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Cyclone Install Completed

powerplay

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Jul 24, 2004
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Norwell, MA
We completed the install this past weekend. It took awhile to figure out what to do with the coils/transistor set up, but thanks to Ken and Jeff who had provided good input, it gave us a place to start. We did this with all of the parts from the old manifold, except for one plate to mount the transistor. It just fits in our application as we have a 3/4" phenolic spacer between the intake and head. There would be more room without that installed. I have more detailed pictures of the coil/transistor install if someone wants to see them.



 

powerplay

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Well I guess you are right! So far, just a few miles, it is very strong. I put the Cyclone on, as I am interested in it's strong point of low end torque. It does feel better in that respect. I have not really had it up in the upper revs yet to confirm the operation of the butterflies opening at 4100 via the ECU. However, I really wanted the benefits of the longer runners anyway. I will know more this weekend when I get out and put through the paces. I think it is a good match with the E3 16G, etc.
 

CP

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I take it this means the car is running again Scott. Throw some damn dirt on that shiny engine! My eyes hurt looking at it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif

I too have one of these manifolds, collecting dust on a shelf in my garage. And there it will remain until I get into engine mods next year sometime. However I'm planning on going the DSMLink route, so I need to figure out how to open the butterflies at whatever RPM I choose. Someone suggested using those pills that MSD sells, but I don't really know anything about them.

I'd like to swing by sometime in the next month or two to take a look and go for a drive /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
 

powerplay

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Norwell, MA
Cy, yes the car is running again. Yes, the Hobbs switch is how Ken did it before Jeff figured out how to do it with the ECU. They work, that is how we do it on one of the other cars we have. Set the switch to the rpm and it open the vacuum canister up to activate the butterflies.

I still have a pesky oil leak, which I have had since I did the balance shaft removal. I hate it and it is driving me nuts! It is leaking from the front cover and makes a mess of that whole underside of the car. I am going to have to take the front side of the car apart again to sort it out. I hate having to do all of the belts and other crap to get to the front cover.

When are you going down to DSG next time? We can meet there for the inspection.
 

G

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zompton
Looks very nice, now is this a usdm engine you added this to ? or did you install a jdm engine with it already on ?
btw is that a tomei timing belt ?
 

curtis

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May 4, 2003
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Clarksville TN
I agree with the above post put some dirt on all that shine. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Looks good. Thought this might give you another option.



This is how mine has been hooked up for about three years now with zero problems. It is pressure based with a hobbs and not RPM's. I used a factory pressure switch from a turbo subaru wagon (old school) that opens at about 3 psi. When the switch activate it also flips on a light to notify me that its working. I have had an adjustable hobbs out in the garage but just haven't installed it, 3 psi works preatty well.

 
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This is the ACTUAL, authentic JDM Cyclone diagram:
http://www.dsmchips.com/vacuum.jpg
I've replicated it using our FPR solenoid:
http://www.dsmchips.com/cyclone_hookup.jpg
The JDM ECU triggers it at ~4600 rpm, strictly by rpm. Its also important to note the fact that the JDM hookup blocks off the vaccum from the canister, not allowing it to escape when the Cyclone is activated, so the Cyclone secondaries will instantly pull back closed when your rpm's drop, without wasting any vacuum. Curtis' diagram essentially does the same job as one FPR solenoid, which has both a NORMALLY OPEN and a NORMALLY CLOSED port. You can use an MSD rpm "pill", but I believe the DSMLink has a feature to trigger external solenoids, like NO2, at a certain rpm.
 
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ken inn

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Feb 23, 2001
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krum texas
ima telling you, when i went from the hobbs switch thingy to the keydiver chip thingy, i noticed a big difference. much better with the chippy. also, you can lose a lot of vacuum lines, wires, switch, etc. cleans up the environment. the vacuum cannister is the key to correct operation.
 

I can vouch for ken's comments, considering that I own the car now /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

It is just plain old smoooooooth. Even in close-to-100 heat today, I make a few back to back runs, and it's FAST and smooth.

twkd
 

Gvr4-330

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Dec 30, 2001
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DC
Yeah I have the hobbs switch right now. It's pretty smooth, though you can tell when the butterflys open. it's like hitting vtec.

i want to do the chip thing... I just need to sit down and order it!

Rob
 

powerplay

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Jul 24, 2004
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Norwell, MA
G, It is the stock USDM engine which I added the intake. It is activated by Jeff's chip, wired/piped per his diagram. The timing belt is a Toda Racingbelt from Japan. It took me two months and many phone calls to convince them to sell it to me. They said it wouldn't fit and I told them it would. They finally agreed and said I own it whether it fits or not. Of course it fits.
 

You can buy it new from a dealer, since they used it again on the 3G GTS model. The number is posted if you do a search. I'm pretty sure I posted it along with a ton of other Cyclone information back when I first installed mine.
 

doh! was searching under the wrong words.
thank yoU!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

For the search-impaired: /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

You can use the vacuum canister for the Eclipse GTS or Montero 3.8l with variable induction: MD125817. Its only ~$25.
 

ouch /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif...
searched for like an hour /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
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