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Whoa. Slow down. So the the wastegate actuator rod moves out as you apply pressure to it? If so, the wastegate is working correctly, and you have boost creep.
Please tell me your not serious about the computer saving your pistons from melting down due to too much boost. I hope your saying it "should" but you realize that it will not.
Buddy I think you need to do a little basic reading on how turbocharged vehicles work (particularly the turbo) and what effects your mods and future modifications will have. Even if you try to fix something, blasting the throttle is no way to win. I'm not trying to be mean and not saying don't ask for help once in a while but you need basics before jumping into anything.
Quoting thedsmguy:
Please tell me your not serious about the computer saving your pistons from melting down due to too much boost. I hope your saying it "should" but you realize that it will not.
Yes I'm saying it should
But understand that it will not
I was more of wondering if when you get an ems if you can impose fuel cut if boost goes as high as it did
I only drove the car around the block and wasn't full throttle the whole time.
I saw it was boosting that high and drove it for about 5 mins. then took it back I was terrified that I destroyed the car the whole time.
It wasn't untill this summer untill I started learning anything about cars all I knew is how to put water and oil in.
Sorry if I sound retarded.
I can only name probly about30-30 things on my car. I'm trying to learn as much as possible about it.
I searched my ass off to find the car
I think I'm off to a good start? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
One serious option, is to put a stock exhaust on for now. You seem to still have a lot of issues that have nothing to do with modifications. It might be good to put a stock exhaust on, thus eliminating the boost creep. Then you can focus on your standard maintenance issues you seem to have.
550cc injectors, 2g maf, fuel pump, take the turbo off and port the wastegate housing hole to match the valve, upgrade that wastegate valve port the f out of the wastegate side as well.
Were those all seperate ideas or would I have to do all of them?.
I've been reading the porting for over an hour now doesent porting it make it thinner so its easier to brake....
Seems like this is the best bet to due since it supports more power
As the stock exhaust would rob me of power I already have correct
I'm not planning on racing the car I plan on boost maybe 15lbs tops probably start with 8lbs.
I'd start by removing the actuator so the flapper is just, well... Flapping. See what happens with boost levels. if it still makes stupid boost remove the o2 housing & take a look at what's going on with the waste gate. Your car may have been set up to run an external & had the flapper welded shut at some point prior to you getting the car or something else may be hanging it up.
I took the car around the block and the car didn't build boost it built maybe 3lbs of boost and the car started sputtering as soon as it left vaccum it felt the same when the car has a boost leak.
Is the sputtering normal?
And I geuss th is means the wastegate flapper is not shut
Got the Waste gate Actuater hooked back up and the rod wouldent reach the flapper hinge so I had to hit the nipple of the waste gate actuater to get the rod to move out an inch so I could connect it to the wg flapper hinge.
I tried adjusting the rod length but it wouldent budge.
And when I touch the waste gat actuater with a compressor it barely moves at all isn't it supposed to open and close the hinge?..
Could the wga be forcing the wastegate closed because of the rods length
I think you are running out of travel with the wastegate actuator rod.
Is this a real MHI EVO3 16G? or ebay turbo? The reason I asked is because the real evo3 16G doesn't have adjustable wastegate rod like what you said yours have.
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