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Engine rebuild questions.

birdman24

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Messages
139
Location
Cleveland, Ohio
So my motor has developed a rod knock and since it already had a few other problems I figured it would be better to just rebuild it. I have never rebuilt a motor so this is a learning experience. I want to run forged .20 over 9:1 Wiseco, Eagle H-beams, Complete oem gasket set, Arp everything, Acl rod and main bearings. I've read that with a 9:1 compression detonation will occur with high boost, does anyone have any suggestions for ways to combat the detonation?
Does this set up look okay? Am I missing anything?

I currently have a E3 16g, chipped ecu, 550's, upgraded fuel pump, full 3in exhaust, safc, and 2g mani. I'm working on getting an afpr, 660's, c.o.p, and Ecmlink v3. I'm looking to make 400 to 500 whp, is this set up over board for the numbers that I would like to make? I'm considering making a tubular manifold with an external gate and buying an hx-35 or 20g but that is not in the near future. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Terence
 
Last edited:

DynastyLCD

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2006
Messages
761
Location
Harwinton, CT
take your time, build it right. find a good, trusted, reputable machine shop, make sure the head and block are both shaved, have the machine shop cut the rings and install the pistons/rods in the cylinders for you. you should have your pistons & rods before you drop the block off, as the piston to wall clearance is very important, and they will need the pistons youll be using to measure this. call wiseco, you can speak to a tech about ring gaps as they will be different per application, and the rings are file to fit. use an uncut mitsubishi crank, DO NOT cut your crank as it will take away the factory nitriding. ARP main studs arent always neccesary, but if you go that route, the block will need to be align honed. it may be in your best interest to have the machine shop fully assemble the engine for you if youre not mechanically knowledgable.

building the cylinder head is a whole 'nother ball game. be sure to use SS valves, good valve springs, and good cams, however youll need to research cams yourself, with your personal goals in mind to find a conclusion there.

most important rule: DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON ANY ENGINE PARTS.

the increased detonation from a 9.0 setup can be countered by methanol injection, higher octane fuel, conservative timing, etc. thats up to you how youd like to handle it.

c.o.p. from my understanding is a waste unless you have an ignition module (ARC-2, MSD) and you will need more than a 660 injector to make 400-500 whp. if you plan on purchasing V3 (great idea) run something along the lines of a 1000cc injector as you can tune it out to run like stock, and its always nice to know the extra fuel is there if you need it. you will need the HX-35 or 20g to make the power you desire. another option is to look into the forced performance line of turbos, especially the FP30 series if you have the money to spend. tubular manifolds are also an option, not a neccesity. i know of a local DSM'er who made 760 awhp on a ported 2g manifold a few years back.

if i could start over... ross .020 9.0:1 pistons, crower rods, factory uncut crank, ACL tri-metal bearings, ARP L19 studs, permatorque HG, HKS 272 cams, 1mm over SS valves, kiggly beehive springs.

everyones got their opinions on an ideal setup... this is just my .02.

good luck, remember, build it right, or build it twice. and have fun with it!
 

Dan D

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2001
Messages
1,164
Location
Brownsburg, IN
I'm running that piston rod combination now (wiseco 9:1 on eagles). You will need a way to modify your timing curves to avoid detonation. I use an ostrich and a hex editor + tuner pro, but I'm a nerd so you may not like that way. You can ecm-link for ease of use ( but more $). Currently, I have my base timing retarded about 1.5-2 degrees to keep the low-mid range happy and at the top of my maps, I'm runing 15-16 degrees (23psi on an e316g with 93 pump). The stock maps would have me knocking up a storm trying to shoot for 20+ degrees timing.
 

alansupra94

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 3, 2010
Messages
1,909
Location
Wayne,NJ
Well normally with DS-MAP and Ostrich 2.0, when you go to tune it, you turn the timing maps down a little bit, get the fuel trims correct and then raise the timing until you see knock.
 

"Does this set up look okay? Am I missing anything?"
It looks like you've got all the main pieces down, depending on how bad the rod knock is, your crankshaft may need to be turned or replaced. Also I wouldn't recommend those 9:1 pistons, the compression ratio is awfully high for a pump gas car, If you plan to go 1000cc+ fuel injectors with E85 I would definately say go for those pistons, but if it's gonna be strictly a pump gas car it's gonna be a pain to tune the knock out. I would recommend the Wiseco 8.3:1 if thats the brand you're set on.


I'm looking to make 400 to 500 whp, is this set up over board for the numbers that I would like to make?
Actually that setup is under board, 400whp can be done on an E3 16g but, that is completely maxed out typically. I would recommend something larger such as the 20g or hx35 you had listed. Also 660cc injectors aren't gonna cut it, at 90% IDC 660cc's run out of fuel at 350 flywheel horsepower (http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php4). And just in my opinion, don't waste your money on a c.o.p. setup unless you plan to buy some kind of after market CDI, such as the Dyna-arc2 box. Without it, your ignition system doesn't gain anything.
 

birdman24

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Messages
139
Location
Cleveland, Ohio
Ok guys thanks for the great info. After three days of headache and a couple of hiccups the engine is finally out. I'm not gonna have any time until next weekend to actually tear it apart, so I'll up date you all when I can get to it. Sorry no pics, I must have pissed mother nature off because every time I thought about taking a picture things came down from the sky lol.
 
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