"fixing" crankwalk and now advice on my motor build

There are a couple of other things I wanted to change out anyway which is why I was considering pulling the motor such as the head Gasket, port my oil pump, and possibly the clutch. Is there a way to check the crank to see if it is the culprit? I guess there has to be, but can I do it?

 

[Barnes]

IMO just take out the driver side fender splash shield so you can get clear access to the crank pulley. Push the pulley with your foot firmly, don't push it off the jack or whatever you have it on. You will be pushing the crank towards the flywheel side of the engine. Put your dial caliper on and zero it. Then press the clutch. This will push the crank balk the other way. Now you can see if you are outta spec. This is a bit crude, but if it is as bad as you say, this should confirm the obvious. Hell, if it is bad enough, you can actually see the crank move. If you can see it move when you press the clutch (someone else pressing) it is *really* dead.

 

Quoting 92Galant926:
Im not really trying to figure out how to test for crankwalk. I pretty confident it crankwalked, but I have a dial indicator so ill check it out after work and get a reading. My question is more along the lines of what I would need to do in order to fix this while the motor is out of the car.



Ill test for CW when I get home with a dial indicator.

 

Here is My Crankwalk status. pushed the crank all the way to the passengers side. Set the dial indicator to "0". Pushed the clutch in with the pedal, and this is what I got..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif..... Pushed it back to the passengers side and it ruturned about "5" past "0" so add 5 to that number and there is my crank thrust measured very crudely.





I also did a leakdown test and the results are posted in this thread.

Leak Down Test Thread


Here is the spark plug from cylinder 2

 

[Terry Posten]

Quoting BarnesMobile:
I recommend doing this mod. It is super easy. Just unplug the clutch switch that is depressed when you press the clutch (there are two clutch switchs). Just gotta be careful from now on that your car isn't in gear. This should help prevent crankwalk on cars with heavy clutches. The most wear is at startup when you have no oil pressure. This combined with the load from a heavy clutch creates a situation that can create significant wear. Disabling this switch prevents this wear during startup.



I also do this.

And whoever rebiult your motor (actually assembled the bottom end), did they thrust the crank properly into the thrust bearing prior to and while torquing down the mains? If the crank was not bolted in properly, walking will result faster. Even more so if your starting the car with a heavy clutch pressed in against the thrust bearing with no oil pressure.

 

Not 100% sure on the specifics on how the crank was installed last time. Ill be doing it myself this time though. How do you suggest thrusting the crank while installing it? A prybar between the crank and the block?

 

So it looks like the motor is coming out in the near future here. A few things I would like to discuss...

I am going mainly for an "economy" rebuild. Hoping to fix this crankwalking business and run around 12lbs of boost on a 14b or a 16g. I already have eagle rods, JE pistons, a rebuilt head, and timing components that have about 20,000 miles on them.

Im planning on buying:
a new clutch
rod and main bearings
piston rings
head gasket/gasket set


My questions:
1) What do you think about the Exedy OEM clutches?
2) What type of head gasket should I go with?
3) How do I check the crank while it is apart to be sure it is not causing the crankwalking issue?

Any answers, advice, comments are welcomed. thanks

 

[464/2K]

Exedy clutches are really good. We just put one in a 350z and it felt/grabbed real nice.
For head gasket, go with a mits Multi layer. Also if you plan on turning up the boost, get some arps. Your stock head bolts are stressed, dont take the chance.

If you need anything let me know, we get really good prices on most stuff.

 

I have ARP's in there already... forgot to put that in there.

I am shopping around for all of the items I just listed so let me know what you can get me, or give me a link.

The pistons are .20in over

the rods and crank are both .25mm under

Thanks

 

[IncorpoRatedX]

hmm, i thought this was a thread fund raising to get the board member "crankwalk" "fixed" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

^ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

I wish this was a joke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[SouthCaliVR4]

Quoting Alpha Male:
hmm, i thought this was a thread fund raising to get the board member "crankwalk" "fixed" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif



While the actual thread topic may not be a joking mater, that is funny I don't care who you are!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

anyone have comments that are back on topic?



Quoting 92Galant926:

Im planning on buying:
a new clutch
rod and main bearings
piston rings
head gasket/gasket set


My questions:
1) What do you think about the Exedy OEM clutches?
2) What type of head gasket should I go with?
3) How do I check the crank while it is apart to be sure it is not causing the crankwalking issue?

Any answers, advice, comments are welcomed. thanks