Did I kill my tranny again?

[maxash0775]

*UPDATE*

This has gone from a relatively simple clutch job to a nightmare. After installing and removal 3 times now, I have a leak, not my biggest problem though. What has developed after only 100 miles or so, and wasn't there until I took it to a mechanic to determine the leak, is a grinding noise if you will. When my car is in neutral and the clutch is not used there is a grinding or chattering noise. As soon as I press the clutch the nois goes away and the car is beautifully quiet. It does not seem to affect performance yet but am acrid as to what will happen. The flywheel is a stock one which was resurfaced when I replaced the clutch (with an autozone cheapy, it was free after they saw what happened to my old one from them) a hundred miles ago. I pretty sure I'm going to have to take tranny off again but lookin for someone to tell me that it's an easy fix. I can dream can't I.

Thanks

 

[DynastyLCD]

i just don't like sprung clutches. i'm not sure i ever will until i try one that won't blow apart like that.

$100 fix - click me

 

[G]

click

 

[Barnes]

Only thing outside the tranny internals that could make that noise is the throw out bearing. That's really your only option before you have to get inside the tranny again.

When my intermediate shaft outer bearing was bad, it make noise just like you describe. No, AAMCO said they replaced some bearings. I'd still suggest you find out which ones, and any other stuff they said they replaced/removed/repaired etc.

It's possible they did something wrong, or something else was going bad and it didn't become apparent until now.

Maybe you are lucky and they just put something together wrong that's right under the tranny end cover.

 

[maxash0775]

So, 2 weeks and about 100 miles after the new clutch and it diesd in the middle of a busy street.I got it home, tore it apart and as I was unbolting the Presure Plate metal parts just fell out.

Can these Sachs Oreilly clutches be that bad or is there a larger issue. I resurfaced the flywheel upon instalation. I also,from what I can tell had my rear main seal leaking. Can that affect the cclutch like this? Is my luck just this bad. My car is stock daily driver and I shift no higher than 3500 rpm.

I am going with an ACT this time hoping it will fix the issue. Anyone have input on best ACT for Daily Driver and where to get the best price let me know.

 

[Racah15]

This is how you fix your problem.

1:
Go to extreme psi and pick up a ACT 2100. Street disk for daily driving. Yes it's a fullface sprung, but they work. If you can't afford the clutch kit (Correct, kit, not clutch only[To include P.P]), go to eBay and find XTD Stage 4 Unsprung clutch kit. Comes with PP for around $140 or so. I run one, and it's a good clutch for the money. Lots of great reviews, so I'm trying it myself. Same thing as a 2600 ACT clutch with a 2100 Feel.

2:
Get yourself a new OEM throwout bearing, fork, and pivot ball. Don't use ANY other throw out bearing what so ever, even if you buy the ACT or XTD kits.

3:
Get a new flywheel, or a good one and have it resurfaced. No cracks. While it's off, replace that rear main seal.

4:
Always use a lubricant for the splines, helps greatly!

5: Install and torque PP/Flywheel to proper ft/lbs. Always use a clutch alignment tool.

6: Bleed your clutch system. Also, make sure your CMC isn't leaking. May have cause that bent fork if your shifting with the clutch engaged/semi-engaged. I don't know, but it doesn't hurt. 7 Times, for good luck /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

6.5: Adjust your clutch. You may have done it already, but oh well, probably should do it again

7: Get back to us with results.

You seem to be using very cheap parts, and that's your failure. Your car is only as strong as your weakest link. "Fast, reliable, Cheap... Pick 2"
By using cheap stuff, your setting yourself up for failure. I'm pretty cheap, and I learned the hard way. ESPECIALLY if it's your daily driver. You cannot cheap out!!

It already cost you a tranny, which would of been cheaper than buying a brand new ACT clutch system. If you don't like ACT, use Exedy, or XTD, or Fidanza.

 

[quato]

It may be more than you are willing to spend, but I had GREAT results with the Fidanza 3.2 kevlar clutch. It will last you forever as a bonus.

 

[G]

I would pass on act and go with exedy.

 

[IncorpoRatedX]

the important question is;

were the bearings that were worn out replaced?

On a daily driver a sprung clutch from any auto parts store will work just fine, anyone arguing otherwise doesn't grasp what a daily driver is normally.

 

[maxash0775]

Alpha, forgive my ignorance but which bearings are you referring to?

Thanks

 

[Racah15]

Quoting Alpha Male:

On a daily driver a sprung clutch from any auto parts store will work just fine, anyone arguing otherwise doesn't grasp what a daily driver is normally.



I normally would agree, but I don't think your statement is 100% correct. Talking about random non-essential parts I full 100% agree on (Brake pads/rotors/brake fluid/minor parts etc), but not on fully essential parts (Engine/trans related).I grasp what a daily driver is, and thus, I think putting cheap parts that fail often isn't a good plan for a daily driver, especially being just that, Daily driver. If anything, only top notch stuff should go in to make sure that the vehicle is reliable, since it's the main source of transportation. I have heard lots of failure stories from cheap auto part clutches, and we even have a few failure stories here, including the O.P. I don't think having to pull the transmission every 5k miles to replace a broken clutch is Daily driver friendly, but then again, maybe I don't grasp what a daily driver is. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

O.P. I believe alpha is talking about the internal bearings on the transmission. They need to be properly replaced and pre-loaded.

 

[turbowop]

I would pick up a TMZ clutch over an ACT. Unless you're making huge power, just get the 2200lb pressure plate. It's light enough for daily use. Get either the full kevlar disk or the dual friction kevlar/ceramic. Tim will take the pressure plate and bead blast it so that the kevlar will bed in quicker and properly. And his disks use Exedy hubs, which is the part that you don't want to cheap out on. That is the part that ACT seems to have issues with, since their springs tend to break out of the hub. I went through that twice.

 

[Vr4junkie]

There's also the South Bend clutch >> click they have good reviews. If you ever need an extra hand ill be willing to help just on the weekend as that's the only time I'm off.

 

[maxash0775]

SO, the saga continues. If you read the last update you saw that the clutch fell apart while I was driving. When I shifter 1st to second it felt like nothing was there. I thought once I got the trans off and fixed the clutch it would fix the situation. NOT!!

Here is what I just put in:

1: Gently used South bend clutch and 2200 PP

2: Gently used Fidanza lightened flywheel

3: New OEM Throw out bearing

4: New OEM clutch fork

5: New OEM pivot ball

6: New OEM axel seals left and right

7: New OEM rear man seal, gasket and metal retainer

I am sure there is more but cant think of it. What I am trying to say is I used all the right parts (this time).

I put it all and went to start it up and..... starts great but I cant take my foot off the clutch because it is stuck in a gear. Gear 1 and 2 still feel like theres nothing there, the other gears feel fine as I shift thru them with the clutch pressed. Havent actually driven since it is stuck in a gear.

Any one heard of this. Am I screwed. Just spent $550 fixing 5th gear from last time.

Thanks

 

[transparentdsm]

i didnt read the whole thread, but i recently had a clutch disengagement problem. is the pedal loose? i had to pull mine out and weld it solid because i had a lot of free play and the end of the clutch pedal arm was rounding out the lever that is held by the clutch pedal assembly spring. didnt take long to do it.

 

[maxash0775]

Pedal feels good. No play in pedal. Car in gear but I can keep the clutch in and it doesn't engage sk I'm thinking there is another issue. Could be wrong.

 

[vr4play]

I've had a shift rail break and have the car stuck in a gear even though you can move the shifter to other gears.

 

[Vr4junkie]

Any luck yet getting you're issue resolved ?