Code 44

[Brunoboy]

Hey everyone, I have had this problem for the longest time, I have a code 44 (ignition Coil) that keeps coming on then shutting off. Well Conrad swapped out my coil packs for a set he had, and then it was fine but on the way home it messed up again, I changed it again today and still the same problem. Any Ideas?
-Shane

 

Is the car also missing, or is it just throwing a code 44 with no driveability issues? Does the dash tach work OK? The Code 44 means the ECU didn't see the ignition fire. But, its also often caused by acid damage in the ECU. The tach circuit is right next to the 100uF cap, and gets eaten quite often.

 

[Brunoboy]

yha it misses, It runs on 3 cylinders for the time its on.

 

Yeah my Talon did the exact same thing once, turned out to be the caps in the ECU.

 

Chances are that you are only running on 2 cylinders, since everything fires in pairs with our wasted spark system. It has to be either the coilpack, transistor, ECU, or the wiring bewteen them. Sorry that doesn't narrow things down much for you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
The first thing to do is unplug the connectors to the transistor and coilpack to look for oxidation.


Quoting brunoboy:
yha it misses, It runs on 3 cylinders for the time its on.

 

[CP]

If you've got a COP setup, that could be the problem (bad coil).

 

[Brunoboy]

Quoting keydiver:
Chances are that you are only running on 2 cylinders, since everything fires in pairs with our wasted spark system. It has to be either the coilpack, transistor, ECU, or the wiring bewteen them. Sorry that doesn't narrow things down much for you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
The first thing to do is unplug the connectors to the transistor and coilpack to look for oxidation.


Quoting brunoboy:
yha it misses, It runs on 3 cylinders for the time its on.





well so far so good, I rewired my safc now, and my car isnt doing the check engine thing anymore. *knock on wood*. When I changed the packs over, I changed to new wires as well because my old wires split in the old packs.

 

[Brunoboy]

nvm..............It came back, and then I pulled over, and then i got back on the road and got blurped by the coppers............Bad luck..... I think im changing my ECU soon to see if its the problem

 

[BluFalcon]

My GVR4 threw a Code 44 when I first got it home. Had some issues with driveability (missing on acceleration and at cruise) on the trip home from Colorado. Swapped coil pack, and ignition power transistor with no change. Finally installed a 91 DSM ECU I had lying around and drove it for a few days, with no codes thrown and no issues while driving.

 

[Brunoboy]

thats some good info ^^^ im trying to get my hands on one, I have a 90 Eprom, will that work just to check it or is 90 way different?

 

You can use the 90 ECU if you swap two wires in the harness, #6 and #14 as highlighted HERE .

 

[Brunoboy]

just pull them out and switch it from the cars harness?

 

Yes. Use a tiny flathead screwdriver (like the kind used for eyeglasses) to release the terminal that is inside the harness plug. (I Don't have a pic and its been a long time since I did my harness so I can't give a good in depth description of how to do it, but if you look closely at the harness you should be able to figure out where the release tab is.) Then just swap the position of those two wires.

 

[Brunoboy]

thanks, I just also realized that it only happens in low rpms too....2-3k

 

Quoting dsm_drew:
Use a tiny flathead screwdriver (like the kind used for eyeglasses) to release the terminal that is inside the harness plug.



There are actually TWO locks for each terminal. First you have to remove the black lock between each pair of terminals by grabbing it with a needlenose pliers and sliding it out the front. Then you can reach in with the jewelers screwdriver to release the little yellow lever that locks the terminal in, and just slide the wires out the back. Just keep track of which colored wire you removed from which connector. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

That's right, I forgot about those locks. Been so long since I did that.

Here is a post with some pics of exactly how to do it that may be helpful: CLICK

 

[Brunoboy]

Quoting brunoboy:
thanks, I just also realized that it only happens in low rpms too....2-3k

 

[Brunoboy]

Bump, still got a problem =/, Is there any particular reason it only does it in the low rpms????

 

[ktmrider]

Quoting keydiver:
Is the car also missing, or is it just throwing a code 44 with no driveability issues? Does the dash tach work OK? The Code 44 means the ECU didn't see the ignition fire. But, its also often caused by acid damage in the ECU. The tach circuit is right next to the 100uF cap, and gets eaten quite often.

Did you swap ECU's like suggested yet?

 

[Brunoboy]

i dont have another one -___- i will borrow Tre3zys too see. It hasnt happened in a couple days and I just realized the power transistor I did NOT replace. I thought it was something else when I looked at it so I didnt want to touch it lol.....I will do that when I get a chance as well.