Factory Speakers Ohm Rating?

[rez]

Does anyone know what the front (door & dash) speakers are rated at, or if there are any aftermarket solutions that would allow running all upgraded front speakers without having to rewire the speakers to an external amp?

Ideally, I would like to find aftermarket speakers rated the same as the factory ones for a simple upgrade. I like having four speakers up front and just want a sound quality upgrade, not a boomin' system. I'm not fully opposed to rewiring with an aftermarket amp, I'm just wanting to keep it simple. I'm running an ordinary sony head unit with upgraded rear speakers and factory fronts.

Hit me with your suggestions.

 

[misterfixit]

all 4ohm, no?

Rich

 

[rez]

When I was searching I found a couple of posts that said you can't just drop in 4ohm speakers in the dash and doors or you will most likely blow your head unit. Another said to run a power amp that can handle a 2ohm load. So my guess is they are not 4ohm. I could be wrong.

Anyone else?

 

[atc250r]

Yeah, they are 8 ohm so that when two are run in parallel you end up with a 4 ohm load. You're best bet would be to get pair of good speakers for the doors and leave it at that. The other option is to get a set of components (I believe the doors take 6 1/2") that come with a crossover, put the door speakers in with the stock wiring, run the low/mid off the crossover into the stock connector and run a seperate pair of wires to the tweeters which you'd place in the dash where the stock 3.5" speakers were.

John

 

Put a non polarized capacitor (stinger part# sbass4 or "bass blocker") inline with the positive speaker leads on your dash speakers. This will cause the head unit to only "see" the 2 ohm load at higher frequencies, and won't cause any trouble.

 

[iceman69510]

I'm not an audiophile either, but I found a great sound improvement replacing the doors (5.25") first. Course it didn't help that they were basically deteriorated to the point of dust when I took them out and touched them. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[rez]

Quote:
Put a non polarized capacitor (stinger part# sbass4 or "bass blocker") inline with the positive speaker leads on your dash speakers. This will cause the head unit to only "see" the 2 ohm load at higher frequencies, and won't cause any trouble.



I really like this idea as long as your positive it won't cause any problems. Thanks for the suggestions guys!

 

[Armitage]

I replaced the door speakers and the rear deck speakers but completely removed the dash speakers. I used all the factory wiring. Is there a built-in crossover in the front speaker wiring? I've never gotten good sound out of my front speakers but perhaps it's just because of the placement in the doors... Using an aftermarket head unit of course...

 

[Rausch]

you should run new wires to the front speakers straight to the head unit. i believe the factory wiring seperates the signal for the fronts, but i'm not sure how....you may not be getting full signal to those speakers.
edit: it looks like both fronts are tied together for each side. i wonder if the wiring still passes through the factory amplifier? i would imagine it would not if the factory radio is out. but i don't know exactly how it's wired, other that the din cable that is supposed to go the the amp...

 

Quote:
Quote:
Put a non polarized capacitor (stinger part# sbass4 or "bass blocker") inline with the positive speaker leads on your dash speakers. This will cause the head unit to only "see" the 2 ohm load at higher frequencies, and won't cause any trouble.



I really like this idea as long as your positive it won't cause any problems. Thanks for the suggestions guys!



It won't cause any problems. I have worked in car audio for over 10 years.

 

[rez]

^Awesome, thanks man!