hey whats up guys, about to buy a VR4, Im a newbie to Galant VR4's but not TURBO AWD cars, I had a 310whp wrx, and have always loved these cars, as a newbie what would you all suggest, what are the cars low points that can break, what are its strenghts that can be take advantage of ect
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey. Login to browse without most ads.
sag1441
Well-known member
leaking 4ws, if youre making lots of power and launching hard, the 3 bolt rear end could be considered a weak point
CP
Well-known member
How do you plan to use the car?
^ I want it to be quick, probally running it up at summit point during the summer, and driving her to florida a few times, so basically, reliable, ect
kcpaz
Well-known member
I would have these pointers...
1. These cars are now 15-16 years old. As fun as they are to modify, remember that most have been daily drivers for a long time, and most are in bad need of some routine maintiance. Things I would check before I spend a single dollar on mods would be brake lines, timing belt, suspension components (bushings and shocks), leakdown/compression test, change all fluids if you aren't 100% sure how old they are, and of course, tires.
2. The 3 bolt rear will probably be the first thing to go if hard launches and drag racing is your priority....assuming your clutch will allow you to put down enough power to brake things.
3. These cars are known as "sleepers" with classic, traditional styling. That may sound korny, but it's true, so keep the boy racer, flashy, rice crap down to a minumum. Afterall, we have a reputation to uphold.
That's my $0.02. Welcom to our cult /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
1. These cars are now 15-16 years old. As fun as they are to modify, remember that most have been daily drivers for a long time, and most are in bad need of some routine maintiance. Things I would check before I spend a single dollar on mods would be brake lines, timing belt, suspension components (bushings and shocks), leakdown/compression test, change all fluids if you aren't 100% sure how old they are, and of course, tires.
2. The 3 bolt rear will probably be the first thing to go if hard launches and drag racing is your priority....assuming your clutch will allow you to put down enough power to brake things.
3. These cars are known as "sleepers" with classic, traditional styling. That may sound korny, but it's true, so keep the boy racer, flashy, rice crap down to a minumum. Afterall, we have a reputation to uphold.
That's my $0.02. Welcom to our cult /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
^ lol I hate the boy racer stuff, thats why I had a WRX and not an STi that wing kills it for me, my car looked bone stock from the outside, excluding the front mount which required a second look anyways, but yeah im not going to do anything ricey or anything
toybreaker
iconoclast
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2006
- Messages
- 3,581
Did you get any maintainance records with the car?
Before flogging on it at all, you should give the whole car a wheels off examination, for safeties sake...especially if you're like most owners and you're going to run the car hard and fast and expect it to perform, and yet still live a somewhat reliable life.
Pay close attention to any leaks/wet spots, as they'll have to be dealt with. A good steam cleaning after noting the leaks will help you assign the order/priority you fix them...(when they re-appear, and re-spooge your nice, clean engine compartment. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif)
Pull the upper timing cover and inspect the timing belt. If it doesn't look brand new , set aside some time and just do it. 4g63's will bend all the valves when the belt skips time, or breaks.
I would inspect/change all the driveline fluids. There's some excellent threads on redline, and other synthetic driveline fluids in the archives here. Changing the fluid now is cheap insurance against expensive problems further down the road.
Thoroughly inspect the radiator/cooling system. Any hoses that are hard and brittle need to be relaced. In addition check the hoses at the throttle body, t-stat housing, and down at the oil cooler. They get covered in oil, and begin to swell/deteriorate. Any hoses that have become oil saturated are just waiting till it's inconvienent to burst. Especially the one down by the filter. When it hoses the turbo, or alternator down, you'll know it.
Change the fuel filter.
Check the clutch hydraulic system, starting at the reservoir. If the fluid is low, peel the boot back on the clutch slave cylinder and check for fluid. You can also look above the accelerator pedal inside the car for signs the master is leaking.
Check the four wheel steering system for leaks. Follow the hoses from the pump to the rack, and then on back to the rear rack, looking for seeps/leaks/issues.
While you're back there, check the rear brakes and e-brake cables. The rear calipers can, and do, sieze up. Check the pads for tapered/weird wear patterns, and make sure the e-brake arm moves freely.
Make sure there's a spare tire, jack and lugwrench available for the roadside flat tire drill.
After a thorough inspection, take it out and play some, you'll like it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
Edit; damn I type slow, nice posts!
Before flogging on it at all, you should give the whole car a wheels off examination, for safeties sake...especially if you're like most owners and you're going to run the car hard and fast and expect it to perform, and yet still live a somewhat reliable life.
Pay close attention to any leaks/wet spots, as they'll have to be dealt with. A good steam cleaning after noting the leaks will help you assign the order/priority you fix them...(when they re-appear, and re-spooge your nice, clean engine compartment. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif)
Pull the upper timing cover and inspect the timing belt. If it doesn't look brand new , set aside some time and just do it. 4g63's will bend all the valves when the belt skips time, or breaks.
I would inspect/change all the driveline fluids. There's some excellent threads on redline, and other synthetic driveline fluids in the archives here. Changing the fluid now is cheap insurance against expensive problems further down the road.
Thoroughly inspect the radiator/cooling system. Any hoses that are hard and brittle need to be relaced. In addition check the hoses at the throttle body, t-stat housing, and down at the oil cooler. They get covered in oil, and begin to swell/deteriorate. Any hoses that have become oil saturated are just waiting till it's inconvienent to burst. Especially the one down by the filter. When it hoses the turbo, or alternator down, you'll know it.
Change the fuel filter.
Check the clutch hydraulic system, starting at the reservoir. If the fluid is low, peel the boot back on the clutch slave cylinder and check for fluid. You can also look above the accelerator pedal inside the car for signs the master is leaking.
Check the four wheel steering system for leaks. Follow the hoses from the pump to the rack, and then on back to the rear rack, looking for seeps/leaks/issues.
While you're back there, check the rear brakes and e-brake cables. The rear calipers can, and do, sieze up. Check the pads for tapered/weird wear patterns, and make sure the e-brake arm moves freely.
Make sure there's a spare tire, jack and lugwrench available for the roadside flat tire drill.
After a thorough inspection, take it out and play some, you'll like it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
Edit; damn I type slow, nice posts!
Last edited:
Definatly maintanance before mods. I bought mine almost a year ago and the bitch still won't let me mod her. I've done a few BS things to her, but mainly maintannce and reapairs. she's been kicking my ass all year long. when one thing doesn't break, it's another. I bought her dirt cheap so I figured we were gonna box for a while. So far Iv'e changed radiator, shocks,Cv axles, clutch and flywheel w/ the works, starter, damper pulley, timing belt w/ the works, water pump 3 times! and a few more knick knacks. I got her to the point that all I needed to do is fix the carrier barriers and U-joints, and fix the problem with the dash( half works, half don't). Then the ignition coil started arcing spark. So right when I was about to change it, the timing belt snapped and I bent all the exhaust valves. Now i'm slapping on a 2g head as soon as I get my 2g exhaust manifold in the mail. Fun stuff. I'm gonna beat this bitch even if it breaks my bank book. Thats my expirience with the vr4. Good luck and welcome aboard.
powerplay
Well-known member
The first 2 things you should buy are the FSM on CD and a set up to log the ECU. With those 2 things you will be in much better position to begin the maintenance and eventual upgrades.
If you track it at Summit Point, you must have the best front brakes you can get. Our cars are heavy, front weighted, so, the front brakes are marginal for serious road tracking. Plus, they understeer like pigs.
At a minimim, I'd get new slotted, cyro-treated front rotors and stainless steel brake lines at all four ends. Then, swap in Porterfield R4 race pads in the front at the track; rear pads can be their R4S sport pad. To help fix understeer, install a big rear swaybar (Whiteline, I think, 24mm) and front caster bearings. Next increase front negative camber to - 1.5 with eccentric strut mounting bolts. This assumes all other suspension components are in good condition. Seach for lots of posts on brakes, road racing and suspension. brakes at road course
At a minimim, I'd get new slotted, cyro-treated front rotors and stainless steel brake lines at all four ends. Then, swap in Porterfield R4 race pads in the front at the track; rear pads can be their R4S sport pad. To help fix understeer, install a big rear swaybar (Whiteline, I think, 24mm) and front caster bearings. Next increase front negative camber to - 1.5 with eccentric strut mounting bolts. This assumes all other suspension components are in good condition. Seach for lots of posts on brakes, road racing and suspension. brakes at road course
Last edited by a moderator:
