The Authoritative Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Dual Rear Swaybar Mod

Now this is the real bargain approach. What you do is to parallel another sway bar with the original. While that might seem like way overkill, it isn’t necessarily.

Take car that runs an OEM 20mm rear sway bar. A bigger Rear bar will keep our car sitting flatter, providing better traction.

Suppose You don't have access to an after market thicker bar, but what if we add a second 20mm bar to the Rear? All other things being equal (which they aren’t), that would double the Rear sway bar stiffness.

So how do you add a second sway bar? The exact approach depends on how the sway bar is mounted but one method (which I did) involves cutting off the mounting ends of the second bar and then clamping it to the original. Strong clamps can be easily gained if you buy a whole bunch of original sway bar mounts (I used 93 Galant GLS mounts) – they’ll have the right strength and also come with D-rubbers to suit the sway bar diameter. All you’ll need in addition are some high tensile nuts and bolts... and even including the sway bar, the total of that lot can be under fifty bucks!

Here’s how I did it:

1. Go to a wrecker and obtain a second standard rear sway bar. Compare it to another standard bar to check it’s not bent, and make sure it’s not rusty or otherwise stuffed.

2. Buy eight (yep, eight!) sway bar mounts and rubber bushes (In fact I used ten!). These don’t have to be from the same make and model of car, but make sure the rubber bush is for approximately the same size bar (eg. within a few millimeters). These rubber bushes can get chewed-out over time, so inspect the rubber before spending the cash.



3. Hold the new sway bar up against the original and work out how the two are to be attached. A couple of approaches can be taken but easiest is to do as is shown here on my pictures, you have to bring off the exhaust pipes and loose the rear end screws to bring them down a little and make room for the installation.


4. Each clamp is made by using a pair of sway bar mounts bolted together, mounting faces of one clamp against the mounting faces of the other. The original rubber bushes are retained but the bar no longer swivels within them. To join the clamps make sure that you use high tensile bolts.

5. The original sway bar is most easily shortened by being cut with a friction saw. Shorten the arms only by the minimum amount to provide clearance to the original suspension mounts. If you shorten the arms too much, you’ll find it hard to retain enough space for adequate clamping. The greater the distance between the clamps on each side, the better will be the security of the system (I use another two for a fifth clamp on the center). Again check that nothing touches at full bump and rebound.



The Results was Awesome! I don't have access to the after market 26mm bar to do the comparison but comparing to the OEM one and taking the costs to the account, I will say, That was really Awesome, eliminating nearly all of the huge under steering our cars have...

Have fun fast cornering /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Polish

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Messages
8,936
Location
NE, IN
Agreed ^.

Cool idea.
 

Rausch

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2004
Messages
12,049
Location
Cleveland, OH
interesting.....and pretty damn creative i might add... good thinkin. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

rheckert

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 4, 2004
Messages
4,115
Location
Indianola, Iowa
A ture Galant owner right there. Well done. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
 

Sweet idea. Hmmm... I wonder what else I can make better by putting twice as many of?

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

CP

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2004
Messages
8,938
Location
West Simsbury, CT
Quote:
Suppose You don't have access to an after market thicker bar, but what if we add a second 20mm bar to the Rear? All other things being equal (which they aren’t), that would double the Rear sway bar stiffness.



I'm no swaybar expert, but I believe that increasing the thickness of the bar increases the roll resistance proportionally rather than equally. Your application is much different than anything I've heard of before, so this may not apply in your case.

Scorll down to Factors that Determine Sway Bar Stiffness.
 

skivittlerjimb

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 20, 2003
Messages
1,440
Location
Danville, CA
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif

Clunks and clearance would be what I'd be worried about now. Make sure you check the tightness of those clamp bolts regularly. Otherwise, pretty cool idea.

-Jim B.
280/1000
1432/2000
 

curtis

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif

Weld the bolts to one another and never worry again.
 

curtis

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
One other thing I wonder if Mark...AKA "Fogdarter" ever thought of this....For the Neebees he's the reason they build the 26mm bar... we lost Mark a few years back /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif.
 

About the stiffness, It is so simple, I did not change the diameter of the bar! of you change the diameter then the Spring multiplier will get calculated by:

(x^4)/(y^4)*100 = Percentage of the stiffness Change
which x is the new diameter and y is the old one...

but what if you simply parallel the springs? the multiplier will get doubled (The Springs rules from school /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif )

Here I do not change the diameter, I simply parallel the springs!

And About making the room, I have my rear steering removed so there were plenty of room down there, I simply put the new bar on top on the old one and it clears so well//

Glad that you guys liked it, I have learned a lot from you there, this is nothing comparing ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Last edited by a moderator:

That is correct. To get 2x stiffness from a single bar, increase the bar diameter by (2)^(0.25)=1.18, or 1.18x diameter. but if you can't get a larger bar, 2x roll bar = 2x stiffness.
Mike R.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Top