Deactivating ABS

1992 GVR-4 Just turned over 165K. Recetly I have been notincing that when I start her up the Antilock light stays on, and if isn't on it will usually just turn on at random. The odd occasion is when it isn't on and doesn't turn on right away, it will usually cause me to studder at breaking and then the light will turn on. After the light is on I notice no issues except that there is no ABS(hating all that is ABS, I don't really care). My only growing concern is that if this damn thing decides to fail when I need it the most(ie the light isn't on then decides to fail and turn on the light when I am coming to a fast stop with my family in the car). What all is involved in pulling the system and or just deactivating in general. I can easily pull the cluster and pull the bulb too, but that wouldn't be a fix, just one less bright light in my face on the rides home from work at night.

Thanks in advance for the help,
Matt

 

[iceman69510]

Mine began doing strange things that were very unsettling. Some days, first back-up down the driveway and the pedal would go to the floor. Then it might not happen for days or a week. then it would do it again once, etc. My wife got really upset at me one day when she drove it and it did that too her.

I pulled one of the underhood fuses to turn it off and it has not happened since. Must have been a failing solenoid valve or something that was allowing pressure drop in a line or two. I don't remember if it is the yellow or blue fuse (there are two in the small fuse block), but it leaves the light on. I just ignore it.

 

[Hertz]

Big yellow fuse. I believe they are bolted in? I yanked mine out with pliars anyways.

I think that you can deactivate it and kill the light by unplugging the ABS computer (driver's side, underhood, between strut tower and radiator overflow bottle, unplug the biggest plug, nearest the headlight).

I never used that method because I already pulled the fuse after my ABS started steering the car for me. I'm slowly working towards removing all the components (sensors in car, ps resevoir, lines, etc..)


[edit: thanks for the clarification Ron!]

 

[CP]

Mine would pulse at speeds under 5mph. I got sick of that, pulled the fuse underhood, yanked the computers in the armrest and trunk, and then cut all the lines in the fenders and removed the wheel speed sensors. I also pulled the bulb in the cluster.

After more than a year, and multiple lapping days at various tracks around New England I have yet to run into any ill effects or problems. My control unit in the left front fender is still there, as I don't have the patience or the means to run all new lines to eliminate it.

 

There's an ABS computer in the driver's side Rear fender panel by the antenna. My theory is that it probably has the same leaky capacitors that the ECU has. And that may cause ABS weirdness.

 

[sleepyvr4]

look here for your problem solver...

 

Unless your ABS controller is different from my JDM one, there are NO electrolytic capacitors used in it to leak.

 

[Hertz]

Controller != computer? There's the "lawnmower engine" underhood and then the ABS computer in the boot.

 

I tend to think of a computer as what I'm on the net with, and dedicated units such as our ECU, TCU, A/C and ABS electronics as 'controllers'. However it was the electronic bit I meant, not that solid cast metal contrivance in the engine bay with all the brake lines attached to it! Sorry for the confusion!

 

Sweet thanks for all the info, I'll get that done.

Thanks!

 

[CP]

I've got a question: should the bleeders on the abs unit ever be used when changing fluid? My abs is non-functional due to tossed fuses and sensors. I'm curious as to whether I should be bleeding that thing in the left front fender every time I do it at the 4 corners (I change my fluid many times each year). I think there are two bleeders on the abs unit iirc.

 

Yes. bleed those ABS bleeders. I think I'd do it after I'd blead everything else.

 

[CP]

Thanks Bob.

 

I pulled the 60 amp fues and the ABS computer in the trunk but the light stayed on. Unplugging the ABS computer underhood WORKED! Thanks Hertz. It is not the middle plug on my car but the one closer to the headlight. Its the biggest plug with 7 or 8 wires.



Quote:
Big yellow fuse. I believe they are bolted in? I yanked mine out with pliars anyways.

I think that you can deactivate it and kill the light by unplugging the ABS computer (driver's side, underhood, between strut tower and radiator overflow bottle, unplug the middle plug).

I never used that method because I already pulled the fuse after my ABS started steering the car for me. I'm slowly working towards removing all the components (sensors in car, ps resevoir, lines, etc..)

 

I just got done replacing all the abs lines with non abs ones. It takes some patience but if you have access do it its not very hard and really cleans it up if you want it gone anyway. By the way after I get rid of the "lawnmower engine" whats left to remove the computer in trunk and a fuse, anything else?

 

[Hertz]

Sensors galore. One in the center console, one at each wheel...

 

[powerplay]

One in the trunk, on the floor too.

 

[sleepyvr4]

Quote:
get rid of the "lawnmower engine"

 

That motor was a piant to get out and I thought I broke about 7 things taking it out but its gone. Wheel speed sensors are off my car too but I didn't know there was a center console sensor.

 

[CP]

Do we use the same size pad as the 2G cars? I've got a buddy that's got some rear track pads that fit the 2G caliper, and I was wondering if I can use them. Did 2G's have vented rear rotors, or solid (like ours)?