E-prom, scmeeeprom, I can get a cavalier ecu to run your car,...sorta... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
Caveat Emptor indeed! It's a bit of a jungle out there. One of the best things you can do is to research the part numbers
here ( thanks, Steve /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif)
I'd rather pay a premium price for a premium piece, then troubleshoot a single cylinder miss, or other ecu related problem.
The electrolytic fluid that leaks from the caps does some really major damage to the components and traces on the board, and much of it is not visible. Capillary action will draw it under the surface mount components, and the acid will continue to cause problems long after the majority of the visible spooge is removed, and the caps replaced.
The potential range of problems with a cap and dash ecu "repair" is mind boggling. Everything from no starts, to flame-outs, and vexing intermittent misfires can be related to acid damage in the ecu, and some of these problems won't show untill months, or even years later.
If you start with a virgin board, and have a knowlegable technician replace the caps and/or socket the ecu, you're good to go. It is a small price to pay for
never having another ecu related problem.