a 91 tsi awd 22 spline tranny i can call my shop and ask them what they think if you want