The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Clutch Pedal Assembly Welding?

OZRally

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 5, 2009
Messages
78
Location
Illinois
I already know where it needs to be welded, just asking where the clutch pedal has to be at rest. The nut and the bushings is part of what gives the slop. The other part I noticed is the ear that braces the clutch master to the assembly. The plastic bushing wears down and the ear develops an oval shape. That I already took care of, I just need to get this thing welded.
When I think about it, would it not matter where the pedal is resting while welding it? The shaft itself isn't getting welded to the shaft it rides on. Just the nut and shaft get welded onto the bracket it's bolted on. Just need to confirm where the pedal position has to be at.
Thanks
 

GSX_TC

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2011
Messages
3,722
Location
Houston, Texas
push it to where it gets rid of the slop, then hold it there.
 

Brunoboy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
Clutch pedal should line up with brake pedal when it's in it's up position. BTW 40 minutes is hella fast, it took me a good hr and a half.
 
Last edited:

grocery_getter

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 20, 2004
Messages
1,225
Location
Kent - industrial suburbs of Seattle, WA
After the assembly is out, use that time to replace all the bushing on the long rod. You can get shep bushing for the end near the welded part and buy new bushing for the brake pedal swivel part. Weld the assembly in the position of the flat that gives you the most advantage when adjusting the clutch pedal play later on. This is important since the flat on the clutch arm is not truly flat anymore. One way will gain you travel, the other way will loose you travel on the adjustment rod threads. Think about which way you need to adjust the rod when it is all installed and it'll come to you. Make sure you take the assembly apart and really clean the part to be welded. I bead blast all the to-be-welded parts and give them acetone wipe before tigging them together. If you are migging it make sure you are penetrating and not just cold welding it. Unlike exhaust weld or intercooler piping weld, this weld will see a lot of torquing motion on it. Make sure your weld is good.
 

OZRally

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 5, 2009
Messages
78
Location
Illinois
Rebuilt and welded the assembly. Now have a good 2" of room before engagement. I am happy!
 

DynastyLCD

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2006
Messages
761
Location
Harwinton, CT
Quoting brunoboy:
Clutch pedal should line up with brake pedal when it's in it's up position. BTW 40 minutes is hella fast, it took me a good hr and a half.



i can do my 1g in 40-45 minutes, going one way. the galant looks worlds easier, IMHO.

swivel sockets, and cordless impact and ratchet work wonders.
 

Brunoboy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
That's what I used lol but I have Hella wiring around my pedals.
-Shane
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Top