Finished my cop setup

Well thanks to all you who posted anything about building COP setups (especially curtis for the wiring diagram) i have finished mine and it worked without a problem. Heres some pics for you all





Also i did cut my coils down to fit flush and i know some of you were wondering about that so what i did was pull the coil out of the rubber boot, then take out the spring(mine are the spring style), i had to cut approx 5/8" to make mine sit flush, you will also have to cut the springsi cut some off each end, but most off the top as thats where i took the rubber out.

 

[boostx]

this should be added to the How To and Info Archive info to curits link mods

i was taking to a dsm guy that has a 10sec 1g and he said that the cop works fine up to 8k rpm after that this car brakes up , he swap back to the stock setup and he hits 10k rpm no problem .
Has anyone else have experience this problem

 

[atc250r]

When I built my COP it would break up under boost at higher RPM's. I used NSX coils and it was definitely wired right, I reversed the polarity and it got a whole lot worse. At part throttle and idle the car ran noticeably better but WOT it would crap out. I went back to the stock set up that has worked for a million other DSMer's. If I get bored I'll fool with it again one day.

John

 

so far at 15psi on my big16 it hasnt so much as hiccupped, but thats not that much boost in my opinion.

 

what kind of gap were you trying to run when experiencing problems?

 

[atc250r]

Not much. I'm using NGK 7's and I run them pretty tight (.020") since I run 25-26psi on pump so IMHO the small gap makes it easier for the ignition sytem to function and helps prevent knock. It works for me so anyone who wants to say it doesn't is welcome to come for a knock free 25psi 3rd gear pull sometime. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

John

 

[boostx]

Quote:
When I built my COP it would break up under boost at higher RPM's. I used NSX coils and it was definitely wired right, I reversed the polarity and it got a whole lot worse. At part throttle and idle the car ran noticeably better but WOT it would crap out. I went back to the stock set up that has worked for a million other DSMer's. If I get bored I'll fool with it again one day.

John



john at what RPM's was yours breaking up at

 

[atc250r]

Ya know, I don't really remember. I would guess around 5,000. It was more dependent on boost than on rpm.

John

 

[Hertz]

Any stats on the NSX coils that could compare to the others? Were you the only one using those?

 

yea .020 should be small enuf, must be spark blowout, or not a strong enuf spark, let me find you a pic i saw of a guy that had intrepid coils

 

ok this is off dsmtuners i believe



Looks like plenty of strong spark but who knows under those kinds of pressures

 

[atc250r]

Quote:
Any stats on the NSX coils that could compare to the others? Were you the only one using those?



I'm not sure what kind of stats you'd want Ryan. I believe KingGalant used them successfully but he may have used the pre-OBD2 ones which only had 2 pins. The ones I have are 3 pin but the 3rd is normally hooked up to the NSX's "Misfire Detection Unit". I wonder if I didn't use thick enough wire in the harness I made. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

John

 

[curtis]

It could be that the resistance in the springs in the boots. The springs measure a 6 where the aluminum rods with 2 springs measure less than 2 and the aluminum rod with just one spring measures down less than 1. I've wanted to find some copper rod and machine them so one rod slides into the other with a spring inside the hole. The resistivity of copper is much less than aluminum but aluminum is about 10 times better than steel. This could be the problem that some of you are having because Its not a gap issue because mine are gaped up about .035 or .040. But I'm running the 4 pronged bosch plugs.

 

[curtis]

One more thing for the guys running springs and wanting aluminum rods go to home depot to the metal section rack. A hack saw and a file is all you need but remember you can't just run the rod you have to have a spring because if you cut to fit perfect you could crack a plug when the aluminum rod expands.

 

yea thanks for the info curtis, thats good to know the resistances, ill think about converting to the rod in the near future, maybe ill even fire up the lathe and make some real fancy ones

 

[JNR]

How about a copper rod/spring? Or, better yet, silver!

Fwiw, I ran my COP setup on a long roadtrip (~1200 miles) without any issues, even though the car was not running right (separate issue)...These were the 'ol Dodge coils. I was/am real happy with my setup and definitely worth it, imo (I bought the coils cheap, but had to make my own plugs/harnesses and have 'scrap' metal/hardware laying around.

 

i am looking into finding copper stock to make the rods quickly and easily, would anyone be interested in getting a set as well if i get the stock and everything, unfortunatly i have no clue what it will cost, but i would guess that it will be spendy if i dont want to do much machining