First Time Build: 995/1000

[desant78]

Hello gvr4.org

I purchased 995/1000 for $3000 in late December, and picked a larger intercooler, DNP exhaust manifold and FP3065 for an extra $500…didn’t need the parts but how could I say no to that price?

When I bought the car, I picked it up with a slight brake issue. The slight brake issue was the passenger side brakeline was never attached to the strut, and rubbed against the tire until the line burst. Fixed the issue and drove the car for one weekend before I started tearing it apart.



This is the only picture I have of the car before the build, which is on the side of the road because I blew off an I.C. pipe and had to wait for a friend to come by with tools. This is the gf(who secretly supports this) having a blast as my new venture makes it ten feet down the road and leaves us stranded for 40 mins.

After this weekend, on a ride to my house the clutch started slipping real bad. I have been buying parts for a while, and being a newb always wanted to build for two reasons

1. peace of mind, to start with a strong platform
2. the learning expierence, I’m a hands on learning, and felt it was time to do some serious learning.

I rent a barn that was built in the mid 1950’s, which is now surrounded by a housing development. I have friends that when they were children (I’m 23) the barn was in the middle of an empty field that they farmed.





It's just enough space for what I am doing, and beats working in the rain.

So that is the background on me and the build, and the plan is

New Timing belt and components
Balance Shaft elimination
Fix oil Leak (pictures and explanation will follow)
Fix torn CV boats
ABS Delete
New IC piping and new IC
ACT 2600 and StreetLite Flywheel
FP Race Exhaust Manifold
Cyclone Intake Manifold
Evo III 16g
KeyDriver Stage 3 Chip
Caps replaced in ECU
New Tie Rods
Revised Lifters
Wideband
Oil Pressure Gauge

A compression test was between 153 and 158 across all four.

 

[desant78]

So I got some equipment and much to my surprise I got the engine out!

Picture of engine out

So the old Mitsubishi tradition held true, and found problems that were unknown to me.

1. transfer case is missing drain plug and has been damaged by flywheel.



2 transmission was missing a bolt on the bottom, which I assume caused this crack. Is this repairable with some jb weld? Or is it best to get a news trans? I think jb weld is a bad idea, but a few people have suggested it.



3. I noticed this when I the car home, this bad boy had a 13g turbo…cranked to 18psi. which is exactly why I thought the car was slow.

4. Oil leak is worse than I thought, so I hope all the new gaskets will help. The oil pan didn’t have a gasket! Just RTV! Is this a big “no no” or am I just naïve?





5. Removed the timing components, front case, and head (as per the technical manual).

6. Any opinions on my cylinder head and pistons? I think it’s odd how some pistons are darker from what I assume is oil and others are a light color. Also the valves seems very rough, is this normal?







7. Purhcased some paint and simple green, and painted the block.



So that brings me up to date, opinions, suggestions, pointers are all welcome. I don’t really have any friends in the car game, so I am solely doing this build based on what I have learned from the inter-webs.


thanks in advance!

 

[jmorri15]

2)transmission was missing a bolt on the bottom, which I assume caused this crack. Is this repairable with some jb weld? Or is it best to get a news trans? I think jb weld is a bad idea, but a few people have suggested it.
I would not use jb weld on a trans like that. you should be able to pick up a bell housing from someone who blew up a gear or two and simply throw that on.
4)Oil leak is worse than I thought, so I hope all the new gaskets will help. The oil pan didn’t have a gasket! Just RTV! Is this a big “no no” or am I just naïve?
Quite a few factory service manuels call for rtv as the only thing on the oil pan, off hand i do not remember for the 4g63s but i know the Nissan ka24de calls for straight rtv. you should be fine with just rtv if it is done correctly.
6) those valves dont look awful. did you do a compression and leakdown test before ripping into the block?

 

[desant78]

^thanks for the feedback, I did do a compression test and was around 153 to 158 across all four, so I was in the factory specs.

After doing some research, and considering the engine seemed fine before I pulled it, my plan is to sea-foam the engine to get rid of the carbon build up since I am not removing the pistons.

this weekend will be shot, but next week I hope to get the headgasket installed (with ARP hardware) and finish the B.S. delete and install the front case and OFH gaskets (awaiting these gaskets)

any tips/suggetions outside of what the service manual says to do?

 

[desant78]

after reading the vfaq many times, I am curious how everyone handles this issue.

I understand that I will have a massive oil leak if I do not address this. Vfaq solution calls for installing the old bearing (lame) or find a shorter bolt. I am assuming the seal created by the short bolt head plugging the hole, correct me if I am wrong.

I am going to try and use a smaller bolt, and use RTV as suggested by vfaq, just wondering if anyone else has any personal suggestions on how to handle this.

thanks!

Picture courtesy of Vfaq

 

[desant78]

So this build has been going slow...I have been triple checking what I do with research before I do much of anything in order improve my odds of success.

I installed the new OEM head gasket, ARP head studs, replacement b.s. bearings.

Tonight, I prepped the oil pump so I can install the front case tomorrow. I read that you should pack the oil pump with bearing grease. Did I do this correctly? I have never done this so any help is appreciated.



sorry about the crappy picture, I had to use the camera on my laptop.

Also in the service manual I had issues finding a torque for the oil pump. I found torque specs for the 1.8L oil pump and torque for the front case of the 2.0L, which I might use if I can't find a torque.

thanks in advance!

 

[123abc]

Personally I would use assembly lube, not bearing grease but I'm not too experienced with engine rebuilding.

 

[Noobsauce]

I've used grease, vaseline,assm lube. All work good.

 

[desant78]

Here's an update:


Got the Stub shaft and Oil Pump Cover installed. I could not find ANYWHERE a torque spec, so I decided that it was a "firm" torque. correct me if I'm wrong.





Installed front case and OFH. Used a little RTV to hold the gasket in place, which worked like a charm. Got the tip via vfaq, and made working alone so much easier. Installed all the timing components, ready for the timing belt now.


Off 1662, got a "Because Race Car" fuel rail, which I'll be honest looks better, so I want to use. Anyone have tips for plugging the gauge? I want to remove it since I feel it will be a source of failure, but don't know if just a bolt is any different. I almost want a bolt with an o-ring, but I might be over thinking this. I'll take any suggestions on how to handle this.











I got the cyclone intake manifold together, got great gaskets from JNZ tuning. I have a call out to all the other cyclone owners, I am having serious issues torquing/reaching a few bolts. Anyone run into this problem? I got a long piece of all thread and cut it to length. Suggestions on reaching these bolts? I can get to them, just the nut is so close to the manifold that the socket can't go over it.




This stud has made my life Hell for 3 days now. I did not notice it(lesson learned), and am paying for it now. With the head off, I could used a mill to easy remove it. the previous owner had two small holes drilled, and the surface is not flat. it is about 2-3 threads below the surface of the head, and I am having trouble drilling it out by hand. The plan was an easy out and I have even set up a drill press set up, but I can't for the life of me drill into the middle of the stud to use the easy-out. With that in mind and looking at the condition of the threads, I want to drill it out and tap it for an M10 x 1.5 stud, which will require a 8.5mm drill bit. Suggestion on this? Anyone know the SAE drill size that would work instead of a 8.5mm drill bit? Or is this a bad idea and I need to find a 8.5mm bit.


thanks in advance! I truly appreciate the help

 

[desant78]

Quoting Noobsauce:
I've used grease, vaseline,assm lube. All work good.



thanks for the help!

 

[desant78]

Update: upon research Im planning on using a helicoil.

 

[RedTwo]

Mismatched cam gears. Interesting....

 

[desant78]

^i never noticed until now. Should I change this? I don't see how it would affect anything.

 

[Noobsauce]

my cars the same way.

 

[BadVr4]

try using a reverse thread drill bit on the broken bolt. they have worked great for me in the past and you shouldn't have to use a heli-coil afterwards.

 

[mitsuturbo]

Try the reverse bit.

Dont use a helicoil. Just tap it out for the larger (2g style) stud and put it in there. I do this to all the 1g heads i come across anyhow. Helps keep the gasket sealed a lot better, and prevents breakage like you've got there.

Also, oil pans dont use gaskets on our cars. ONLY use the grey permatex RTV for your engine. This includes the oil pan. This is the same thing the mitsu dealership techs use.

I hope that stub shaft you have for the BSEK has an oil groove in it. If it doesn't get a different one. EDIT: i can see in the photo, it looks like one of the "good" ones.

A short bolt there in the front case is a good idea.

It's also best practice to at least take the balance shaft out of the front of the engine, knock the bearings out, turn them 180 degrees, put them back in, and put a freezeplug with permatex in the old hole so nothing will leak out.

 

[desant78]

^thanks for the tip, I will try the reverse drill bit if not, I'll go with the tapping the bolt to an M10 (which I believe is the 2g head).

I Should also note that both front BS bearings were removed and replaced with new bearings, 180 degrees from the original position.

thanks for the feedback!

 

[desant78]

Ok guys, I had been very busy lately helping out friends and family, but now I'm focused trying to make it to East Coast MOD. As of Saturday at about 430am, the engine was finally back in the car. I am hoping to finish the IC piping and possible new water pump (since I was a fool) before friday to start the car friday night.

Any tips for starting a car with all the new stuff I have? Esp concerned about

1. new composite head gasket
2. new arp head studs
3. new exhaust manifold.

Plan is to prime the motor with oil by pulling the MPI fuse and spark plugs. Let the motor crank and hopefully this will prime the motor. Then I will start the car, let it warm up (run for 5 min), then perform an oil change. After that I will slowly and gently begin the 500 mile break in period for the clutch. I have never done this before, so any tips or re-torquing anything let me know, or suggestions for the break in period of the clutch.


thanks again!

 

[DynastyLCD]

Sal, make sure you re-torque all the head studs to spec after the first heat cycle. also, i always re-check torque of the exhaust manifold studs, and the exhaust manifold to turbo bolts. i like to do those after the first drive.

good luck brother!!!

 

[LIV4PSI]

Quoting desant78:

So the old Mitsubishi tradition held true, and found problems that were unknown to me.



/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif It is a tradition


First time I've check the build out. Great job for being a first build! Good luck getting it fired up.