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Engine Harness Rewire

Muskrat

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 13, 2004
Messages
2,107
Location
Lexington, KY
I'm starting to think about rewiring my engine harness. The wiring on my car is very brittle, has been spliced into, and hacked by previous owners, and just looks like crap. I've already had one failure due to a broken wire, and I suspect some, if not all, of my current trouble could be related to bad wiring.

That said, I'm starting to do my homework on what this will take. My first question is this: does anyone know if the engine harness is still available from Mitsu, and if so, how much do they cost? (I read somewhere a 92 is cheaper than a 91, anyone know why?) I don't have access to CAPS right now, if someone could look the part numbers up for me I'd appreciate it as well.

Secondly, has anyone attempted to do a complete re-wire of their harness before? I'd appreciate any notes you may have taken, or any advise you'd like to give me.

I want to do this right, so I have some specific things I would like to know:

1) How many different wire colors are there in the harness? I plan to try and keep the wire colors as close to stock as I can, so I'll need to know this before I purchase any of my wire.

2)Connectors. Are there any places where I can purchase the specific connectors I will need for this? (especially new pins, if I reuse the old connectors) Are there any connectors on the original harness that can't be reused? (by this I mean with new wire in them, not used with a pigtail of the old wire)

I think that's it for now. I'll post more questions as I come up with them.
 
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No the harness is no longer available through Mitsu, even if it was I believe it was approx. $800 bux.

I haven't re-wired the whole thing but I done plenty of repair on mine, which is actually the car's second engine harness because the original baked in the fire. It is going to be a major PITA to go from clip to clip replacing, I would suggest doing more of a "refresh" then a rewire. Take sections of the harness and remove the old tape and loom, inspect it and take it from there. Some sections will just need a fresh tape & loom job, other sections might need some serious surgery.

I've done a few sections of my harness, its not hard, just tedious. I dont know what you do for work or anything but when I do mine I take out every size of loom and a roll of electrical tape and make all the pieces specifically for that section I'm working on. Doing it in sections also makes the overall project a little less intimidating. I dont know what kind of availability/convenience to various sizes of loom you have but it makes it a lot easier. (It also give you an opportunity to re-route some of those now useless plugs for emissions equipment & such.) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I have another section or two of mine before I've redone the whole thing.
 
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Iceman has new pins for mitsu connectors. I do want to do this because I myself have hacked off alot of the harness that Im not using, and hate it being in my engine bay. The CAS and the TPS sensors seem to be the hardest to find and I have not done that yet. I have a write up in the how to section on where to get the injector clips and rewire those. Since I have an EMS I could care less about 2 of the 3 coolant temp sensors, and the o2 sensor also(atleast the stock wiring of it).
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
I've done five or six complete harness repair/replacements on customers cars.

It's not fun, but done right, it will eliminate ever having to deal with wiring issues again. A basted, hacked, or otherwise molested wiring harness will make a car so unreliable and hard to tune accurately that it will take all the fun out of owning the car.

On the vr4's it's actually pretty easy to peel it open and do individual wire repairs for the coolant temp, tps and cas. You can score the donor harness sections at a boneyard for next to nothing. I like to pull the harness section from non turbo cars, as they don't seem to be as heat damaged.

Just cut out the damaged section out, measure out your replacement section, strip the ends, match the colors up, twist the wires together neatly, solder them up, apply the heatshrink...(oh, snap, cut the wire, throw some heatshrink on the wire...then.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif)

Austin has found a source for the fuel injector connectors, and even did a how to on them.
I used them on my last project, and it turned out really nicely.

I didn't know there was a source for the others.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif

The only ones that provides a real challenge are the o2 and knock sensor harnesses. They are shielded, to prevent inductive noise, and it's hard to splice the shielding.

Austin, I've got a bunch of connectors and harness sections, (left over from the talon from hell /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif) Let me know what you need, and I'll get it to you.
 
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Mmm Im not quite that fiesty yet. Maybe next winter lol. I Want to strip the car down and pull the abs harness and ECU if/when I get the cage.
 

14u2nV

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Messages
9,398
Location
Agency/St. Joe, MO
Regular galant harnesses may still be available new, and the only differences I've noticed are fog lights, couple mass wires, bcs wires (not needed with b-controller), knock sensor (galant GS has knock sensor, so the wiring is there on it), and abs crap (get rid of it anyway). Def worth thinking about if you want it to be new.
 

Boostin21

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Joined
Nov 24, 2004
Messages
1,173
Location
Wisconsin, USA
harness' ARE available new. and yes about $800.
 

lunchbox

Well-known member
Joined
May 29, 2005
Messages
1,140
Location
Mil-walk-it-out, WI
Quote:
Regular galant harnesses may still be available new, and the only differences I've noticed are fog lights, couple mass wires, bcs wires (not needed with b-controller), knock sensor (galant GS has knock sensor, so the wiring is there on it), and abs crap (get rid of it anyway). Def worth thinking about if you want it to be new.



Those are actually two separate harnesses (harnii?) Fog lights and ABS is run from the front chassis harness. MAS wires, BCS wiring, and knock sensor are run from the engine harness.
 

slugsgomoo

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Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Messages
3,750
Location
Tacoma, WA
Quote:
harness' ARE available new. and yes about $800.


is it sick that i want to buy a brand new one, take it apart, eliminate all the worthless bits i don't need and *then* put it in the car. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif
 

Couldn't tell you the difference (if there is any) but the '92 PN is MB875167 and a couple hundred bucks cheaper.
 

V8EATER

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 19, 2003
Messages
2,172
Location
Independence, MO
Find a good used one in a car someone is parting out, and install that. Or, rewire the old one entirely. Sure enough, you'll replace half of the harness, and the half that you didn't fix will break. I chased wiring issues for 4 years before installing a good used harness. Definitely the easier way to go.
 

Quote:
harness' ARE available new. and yes about $800.


What dealership in the United States said they could get you one??!? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif Monthes of looking for a brand new harness yielded nothing.
 
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14u2nV

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Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Messages
9,398
Location
Agency/St. Joe, MO
Yeah, I know they are two different, I was just stating what is different in the whole front end.
 

Boostin21

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2004
Messages
1,173
Location
Wisconsin, USA
Quote:
Quote:
harness' ARE available new. and yes about $800.


What dealership in the United States said they could get you one??!? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif Monthes of looking for a brand new harness yielded nothing.



first call to the one closest to me. renner mitsubishi, i asked if they had it, the lady found it for me, and said $800 something dollars.
 

Quote:
You can score the donor harness sections at a boneyard for next to nothing. I like to pull the harness section from non turbo cars, as they don't seem to be as heat damaged.



Exactly what I was going to say! Tom sent me one from a newer A/T car, so it had lots of extra wires in it I just removed from the loom, but it was in MINT condition compared to the fully-baked one under my hood! All the wires looked like new and were extremely flexible. The one he got me was from like a 1994 Eclipse GS NT, so it had the same 2.0 DOHC, same TPS, same coilpack, transistor, etc. It was pretty much plug-and-play, and fixed all my wiring issues. As someone else said, its not really that hard of a job to splice it into your existing harness, just tedious. I soldered every connection and shrink wrapped it.
 

VRfoo

Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2013
Messages
7
Location
Vancouver,WA
not to beat the dead horse but im about to do some rewiring of my own...not sure how far yet but what i need to know is there a specific year na 1g that is more plug and play than others? my maf wiring looks good so i wasnt going to touch those...but the cas, 3 temp sensors, injectors, tps...basically whats wrapped around the motor is crusty with some broken/open wires...are people replacing the whole loom up to the firewall (all splices at the firewall and make provisions for the extra wires for na harness)or just the individual plugs coming off the loom(ie:injector wires/plugs)? or maybe repin the ecu plugs?
 

89Mirageman

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Joined
Jul 5, 2006
Messages
2,502
Location
Stantonsburg, NC
Sent you a pm VRfoo, I have a mint 94 talon 2.0 DOHC engine harness that I was planning to use on my Summit project but decided to stay SOHC so I won't be needing it now.
 
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