My 91 GVR4 glove box lock cylinder is stuck locked - will not budge. Did not want to break the key so I stopped trying. Graphite did not help at all. Tried to get in by removing the bottom hinge screws, but that didn't work. Anybody else had this problem? Best I can think of is to drill out the lock cylinder. Any other ideas? Thanks.
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SmoothCustomer
Well-known member
Well that's no good. Take it to a lock smith if there isn't anything real important in there that you need right away. If they can't do anything they will probably just say "I can't do anything" and then you can be on your way to drill it out or what have you.
Take it to a Locksmith.
Eric beat me to it.
Eric beat me to it.
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atc250r
Staff member
That used to happen a lot on the 3000GT's back when I worked for Mitsu. We used to slide a hacksaw blade between the glovebox door and the dash then cut the striker off. Once you do that you can replace the parts without damaging anything.
John
John
BoostedAWD91
Well-known member
thats how mine is, i cant lock it.
Hertz
Staff member
You're using the wrong key.
We got a regular key and a valet key from the factory. The Valet key should not open the trunk or glovebox.
We got a regular key and a valet key from the factory. The Valet key should not open the trunk or glovebox.
^Bingo. Most of these cars have been sold so many times the original is long gone though.
BoostedAWD91
Well-known member
Quoting Hertz:
You're using the wrong key.
We got a regular key and a valet key from the factory. The Valet key should not open the trunk or glovebox.
maybe i dont have it but the one key i have starts the car, locks the doors and opens the trunk. the glovebox is the only thing it wont lock.
You're using the wrong key.
We got a regular key and a valet key from the factory. The Valet key should not open the trunk or glovebox.
maybe i dont have it but the one key i have starts the car, locks the doors and opens the trunk. the glovebox is the only thing it wont lock.
Wow! I am amazed by the fast responses. Thanks guys.
Can't get the car to a locksmith because of a blown timing belt. I had thought of the valet key question, but the key does open the trunk. However, in light of Boosted's response, who knows? The thing is I used the same key to lock it. Already tried flipping the key 180. I think I'll try the oil spray idea next. If that does not work I guess its either drill or hacksaw.
Can't get the car to a locksmith because of a blown timing belt. I had thought of the valet key question, but the key does open the trunk. However, in light of Boosted's response, who knows? The thing is I used the same key to lock it. Already tried flipping the key 180. I think I'll try the oil spray idea next. If that does not work I guess its either drill or hacksaw.
Make sure there is no load on the latch or striker mechanism when you try to turn it.
Luke
Well-known member
LuckyLager: I had the same issue with my glovebox. It turns out that my original key ( not valet key ) was somehow "worn out".
I went and have a new key recut ( strangely using this same "worn out" key as the template ). The newly recut key was able to unlock the glovebox. Maybe this would work for you also.
I went and have a new key recut ( strangely using this same "worn out" key as the template ). The newly recut key was able to unlock the glovebox. Maybe this would work for you also.
Spyke169
Well-known member
Another thing to try, dealerships can cut a you a key off the vin# so you aren't just copying the same worn out key
Thank you everyone. After reading the last message here, I contacted a very helpful parts guy at a local dealership. He said that, after years of use, the regular key gets worn down and will not open the glove box lock although it will open all other locks on the car. This is because, as glove box locks are almost never used, their cylinders remain essentially brand new and still need a new key, while the other lock cylinders have worn down along with the original key.
I therefore am going to chance it and get the key code from the dealer (have to drive there and present proof of ownership) and then pay a locksmith to get a new key made off the code. This requires special equipment and so costs more than the usual copying process. (Incidentally, the parts guy warned against using the new key in any lock but the glove box, as it might cause problems in the worn cylinders. So, I guess I'm gambling a few bucks basically for a one-time use of the key.)
If this works, its better than drilling for sure. And I'll get 5 bucks back when I return the cobalt bit I bought and I won't have to obtain a new lock cylinder.
Moral of the story? NEVER lock that glove box......
I therefore am going to chance it and get the key code from the dealer (have to drive there and present proof of ownership) and then pay a locksmith to get a new key made off the code. This requires special equipment and so costs more than the usual copying process. (Incidentally, the parts guy warned against using the new key in any lock but the glove box, as it might cause problems in the worn cylinders. So, I guess I'm gambling a few bucks basically for a one-time use of the key.)
If this works, its better than drilling for sure. And I'll get 5 bucks back when I return the cobalt bit I bought and I won't have to obtain a new lock cylinder.
Moral of the story? NEVER lock that glove box......
turbowop
Well-known member
I wonder if that's why my gas door wouldn't unlock with the key either? On both my cars. So I really didn't lose anything by putting a JDM keyless gas door on 1051 since the key wouldn't work anyway. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Hertz
Staff member
I'd try and make a copy of the key first, rather than jump through those hoops.
I agree, but I have copies already. Neither the originals or the copies work, alas.
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Success! I had a new key cut from code for $20 and it worked like a charm. Well worth the gamble.
Oh, and to save the trouble of going to the dealer to get the key code, if you have an original key, be aware it has the code stamped right on it. If I'd known that I could have saved myself a 30 mile round trip.
Thanks again everyone, especially Spyke169 and Luke who had the winning answers.
Oh, and to save the trouble of going to the dealer to get the key code, if you have an original key, be aware it has the code stamped right on it. If I'd known that I could have saved myself a 30 mile round trip.
Thanks again everyone, especially Spyke169 and Luke who had the winning answers.
Thought you guys might like to see the difference between a key newly cut from code and a copy made from the 18 year old used original.
