Fuel System Questions

[Polish]

Well in inevitable happened when I went to install my fuel pump. The outlet on the housing cracked so it needs replaced. However Dentsport is no longer making them (Even if they were I couldn't afford one now) and finding a rust free non-cracked GVR4 piece isn't easy or cheap either. So a friend suggested doing what he did with his fuel pump when his broke like mine. Just taking some high pressure Fuel Injection Hose and clamping onto the outlet of the pump. Then Clamping the other end to a barbed fitting with threads on the other end and go from there. Well that sounds like a plan except for one concern. The Walbro 190 I have has no lip on the outlet of the pump. On his the 3KGT VR4 pump it had a small lip which I am sure helped hold the hose on. I know this because I also have a 3KGT VR4 pump that I compared to my 190. Has anyone ever clamped hose on the end of a Walbro pump? What have you all done when your housing got messed up other than buy a new one.

Also I can't seem to find any AN fittings that convert to barb fittings for the bottom of my FPR. I was going to do all AN lines but after looking at the cost it's not in the cards right now. So I have the SX FPR bolted right off the rail and the return is a -8 AN fitting. Well I need to slide the stock rubber return line onto it. This is the closest thing I can find. While they call it an AN to barb fitting it doesn't look right. Why are there 2 lips on it? Are you supposed to clamp it twice or is it just how they design them.

 

[iceman69510]

So the regulator is 8AN female? That fitting *MAY* work, but it really should have an O-ring to seal.

That is not a standard barb, it is a "Pushlok" type barb, usually used with no clamp, and special pushlock style hose. Not sure I would trust it for what you are planning without the right hose. It seems to me that the hose ID required for that fitting will be much larger than you want for your fuel return hose, if I am picturing this correctly.

 

[Polish]

The regulator currently has a Male to Male -8 an fitting coming out of the bottom. It has a female -8 inlet on the bottom. I know a ton of you have AFPR's what did you guys use to attach the stock return to the AN fitting.

I am sure the stock hose is much smaller than -8 so I will probably have to get an adaptor to -6 so it will fit on the Barb fitting if I cant find one.

 

[iceman69510]

Maybe these will work:

Earls: 985068erl, 700167erl

Got to summitracing.com and put these numbers in the search box to see what they are.

 

[Polish]

I think this plus this plus this will do for the Return line. Thats 3 fittings though, it's to bad they just don't make a -8 Male to Barb fitting.

 

[iceman69510]

Why go up to a -10 just to drop back down again?

 

[Polish]

It's not. It's a -8 male to -6 male Reducer to a -6 female/-6 Female coupler to the -6 Male to Barb Fitting.

 

[iceman69510]

OK. The pn you posted 985081 is an 8 to 10 adapter. Was that just an example?

 

[JB]

if any of this can help you out, let me know. all -06AN.

 

[atc250r]

There was a repair for this on the VFAQ a couple of years ago when mine crapped out but I think its gone now. All you need is a piece of 5/16" fuel line (the parts store type thats got a pair of fittings on it already and is flared), some JB Weld, a drill, 5/16" bit, and the fitting off of your old line. The 5/16" line is the same size as the 8mm line that we have stock so cut one end off of the new line, remove the two american fittings, install the stock fitting that you pulled off of the rusted line, bend a 90* in the new line, drill the remains of the old line out of the sender, trim the new line to the right length, slide the new line through the hole, clamp it to the hose that is connected to the new pump inside the tank, and then blob on some JB Weld on the outside to keep it from leaking. I used a heat gun when I was done to let the JB Weld flow a little. Mine has been like that for a couple of years with no problems. When it broke I thought I was f'ed and would have to buy a new unit but that fix worked great. You can also tweak a 1G AWD TEL one to fit.

John

 

[JNR]

Here's what I did...



Cut off the POS, rusted tubing flush, welded a -06 AN (actually, it's referred to as a JIC connection, but close enough) to pipe thread fitting to the top of the fuel pump assembly and used an -06AN (again JIC) to metric adapter and hooked it up to the original hose...

Here's the final product...



crappy pic, but I put some POR-15 on the assembly and some paint (I soldered the ground afterward, so hence the quick paint)...doesn't leak and sure beats paying $$$ for a custom piece that may or may not work...

$10 later (I have a bunch of AN fittings and hose sitting around) I'm a happy camper /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

PS - I have (3) more pairs of these fittings left, if anybody is interested...

 

[Polish]

Quote:
OK. The pn you posted 985081 is an 8 to 10 adapter. Was that just an example?



Yeah just an example, I must have clicked the wrong adaptor.


Quote:
There was a repair for this on the VFAQ a couple of years ago when mine crapped out but I think its gone now. All you need is a piece of 5/16" fuel line (the parts store type thats got a pair of fittings on it already and is flared), some JB Weld, a drill, 5/16" bit, and the fitting off of your old line. The 5/16" line is the same size as the 8mm line that we have stock so cut one end off of the new line, remove the two american fittings, install the stock fitting that you pulled off of the rusted line, bend a 90* in the new line, drill the remains of the old line out of the sender, trim the new line to the right length, slide the new line through the hole, clamp it to the hose that is connected to the new pump inside the tank, and then blob on some JB Weld on the outside to keep it from leaking. I used a heat gun when I was done to let the JB Weld flow a little. Mine has been like that for a couple of years with no problems. When it broke I thought I was f'ed and would have to buy a new unit but that fix worked great. You can also tweak a 1G AWD TEL one to fit.

John



So you clamped a section of Rubber fuel line to the pump with no problems?

 

[atc250r]

A little off topic but is #6 going to be enough for a 500-600hp car? I'm going to upgrade my set up soon but I think #6 will be too small. Anyone have any solid facts on this?

John

 

[atc250r]

Our replies must have overlapped Stanford. I didn't use a clamped rubber hose except inside the tank where the Walbro pump is supposed to be clamped anyway. I really wish I could get the pics of the old VFAQ. I found it last time using the website that lets you search the net from a couple years ago but the pics were gone. Maybe if someone here knows Tom Stangl they can ask him for a copy of it. Its an excellent article.

John

 

[Polish]

So what did you do with the other end of the rubber hose thats clamped to the Walbro? Some sort of compression fitting on the hard line you have running through the Housing?

 

[atc250r]

It looks like this:

Except that instead of hooking to the original line it is hooked to my new generic line.

John

 

[Polish]

Ok, thats what mine is going to look like. I just wanted to make sure it was ok to do that.

 

[atc250r]

Yeah, since its in the tank, if it leaks a little from those clamps it won't be too big of a problem.

John

 

[joec]

More info on cutting the hard pipe and replacing it with fuel hose:
http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/gvr4_3000gtnt.html

Also, from the above site:
"If you need to use a piece of fuel hose inside your tank, be sure it is SAE J30R10 spec hose. That hose is high pressure fuel hose that was designed to be immersed in fuel. DO NOT use fuel hose that is designed for inline use only [SAE J30R9]. It will not survive inside the tank."

 

[Polish]

Thanks Guys. I have some high pressure hose already, I'll make sure it is the R10 and not R9 style.