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engine/trans mount replacement

paul j

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
241
Location
Lone Tree, CO
How long will the rubber in the mounts last? Mine are not torn but they are 31 years old. Is it smart to replace while engine is out? How flexible should the LH roll stopper attached to the firewall be? When I put a screwdriver in bolt hole and move it horizonitally it is very flexible.
 
Last edited:

Dashnizzle

Active member
Joined
Jun 7, 2021
Messages
34
Location
Great Falls, MT
Yes they are usually flexible.. and cracked. You can get prothane (CLICK) Inserts for them to strengthen them and especially if you have the motor out you’ll want to do something. You will hear people say this increases cabin vibrations.

Some people just fill them with window weld as well.
 

paul j

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
241
Location
Lone Tree, CO
Thanks. Mine are not even cracked or soft, just the rear is flexible. But it is stupid not to do a rejuvenation since the access is so easy now.
 

paul j

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
241
Location
Lone Tree, CO
Where did you get the front (drivers L shape) one from? Did you repair them or are they new? It appears front needs turbo specific as well as rear. It appears the trans mount is the same for all except E38A automatic.
 
Last edited:

Bstiles

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2021
Messages
15
Location
Indianapolis
Window weld fill ftw. Not as harsh as poly inserts, but much better than factory new. And only $20. Don't be messy with it tho lol
 

paul j

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
241
Location
Lone Tree, CO
I bought the transaxle mount that is attached to the body which is MB436541 from RockAuto. The bracket looks the same as the one on the car but the bushing seems to be 180 degrees off what mine is. The attachment hole is off center and the old one has the hole at the bottom while the new one is closer to the top. I checked pics online and they all show the hole positioned at top. Are VR4's at top or bottom? Does anybody know why this is? Is the only solution in order to have a new one in mine is to press out the bushing and rotate it?
 

paul j

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
241
Location
Lone Tree, CO
Window weld fill ftw. Not as harsh as poly inserts, but much better than factory new. And only $20. Don't be messy with it tho lol
3M Windo Weld appears to be a caulk. How do you utilize it when repairing the mount?
 

Bstiles

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2021
Messages
15
Location
Indianapolis
You fill the mount flush with the window weld. Let it dry 24hrs before putting weight on them. It does come in a caulk-tube yes.
 

paul j

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
241
Location
Lone Tree, CO
For my rear roll stopper I removed the original bushing, removed the bushing from RockAuto (not for VR4) mount they sent and had new one pressed in - $60- and they said it was very hard getting it pressed in.
I still need coupling bolts for front and rear roll stoppers to arms from block.
 

boostme

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2013
Messages
78
Location
Crete, IL
Cheapest way is probably the Turbo Tom Garage way... cutting board cut into pieces and you stuff it. Then you can buy your wife a new one. It's a win win!

That will stiffen them up. 2nd method is the window weld,which also is a drive shaft mod. I think the window weld will probably be a better choice of the two.. 3rd option is the prothane.. but the car will shake!

4th if ya really want a OEM feel, would be to buy all OEM mounts. That's if they are available.

I had balance shafts and prothane mounts and my galant still shaked lol
 

paul j

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
241
Location
Lone Tree, CO
My balance shafts have been removed. I now have prothane mount for front engine and the other are rubber. I thought this might minimize the shaking. My trans mount is still usable so I kept it. Polly rear roll came with Prothane kit but I opted for the rubber swap with RockAuto mount they sent. Hole was not able to be inserted at 12 o'clock but a little off. I used Rock front roll unit they sent as it is the same as original but good rubber. Where are the holes located in stock mounts as some of mine had crunched so not sure where holes are located.

According to the attached info the front roll mount is all we have to be concerned about if correct stock mounts are used but what is correct in relation to connecting hole location? I was wondering if the rear roll info for awd w auto should apply to VR4. I finally decided not to be concerned with that spec but am concerned about correct location of the connector hole locations..

Is there quite a lot of wiggle room when installing the engine? Seems like all poly mounts would be touchy having no give. Is it best to attach rear roll arm after rest of mounts are connected?

roll 1.JPG

roll 2.JPG

roll 3.JPG
 
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