Dripping oil from lower hydraulic tensioner bolt

[turbowop]

If you're leaking that bad I'm sure the timing belt has been compromised with oil. Anytime one of the seals on the front of the motor leaks, oil gets flung all over the place behind the cover. I replaced my timing belt about 10k miles ago due to the oil pump seal leaking and getting oil on the belt. I replaced the belt and the oil pump and front crank seal. Lucky me, a week ago I notice more oil leaking and I ended up having to replace the cam seals last night as well as install another new timing belt. FAwk. Learn from me. Find the leak and fix it...then replace the belt and every seal on the front of the motor while you're in there.

 

[yeti]

So I tore down all the pulleys and got the timimg cover off.and stil can't find the leak. Its not the bsek. Can oil leak from behind the idler pully or can oil leak from the head? I started the car abou 3 times and could pinpoint the leak I thought it was a few bolts so I rtv'd em and put them back in. Oil is leaking from behind the crankshaft sprocket but I can't see a crack in the oil pump cover and can't tell if the oil is coming from there up top or behind the crankshaft sprocket.

I was litterally out there from 5am until 7 pm in the dark

 

[yeti]

Also my car runs like sh*t now like it doesent build boost but isn't letting me boost at all and acts like a messed up maf could this be a clogged fuel pump sock also idles horribly and if I punch it at a idle it will either stall or be fall on its face then rev any ideas

 

[raptorWagon]

If it's coming out from behind the crank pulley or sprocket, good chance it's a main seal.

 

[yeti]

But its coming from the side like there's a crack on the housing maybe what's required for the main seal my friend continues to tell me I need to drop the crank and I really don't think so I just remove the timing belt loossen all the bolts on the oil pump cover. Remove water pump all pulleys andthen oil pump sprocket and crank shaft sprocket the pry cover off and replace all seals.

I might just replace every seal except for HG and cam seals on that side of the motor, but is the above statement correct for removal of cover and can the oil pump be removed easily after the covers off?

 

[turbowop]

Just replace all those seals. Do the cam seals, oil pump seal and front crank seal. They are all easily replaceable once the sprockets are removed. You don't need to pull the whole front cover, just the sprockets.

 

[yeti]

s the front crank seal a front main seal?

Also when going to take my timing belt off I lined up all the tic marks and the two on the cams were squared and I had a retractable magnet in piston 1 and was at tdc and the oil pump sprocket was at 5 o clock instead of being lined up, and then when the crank sprocket and oil pump sprocket were lined up to there marks the came marks were at 2 o clock does this mean my mechanical timing is off? This is the man thing that stops me from taking those sprockets off should I rotate without belt on so that marks line up I'm afraid this will cause destructive knocking?

Also what's the symptoms of a car with a jumped tooth but not bending valves? Becuause after I put everything back together I can't make it past 3k rpms it fells like the maf is blown but no CEL I'm going to do a BLT tommarow

Should I change the oil pump cover as well just to be sure there's no crack in it I can't see one but want to be sure or should I do the seals fire her up and watch for leaks?

Sorry for all the Q's I'm going to be doing the seals this sunday so trying to get it all squared

 

[turbowop]

The front crank seal is the "main" seal.

The front case cover doesn't just get cracks in it for no reason. At least not in my experience. Your leak is most likely a seal, so yes I would replace them all and watch for leaks afterward.

You need to find somebody local to you that understands how the timing belt should be lined up and set so that they can either show you the proper way to do it or at least check your work, because it sounds like you're in over your head.

And try to work on your spelling and grammar. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif Your questions are painful to read. Using a phone is no excuse either because I can make perfectly legible posts using my BlackBerry just fine.

 

[pauleyman]

Quote:
Also when going to take my timing belt off I lined up all the tic marks and the two on the cams were squared and I had a retractable magnet in piston 1 and was at tdc and the oil pump sprocket was at 5 o clock instead of being lined up, and then when the crank sprocket and oil pump sprocket were lined up to there marks the came marks were at 2 o clock does this mean my mechanical timing is off? This is the man thing that stops me from taking those sprockets off should I rotate without belt on so that marks line up I'm afraid this will cause destructive knocking?



The timing marks don't line up with every rotation of the crank. Only every 5 times. Keep rotating the crank. All 5 marks should line up within 5 rotations of the crank. If it doesn't your marks are off. If you have no balance shafts the oil pump mark doesn't matter.

 

[Galantvr4559]

I had a similar but just as nasty oil leak as u and it came out to be ofh gasket, front crank seal and balance shaft seal. Replaced all and all is good.

 

[yeti]

Sorry for the punctuation and grammar

I know the marks don't line up every rotation of the crank. I have the BSEK so the oil pump sprocket doesn't matter?

 

[yeti]

Asked local dsm mechanic to reset timing he wants 100 after ive pulled timing cover and all is that normal price?
Also he said front main and oil pump sprocket seal are pressed in before oil pump case. He said I have to pull oil pump to do those seals
Is this correct

 

[turbowop]

Run away from that moron. Far, far away.

I can thread a timing belt and tension it in probably 10 minutes. I wouldn't charge $100 for that...unless I really didn't like the person. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif And those seals ARE NOT pressed in from the back. I assure you, they install from the front.

 

[Galantvr4559]

That guy is just jacking you around. Midas might charge 100 bucks. Lol midas sucks. Hell $50 is still to much. You already did half the work.

 

[strokin4dr]

I agree. That is too much just to set the timing.
It sounds like you had the timing off a tooth or two for it to not be building boost correctly. Usually the engine doesnt want to rev properly and falls on its face at higher rpms too if the timing is off slightly. Ask me how I know...

 

[yeti]

God damn setting timing and swapping belt is EASY. I did that today Along with spin the oil pump with a drill while the belt was off and found what I thought was all my leaks.
The only thing dripping was the lower bolt on the hydraulic tensioner was dumping oil, I put rtv with high temp thread locker on it, put it in and couldent see ANY more leaks.
So I put on my new timing belt and was done, get to the gas station and I'm still dripping oil and my belt is soaked GOD DAMN.

Could the rtv and thread locker have melted when got to operating temp. Has any one else had this problem? ( I'm using rtv good to 720degrees and thread locker good til 450)

Looks like I'm tearing her down on sunday again.

 

[yeti]

Does spinning the oil pump with a drill make enough oil pressure to simulate the car running?

 

[dmj]

Hate to say this but you will have to take off the oil pump housing and replace the gasket as neither of the tensioner bolts runs into any oil passages . There is inverted boomerang shaped oil passage cast into the block just above the lower tensioner bolt. Your oil pump gasket may be compromised in this area allowing oil to seep through to the bolt.

 

[yeti]

That's the best picture I've seen yet thanks,everyone's been telling me that and I've been really confused cause its clearly leaking.

I've heard I can get some pipe dope in there or liquid teflon? I'm going to try that before I remove the front case.