Clutch Master Cylinder, rebuild or replace

[Hertz]

Should I go with a rebuild kit and clean up my existing clutch master cylinder or buy a loaded master and be done with it?

I've got a spare master and time to work on it, not sure what tools/technique I would need to clean up the inside of the cylinder (or if it is necessary)

TIA

 

Buy new, aluminum can get out of round, and it may not work as well. The bore may also have scoring.

 

[Terry Posten]

I'm with Jon, buy new.

But what ever you do, at least they are not hard to replace and re-bleed. It is only about a 1/2 hour job.

 

I say buy new.. I got re-build kit from vauto-zone and it has never worked properly since. before it worked fine but noticed a little bit of fluid residue in car by master. could be cause the rebuild kit was from autozone that it is gimpy

 

[Rausch]

Between the rebuild kit, the hone (if needed) and the time, you're better off just replacing it.

If it wasn't so cold, I'd suggest we get about 10 people together to make sure it gets done. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

[Hertz]

Looks like the hardest part will be chipping away the stalactites that have formed around the bolts. The whole thing is crusty. I only inspected it from the cabin, once I actually decided to pull it out I saw that it was rusty/growing something. It's soaking in PB right now.

I'd guess it is original 200k+ miles.

 

[Rausch]

Mine looked that was as well, soaked for a day or two, and they came right out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

2600 was kind enough to point out every potential flaw in the system with the first couple weeks after install. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

[HHIVR4]

^ Yeah no sh*t..

 

[Terry Posten]

Bring her over Hertz, we'll get it fixed.

 

[Hertz]

Yeah, I'll drive it all the way there in 2nd or 3rd. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[jepherz]

I posted a long time ago about a dealer I had found on ebay with OEM master cylinders under the manufacturer's name. They were about $45 shipped.

 

[Myles]

Found it
click

Ebay Store

 

[ercp98]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Yeah, I'll drive it all the way there in 2nd or 3rd."

just match the rpm's when you shift and you'll be ok. i had to drive the vr4 from
downtown chicago to oak park on division street that way because the master and slave cylinder decided to break. i had to drive very creative to avoid stop lights and other cars with out stalling or stopping completely.

 

[G]

I thought tokico was the oe? I would confirm in caps that the unit from the e16a & the e18a are the same as e39a.

 

[Hertz]

Well I ordered a Beck Arnley branded one from Rock Auto for $41.99 - 5% + shipping.

 

[CP]

I've got a spare 1G OEM one (bigger resevoir) I could have sent to you...

 

[Hertz]

Quoting G:
I thought tokico was the oe? I would confirm in caps that the unit from the e16a & the e18a are the same as e39a.



I got my clutch master from Rock Auto last night, it was a reboxed Nabco, exactly the same as stock.

WIN!

 

[Hertz]

I think I'm failing at bleeding this bastard. Any hints?

I was able to drive about 5 miles the other night until it started to get more and more difficult to get into gear, eventually locking me in neutral.

Tonight, I crack the bleeder on the slave... nothing, I keep backing it out, take it all the way out and no fluid comes out. Reservoir is full. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsdunno.gif

I tried about 5 times: crack the bleeder, push in the clutch, tighten the bleeder, pull the clutch up, repeat.

Do I need to just keep at it?

I'm getting frustrated and this should be something simple.

More background:
No fluid leaks, boots are dry, adjusted the pedal, observed full clutch actuation.

 

Did you bench bleed before the install?

 

[Hertz]

No.

I have no idea what that means, have to go look it up. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif