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FS: 1991 Galant VR-4, RS/Evo drivetrain; ***SOLD***


Well-known member
Apr 25, 2007
Marysville, WA
1991 Galant VR-4, 1951/2000. Nile black, non-sunroof. 186,000 miles on chassis. ABS and A/C have been removed. $3800 OBO.

<b>Sold for $3700.00</b>

Contact: 9four9 three 85 E39A, PM, or [email protected]
Parting the car out is not a possibility for me. It would require rental of a workspace/storage space. Without getting to far into it, i'll say that the main reason i'm selling the car is i'm not able to work on it where i live. For a while i thought i'd move, but i decided to cut the car loose instead.

BC Racing BR type coilovers installed at 183k.
Whiteline 22mm rear sway bar
Ultra Racing tower braces, front and rear
Front lower ball joints at ~160k
New Ingalls front inner and outer tie rods at ~183k
Rear outer tie-rods and boots at ~183k
Ingalls adjustable rear upper control arms
4 wheel alignment at ~183k thousand. Conservative camber settings at the moment.
Functional four wheel steering.

Rotora slotted front rotors.
Hawk HP+ front pads.
I-Rotors drilled/slotted rear rotors
Axxis semi-metallic rear pads
Techna-Fit 8 pc stainless brake lines.
New Centric master cylinder at ~174k
Passenger side parking brake cable replaced at 183k
Passenger side rear caliper replaced at ~170k
ABS started acting up so i disabled it. NO ABS!
At some point in the car’s life, the front calipers were painted red. It’s old and wearing off.

89 tail lamps
Carbon fiber vented JDM VR4-Evo hood. Very rare item. Only a few were produced. Clear coat is dying. I haven’t worried about it as i planned to respray the whole car Nile Black.
Sparco hood pins
VR4-Evo JDM front bumper with post facelift projector fogs. Both high and low fogs need to be wired, as do the front indicator lamps. Mounted with Curtis’ awesome custom aluminum brackets. I just imported this from Malaysia less than 2 months ago, cost me $900 bucks.
GVR4 summit white rear bumper. Needs paint, obviously.
89 Trunk lid. Sourced from a Galant LS in a junkyard. Needs paint.

WEDS Farmas DP-V, 17x7 +45, 17x8 +43. One center cap came off on the freeway. The other 3 will be included.
215/45/17 Fuzion HRI all season tires. Fronts inner tread blocks are worn and i would plan on replacing them within the next 5-10k miles. Rears have a ton of life.
Stock wheels will be included, with older Hankook Ventus RS-2 tires.

Stock rebuild at 141k miles with 2G pistons, BSE, fully blueprinted and balanced.
OEM MLS head gasket
3 angle valve job. Revised lifters.
Hyundai smooth style valve cover
Non-cruise throttle cable
NGK BR7Es plugs, 0.028”
NGK wires
1G themostat housing w/ OEM 180* T-Stat
1G DSM generic style aluminum radiator
SPAL #30102029 1360 CFM 12” puller fan on rear passenger side.
Generic 12” pusher fan on front driver’s side. Currently wired into stock A/C fan circuit. Switchable.
Saikou Michi dual tank catch can added to PCV system. Currently only one tank is being used. It is connected to the breather on the valve cover and then a port on the inlet pipe which provides a little vacuum.

A’PEXi Power Intake air filter/MAS adapter/Heat shield
Dejon custom inlet pipe with recirc tube and 2 extra ports for PCV and EVAP
2.5” aluminum charge piping
RRE Intercooler (HKS cast end tanks, Griffin 24x12x3” core)
Greddy RS BOV (recirculated)
HKS 2.5” throttle body elbow
Ported small 16g
Ported EVO III manifold
Swapped in a newer, cleaner upper heatshield and WG actuator recently.
Tubular 2.5” o2 housing with divorced WG section (recirc style), ceramic coated black
3” CMPE downpipe
3” CMPE HFC (3” CMPE Test pipe included)
3” CMPE cat back with Magnaflow muffler, single outlet into twin 2.5” Magnaflow tips

Engine Management/Fueling:
Socketed EPROM ECU w/ Keydiver Stage III chip - All stage 3 features, calibrated for 91 octane, 8.5:1 pistons, 11:1 target AFR, knock sum gauge, 8k rev limit, CEL shift light.
3G #482 MAS
Denso 560cc injectors (Evo)
Denso FD3S RX7 fuel pump (210lph @43psi @12v)
Blitz Dual SBC electronic boost controller, fitted quite stealthily in ashtray.

Other electrical:
GReddy 52mm electronic boost gauge in A pillar pod
MMCd datalogging software on Palm IIIc
Old skool A’PEXi turbo timer
OEM alternator
Odyssey PC680 mini battery in stock airbox location, 6 weeks old.
Aluminum GVR4 mini battery tray (from way back)

I’ve been using this car as a daily driver. I went through the stereo in April.
Re-wired entire system.
Sony head unit w/ CD and USB input/ iPod interface
Older Nakamichi and JBL amps are quoted as being high quality and in good shape by stereo shop, who recommended not to replace them.
Other new parts:
Addictive Audio ECS6 components.
Addictive Audio “Version 2” 12” woofer, mounted in custom box between rear shock towers.
Pioneer rear co-axials.
Also has Pioneer speakers in dash which are not needed, and therefore disconnected.

Drivetrain and related:
Galant VR4 RS-Evo transaxle model # W5M33-2-WQFK. Close ratio gearset, 5.4 final drive, front LSD, forged shift forks. Rebuilt by Jack’s Trans at ~153k
3.909 rear end with LSD from VR4 Evo. Factory 3 bolt rear axles and diff housing used. 4WS intact and functioning.
All of the above is my favorite part about this car. Will include spare VR4-Evo close ratio transaxle and matching transfer case. Pending i’m at or very close to my asking price. Due to the extremely limited availability of these parts, i don’t see any point in splitting them up. I really want to keep all this stuff together.

ACT 2100 clutch kit w/ sprung hub full face street disc @ 172k
RRE 12lb chromoly flywheel @ 172k
RRE stainless braided clutch line
Centric clutch master cylinder at ~172k
New OEM slave at ~172k
New, revised OEM clutch fork and pivot ball @ 172k
Pedal assembly rebuilt with new OEM parts at ~172k
Driveshaft rebuilt, painted, and balanced by Performance Drivelines in Mission Viejo, CA at ~183k.
New OEM driveshaft carrier bearings at ~183k
Torque Solutions carrier bearing solid bushings at ~183k.
Front axles inspected at 183k. Both were found to be in good shape, and were re-booted at this time. That front LSD necessitates the use of a special inner axle cup, which obviously is in place.
1G DSM shifter, leather boot.

Engine consumes a lot of oil, although it still makes good power. The amount of oil consumed seems to be directly related to how you drive it. More boost = more oil burned. It has been this way for the 6 years and 20k miles that i have been with the car. It also has a leak on the front, roughly 2-4 drops per night.

If i get my asking price, i will throw in a freshly honed shortblock with 0.020” over 2G pistons, freshly polished un-cut crank, new OEM bearings, ARP fasteners, surfaced to an RA of ~14 microinches. All cylinder bores checked for out of round and taper. Thoroughly measured. I also had the mains align honed and all diameters were verified with a dial bore gauge. I also magnafluxed it and used a sonic tester to check cylinder wall thickness. I have all the measurements written down. I also painted the block. Not show quality, but a nice touch up.

Also included would be a freshly machined head. Surfaced to an RA of 8 microinches. 3 angle valve job, new mangangese bronze guides. I already re-faced a set of OEM valves. Springs, retainers, new Viton rubber valve seals, stock cams all included. New revised version lifters also included. ARP head studs and OEM MLS HG also included.

Interior rear of the front seats is gone. I still have the rear seat belts, but they are not installed. Original carpet is there.
No Headliner, no sun visors, no dome light.
Dash is pulling up in the typical spot near the passenger side defroster.
One of the bolts for the lower heat shield snapped, the lower half of which remains in place.
1 heat shield bolt broken off in manifold.
Temp sensor connectors at thermostat housing re-wired with spade connectors. So far no problems, but this was a temporary solution.
Boost creep. WGA is connected directly to port on compressor outlet pipe. Briefly holds at 1kg/cm2 (~14.5psi), and works its way up to 1.3-1.4 kg/cm2 (~19-21psi)

Rust hole on floor pan near driver’s feet ~ 2” x 1”
Rust in front wheel wheels. Identical on each side. Pics soon!
Car obviously needs paint. While parked outside under a cover, someone hit the car on the rear driver's side corner. The quarter panel is still straight, however the area near the tail light was pushed in roughly 0.75" and would need to be pulled straight. The original trunk lid was bent, hence the replacement. I can include the stock spoiler. The bumper was cracked, again hence the replacement.
The clear on the roof is gone. There is some surface rust in one area where the paint cracked. I will get pics of this as well.
Passenger side rear dog leg is missing. I have a spare i can throw in.

Car passed CA smog legally, on its own, on 10/4/13.
The car drives well. In the last year i have put a lot into turning it into a good driver.
I’ve got the base idle set a bit high ~950rpm, so when i’m running both fans, both stereo amps, all the lamps, HVAC stuff, the alternator gets plenty of spin.
There's some noise from the drivetrain during decel. Haven't been able to track it down yet.
Last edited:


Well-known member
Jan 1, 2012
Quoting ApexHunter:
Car passed CA smog legally, on its own, on 10/4/13.

In Cali, that's almost worth $3,800 alone. Price is too low IMO. Sad you have to get rid if it though man. I know the feeling of living somewhere you can work on your car, and it sucks. The staggered wheels are unique. GLWS, I bet it goes quick.
Last edited:


Well-known member
Apr 25, 2007
Marysville, WA
^Thanks Craig. Edit: OOPS, i mean Brett. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif Had you confused with LIV4PSI

Pic of the spare Evo spec transaxle below. Note that this is an Evo spec close ratio box, but has an open front diff. If you end up swapping in this transaxle at some point, you'll want to pull the diff from the box in the car and swap it over.

Additionally, the front right inner axle cup/stub are SPECIFIC to the LSD. It had to be special ordered from Mitsu JP and was supplied by Norco Mitsubishi back in ~'04. You cannot use a standard US VR4/DSM inner axle cup.

Last edited:


Staff member
Apr 18, 2008
Arlington, Tx
This one is very tempting.


Well-known member
Nov 19, 2009
So many parts I want, but I understand the space issue. I hope the sale goes well!


Well-known member
Jan 9, 2005
So Cal.
Man! I miss my old vr4, I would have pick this up if I hadn't just bought another honda.

I remember you from the accord wagon club. Still have the wagon?

Anyway good luck with the sale.


Well-known member
Apr 25, 2007
Marysville, WA
HA! Nice and thanks!! I miss that wagon, such a great car. My friend has it now.

While i'm at it, i'll mention that i added the Saikou Michi "S1-DC3 Dual" custom dual tank catch can to the list. Custom made for a -10 breather off the VC to the inlet pipe for one tank, and the other tank is intended to go between the PCV and the intake mani. All inlets/outlets oriented to facilitate this.


Staff member
Apr 18, 2008
Arlington, Tx
That was a great deal...congrats on the sale and tell that guy to case he parts it out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif


Well-known member
Apr 25, 2007
Marysville, WA
Thanks! I'm going to miss that car. Will have another when it make sense.

He's lurking on here...i'm sure he and 1951 will pop up soon /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
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