Anyone have any recommendations for getting these suckers out? I tried using a drill-in extractor and the damn thing broken when I was trying to back it out. That's my first problem. My second problem is the bottom right stud broke off in the block when I was trying to back it out. Normally I would just drill it and extract it but I can't get my drill on it. This project just got exponentially more complicated didn't it? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.
- Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.
ercp98
Well-known member
look in the how to section. some one solved this by welding a bolt to the broken stud. good luck.
I did do a couple of searches in there yesterday to no avail. I guess my jedi how to section searching skills are a fail...I definetely would not be able to do any welding in my current situation. The studs that are sticking out I think shouldn't be a problem but im just looking to see what people have had the most success with. The one that broke off in the block im a little worried about as I can't get a drill on it.
ercp98
Well-known member
when this happened to me, i removed the radiator to get more room and leverage for the drill.
if it is the stud by the timing belt, you can also remove the power steering pump and bracket to gain more room
so you can get a drill to the stud. you can also try a 90 degree adapter for the drill so it does not require
so much room. good luck.
not the welding one i was looking for.
click
here it is.
click
if it is the stud by the timing belt, you can also remove the power steering pump and bracket to gain more room
so you can get a drill to the stud. you can also try a 90 degree adapter for the drill so it does not require
so much room. good luck.
not the welding one i was looking for.
click
here it is.
click
Last edited:
ercp98
Well-known member
sometimes it is just quicker to go through the how to pages. but with me i basically know where things are in the how to section since i always look things up.
So I ended up getting 3 of the 4 bad ones out last night using the stud extractor I listed. Kind of funky to get used to using but once you get going it works nicely. I guess I will hit the store today and see if I can get my hands on some drill bits and maybe an extractor to try and get the last stud out that is below the surface. It's going to be a toughie though since its the bottom right stud and its going to be hard to get any tools on it. Maybe I will get lucky and it will come right out though...It could happen right? LOL
CarRacer
Well-known member
I know Toybreaker uses left handed drill bits when he removes broken bolts and such. Then tries the extractor. I don't have to tell you but exhaust studs are extremely tough from all of the heat cycling in conjunction with the two different metals.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Well I am officially hating this thing right now...I spent about two hours tonight trying to get this stud out with no luck whatsoever. I tried going small to big, tried tapping first and then drilling, I even got the dremel out and tried to make a hole that way. I cannot get any play into the stud. Here's a couple of pics of what im dealing with. If anyone has any other experience let me know. If there's a tool or something im missing im all ears. I don't have any welding equipment or I definetely would have tried that by now. Is there such thing as mobile welding setups? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif Done for the night anyway...I dont suppose the car would just be fine without this stud? LOL
TylerAdamson
Well-known member
You could completely drill out the stud then drill the head and use a time-sert. In my opinion its the best method and is also what Mitsubishi used when they encountered such a thing.
I'm game. Any recommendations on a good drill bit to use? I cannot get any drill bits I have to even start a hole in those things. I'm guessing im just using the wrong ones but...
TylerAdamson
Well-known member
Something with a carbide tip should do the trick.
PJGross
Well-known member
^^ I just looked up "time-sert". They look nice.
What depth in mm should be used? I can measure, just figured someone might have the part # or measurements handy.
-PJ
What depth in mm should be used? I can measure, just figured someone might have the part # or measurements handy.
-PJ
TylerAdamson
Well-known member
They kid you want is the m10x1.5 or 1.25 I can't remember which it is off the top of my head. The kit includes everything you need to do the job.
Muskrat
Well-known member
Exhaust studs are M8x1.25 thread pitch.
10 mm depth should do.
Helicoils would work as well, and are about 1/3 the price of timeserts. I've never had any issues using them, besides inserting the really small ones (binding up). Big ones like these are a cinch.
In fact I just helicoiled 4 stud holes on my head last weekend.
If you're drilling through the stud, A carbide drill bit will def do it, if you cna find them. May need more than 1. Cobalt bits work well, but it may take a few.
10 mm depth should do.
Helicoils would work as well, and are about 1/3 the price of timeserts. I've never had any issues using them, besides inserting the really small ones (binding up). Big ones like these are a cinch.
In fact I just helicoiled 4 stud holes on my head last weekend.
If you're drilling through the stud, A carbide drill bit will def do it, if you cna find them. May need more than 1. Cobalt bits work well, but it may take a few.
Last edited:
The stock exhaust studs are 8 x 1.25. but later (7 bolt?) the heads were changed to use 10 x 1.25 on just the end two studs. Warping of the exhaust manifolds was putting too much stress on the smaller size and breaking them. I redo my heads to use the 10mm in those location when I have them off the car.
drilling through the stud is the easy part. just make sure it's dead center as much as possible and straight, obviously.
trying to drill out an extractor that is broken off is near impossible, the only way to get an extractor out is to either
FIND a drill bit EVEN HARDER than the extractor (good luck with that, not cheap) or break/fracture the extractor up even more and remove it in pieces using a hard tempered center punch and a hammer and picking the pieces out with a dental tool. been there done that.
now keep in mind, there should be a little dead-space in the head under the studs. when I drill my studs out in the past I make sure to drill completely through the stud but not into the head. this will relieve as much of the pressure on the threads as you can. I then use another drill bit that almost cuts the backside of the threads of the stud itself, almost creating a helicoil out of the broken stud. if you can drill a stud out in this method, you shouldn't even need an easy out to remove what's left, the right sized tap will remove what's left.
trying to drill out an extractor that is broken off is near impossible, the only way to get an extractor out is to either
FIND a drill bit EVEN HARDER than the extractor (good luck with that, not cheap) or break/fracture the extractor up even more and remove it in pieces using a hard tempered center punch and a hammer and picking the pieces out with a dental tool. been there done that.
now keep in mind, there should be a little dead-space in the head under the studs. when I drill my studs out in the past I make sure to drill completely through the stud but not into the head. this will relieve as much of the pressure on the threads as you can. I then use another drill bit that almost cuts the backside of the threads of the stud itself, almost creating a helicoil out of the broken stud. if you can drill a stud out in this method, you shouldn't even need an easy out to remove what's left, the right sized tap will remove what's left.
Well I officially have failed at getting this stud out...any of the local crew wanna take a trip to Pawtucket, RI? I would be happy to cover pizza, beer, etc!! LOL /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Here's how it looks now. I think my failures are a combination of the wrong drill bits and lack of space to drill in...but im sure someone can get it out!
^ you can get it out... good bits and good positioning will get it done. It sounds like you may be lacking on both, and you truly do need both.
Buy good bits (in several sizes, not just one), and take out the radiator if it'll help your angle - you'll be glad when you're done with it.
Don't forget to keep penetrant in it - this probably seems like a moot point now, but it can still help.
Buy good bits (in several sizes, not just one), and take out the radiator if it'll help your angle - you'll be glad when you're done with it.
Don't forget to keep penetrant in it - this probably seems like a moot point now, but it can still help.
