Damn keep the pictures coming! Looks great so far. As for cleaning, maybe send it out when fully disassembled? I dunno...
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spoulson
Well-known member
Hmm.. Once clean, I wonder if powder coating is a good idea. Any recommendations?
But yeah, I can get the best cleaning done with all the case pieces bare. A friend has a sandblaster but I'm not sure that's a great idea.
But yeah, I can get the best cleaning done with all the case pieces bare. A friend has a sandblaster but I'm not sure that's a great idea.
Hertz
Staff member
Hot tank.
GVR-4
Well-known member
Yeah, I dunno about the sandblaster thing. Sure would suck to have any sand left in the case after it's all back together. I think I'll just scrub the case pieces with Simple Green and water and leave it at that. As for powdercoating, anything you do is gonna get scratched up when you go to put the tranny back in. I'm just gonna leave mine.
dp
dp
The trans is disassembled and hot tanked the same day. - Taken from team rip
Also I would put in md738053 it is a rainbow shaped screen. They have a spot to put it in our cars but did not put them in till 95. And mb001293 it's the drain plug for the transfer case which is the same as the trans only magnetic. md000312 is the gasket for the plug it is a 18mm plug I think mitsu wanted alot for these gaskets.
Also I would put in md738053 it is a rainbow shaped screen. They have a spot to put it in our cars but did not put them in till 95. And mb001293 it's the drain plug for the transfer case which is the same as the trans only magnetic. md000312 is the gasket for the plug it is a 18mm plug I think mitsu wanted alot for these gaskets.
spoulson
Well-known member
Tell me more about hot tanking. Where would I go for that? What exactly is the process?
GVR-4
Well-known member
This isn't in regard to hot tanking, but keep in mind the case is aluminum and some solvents will damage it.
dp
dp
spoulson
Well-known member
Tonight I started pulling gears off the shafts. I find that my Harbor Freight bearing separator really sucks. I think it's made of recycled mufflers.
Here's the progress and the damage:
This is a hell of a magnetic field around the trash magnet!
1st/2nd gearset removed from intermediate shaft.
This is your synchro. This is your synchro on drugs. And yes, 2nd gear grinded a lot. Notice the decorative brass shard on the gear.
This is the Harbor Freight 12t press.
Here's the problem:
The bearing separator has a pretty dull clamping edge so I sharpened it with my dremel. The metal was very soft, which is what causes the problem. The bearing busts off the rollers, leaving what you see here, and taking some chips off with it (at about 50mph). So I tried clamping the bearing separator around it and tried again, but this only continued to chip the edges.
So I think I need a better method or tool. What can someone suggest?
Here's the progress and the damage:
This is a hell of a magnetic field around the trash magnet!
1st/2nd gearset removed from intermediate shaft.
This is your synchro. This is your synchro on drugs. And yes, 2nd gear grinded a lot. Notice the decorative brass shard on the gear.
This is the Harbor Freight 12t press.
Here's the problem:
The bearing separator has a pretty dull clamping edge so I sharpened it with my dremel. The metal was very soft, which is what causes the problem. The bearing busts off the rollers, leaving what you see here, and taking some chips off with it (at about 50mph). So I tried clamping the bearing separator around it and tried again, but this only continued to chip the edges.
So I think I need a better method or tool. What can someone suggest?
Last edited:
Romanova
Well-known member
With the hot tanks we have at my work, you simply place the parts in it and set the timer. Then it sprays it with extremly hot water. You can add cleaners if you want. Usually if you run it with water for a few hours, it comes out pretty good.
GVR-4
Well-known member
I'm pretty sure you're supposed to put the separator on the back side of the bearing. Will it not fit? I'm still waiting on my separator to be delivered so I can begin pressing the gears/bearings off the shafts. I don't think my parts from TRE will be here in less than another week, so I'm not really in a big hurry.
dp
dp
spoulson
Well-known member
quote:Originally posted by GVR-4:
I'm pretty sure you're supposed to put the separator on the back side of the bearing. Will it not fit? I'm still waiting on my separator to be delivered so I can begin pressing the gears/bearings off the shafts. I don't think my parts from TRE will be here in less than another week, so I'm not really in a big hurry.That's what I did and it took out the roller cage that you see on the right and all the rollers fall out. I've been suggested to use a cut-off tool to cut about 80% through the inner race and either chisel or hammer it off.
These are on the ends of the shaft where you can't put the separator under a gear. You have zero clearance.
I'm pretty sure you're supposed to put the separator on the back side of the bearing. Will it not fit? I'm still waiting on my separator to be delivered so I can begin pressing the gears/bearings off the shafts. I don't think my parts from TRE will be here in less than another week, so I'm not really in a big hurry.That's what I did and it took out the roller cage that you see on the right and all the rollers fall out. I've been suggested to use a cut-off tool to cut about 80% through the inner race and either chisel or hammer it off.
These are on the ends of the shaft where you can't put the separator under a gear. You have zero clearance.
GVR-4
Well-known member
If that's the case, then a separator isn't gonna be much better than the puller I have.
Can you get the separator on the small end lip or is too much of it broken off from the rollers?
Keep us posted on your progress, Shawn.
dp
Can you get the separator on the small end lip or is too much of it broken off from the rollers?
Keep us posted on your progress, Shawn.
dp
Luke
Well-known member
quote:Originally posted by keydiver:
Yesss! FedEx just picked up my transmission, and its on its way to TRE. I'm getting the 4-spider diff too, the EVO forks, heavy duty synchros on 1,3,and 4, and the dual-sychro 2nd gear (of course). If there's any money left in the bank, I may get the higher 5th gear ratio. Anyone have any feedback on the 10% vs 25% change? I got a TRE rebuilt tranny with 10% taller 5th.
More than likely you will also have to change the end cover to the updated version to get it to work.
However, I love the 10% taller gear. Crusing on highway at 75mph is a comfortable 3K rpm.
I wouldn't get the 25% taller gear, as the gear is straight cut. Therefore, it is going to whine.
I also got double synchro 1st and 2nd. steel shift rail, evo shift forks, new synchros in all gears. It shifts very nice indeed, especially after about 500-1K miles break-in period.
Yesss! FedEx just picked up my transmission, and its on its way to TRE. I'm getting the 4-spider diff too, the EVO forks, heavy duty synchros on 1,3,and 4, and the dual-sychro 2nd gear (of course). If there's any money left in the bank, I may get the higher 5th gear ratio. Anyone have any feedback on the 10% vs 25% change? I got a TRE rebuilt tranny with 10% taller 5th.
More than likely you will also have to change the end cover to the updated version to get it to work.
However, I love the 10% taller gear. Crusing on highway at 75mph is a comfortable 3K rpm.
I wouldn't get the 25% taller gear, as the gear is straight cut. Therefore, it is going to whine.
I also got double synchro 1st and 2nd. steel shift rail, evo shift forks, new synchros in all gears. It shifts very nice indeed, especially after about 500-1K miles break-in period.
quote:Originally posted by spoulson:
quote:Originally posted by GVR-4:
I'm pretty sure you're supposed to put the separator on the back side of the bearing. Will it not fit? I'm still waiting on my separator to be delivered so I can begin pressing the gears/bearings off the shafts. I don't think my parts from TRE will be here in less than another week, so I'm not really in a big hurry.That's what I did and it took out the roller cage that you see on the right and all the rollers fall out. I've been suggested to use a cut-off tool to cut about 80% through the inner race and either chisel or hammer it off.
These are on the ends of the shaft where you can't put the separator under a gear. You have zero clearance. Two things for you:
Jon at TRE actually uses an impact hammer chisel to push some of the bearings off ( and also to split the cages and roller off some of them first), second, the bearing separator is supposed to go into the zero clearance between the gear and the bearing as you tighten it down. It is a wedge to drive the two parts apart. At least that is how I believe it is supposed to work. I used a dealer tool (borrowed) for mine.
quote:Originally posted by GVR-4:
I'm pretty sure you're supposed to put the separator on the back side of the bearing. Will it not fit? I'm still waiting on my separator to be delivered so I can begin pressing the gears/bearings off the shafts. I don't think my parts from TRE will be here in less than another week, so I'm not really in a big hurry.That's what I did and it took out the roller cage that you see on the right and all the rollers fall out. I've been suggested to use a cut-off tool to cut about 80% through the inner race and either chisel or hammer it off.
These are on the ends of the shaft where you can't put the separator under a gear. You have zero clearance. Two things for you:
Jon at TRE actually uses an impact hammer chisel to push some of the bearings off ( and also to split the cages and roller off some of them first), second, the bearing separator is supposed to go into the zero clearance between the gear and the bearing as you tighten it down. It is a wedge to drive the two parts apart. At least that is how I believe it is supposed to work. I used a dealer tool (borrowed) for mine.
Hey you house looks like mine with tranny parts all over the place. Check you shift shaft seal to see if it shows signs of leakage. Replace it now if it does you have to pull the trans apart to get to it again. I know because mine it apart again because of that. Also while you in there replace all the seal some of them i.e. the input shaft seal is only accessable from inside the tranny. When you go to put it back together tighten down the case to press in the diff and when you go to tighten the pain in the ass 36mm nuts use you foot to hold it so you can torque it without put it on it's side and any left over trans fluid get on the rtv and it leaks
don't ask how I know. And there is a groove in the input shaft where the one ball is behind the viscous coupling if you put two in it will hold the shaft to the visous coupling much tighter and it makes it feel more like a welded center diff. The nice thing is if you don't like it you can put the side cover off and take it out. Also when you put on the 5/reverse syncro's make sure you have the flat spots in it on the side with the wave washer or else the will lock the trans because there inside diameter is differn't. When you look on the vfaq the one on top doesn't have the flat spots don't ask how I know this either
.
spoulson
Well-known member
quote:Originally posted by iceman69510:
second, the bearing separator is supposed to go into the zero clearance between the gear and the bearing as you tighten it down. It is a wedge to drive the two parts apart. At least that is how I believe it is supposed to work. I used a dealer tool (borrowed) for mine. See, the problem is the cheap-o bearing separator I got from Harbor Freight is as soft as butter. Instead of getting underneath, it simply dents. I sharpen it with a dremel, same result when I try again. What I need is something made out of steel, not butter.
second, the bearing separator is supposed to go into the zero clearance between the gear and the bearing as you tighten it down. It is a wedge to drive the two parts apart. At least that is how I believe it is supposed to work. I used a dealer tool (borrowed) for mine. See, the problem is the cheap-o bearing separator I got from Harbor Freight is as soft as butter. Instead of getting underneath, it simply dents. I sharpen it with a dremel, same result when I try again. What I need is something made out of steel, not butter.
GVR-4
Well-known member
What has everyone's experience been in dealing with Jon Ripple at TRE? My crap's taking longer than he said and I haven't heard fom him. He's machining the center diff and a new input shaft for double synchro 1st and 2nd, so it's not a complete tranny, just parts. Anyone?
dp
dp
spoulson
Well-known member
I managed to get past the stuck roller bearing. Using a 3" pneumatic cut-off wheel I was able to make grooves on both sides so that the crappy bearing separator could grip it and they both finally came off.
Grooves
I hate you!
New parts from TRE
All for now.
Grooves
I hate you!
New parts from TRE
All for now.
Last edited:
Luke
Well-known member
quote:Originally posted by GVR-4:
What has everyone's experience been in dealing with Jon Ripple at TRE? My crap's taking longer than he said and I haven't heard fom him. He's machining the center diff and a new input shaft for double synchro 1st and 2nd, so it's not a complete tranny, just parts. Anyone?
dp I got my tranny rebuilt actually faster than his original quote.
He pretty much did the work for me in two days.
One day to take apart and let me know what went wrong.
Then, one more day to rebuild according to my choice of mods.
What has everyone's experience been in dealing with Jon Ripple at TRE? My crap's taking longer than he said and I haven't heard fom him. He's machining the center diff and a new input shaft for double synchro 1st and 2nd, so it's not a complete tranny, just parts. Anyone?
dp I got my tranny rebuilt actually faster than his original quote.
He pretty much did the work for me in two days.
One day to take apart and let me know what went wrong.
Then, one more day to rebuild according to my choice of mods.
Mine took at very very very long time. He quoted me 2 weeks. I got it back 3.5 months later AND he messed up the output shaft. Plus I had to keep calling and calling him to get it done. And he didn't include my ported manifold. That being said a new t-case fixed the output shaft prob (John did reemburse me for it and the manifold) and the tranny is great. I will *never* send it back to him though.
