Car wants to hold revs when above 15mph

I just bought my G VR4 and it has a very strange problem, when I am driving around and push the clutch in to shift or slow to a stop the revs climb to 3k or so, they will hold there until the car slows below 15 mph then it will idle fine, I have checked for vac leaks and fixed them, but it did nothing for this problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Chris

 

ISC and your BISS are probably out of whack.

 

[atc250r]

It is probably ABS related. I can't remember what causes it since I took my ABS out a LONG time ago. If you pull the under hood fuse out to disable the ABS it should fix the problem but you will no longer have ABS.

John

 

You want to pull the BIG ABS fuse, like 60 amp or something. Or, cut the ABS wire to the ECU, pin #11 if I recall. Someone has evidently disabled your ABS, perhaps by pulling the ABS 20 amp fuse under the hood.

 

Driving around with the 20A ABS fuse pulled or burned out will definitely cause that problem, but that should trigger the orange ABS light on your dash.
Mike R.

 

[atc250r]

Unless someone already pulled the bulb out.

John

 

on the drivers side under hood & just above the abs motor there are two connectors. disconect the one towards the fronT of the car & it should put the abs to sleep light or no light.

Bamm!!! 700 baby /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

 

[147/1000]

I pulled the fuses to disable my ABS years ago and it did the same thing, Replaced the 20A fuse and it returned to normal.

 

[atc250r]

Quote:
on the drivers side under hood & just above the abs motor there are two connectors. disconect the one towards the fronT of the car & it should put the abs to sleep light or no light.

Bamm!!! 700 baby /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif



HAHAHA!! I think I may be the one who started that idea a few years ago when I removed mine and looked at the wiring diagrams to see how I could kill the light without removing the cluster. If someone did that already then I think the idle would not flake out but I could be wrong.

John

 

pulling that connector is exactly how I fixed the ummm.... idle issue & it turned the light off.

 

You guys are good, I am very glad I joined this forum. The guy I bought the car off of had disabled the abs and the fuse is unplugged from under the hood at the block by the battery, I have never heard of something like this but you guys nailed it. Now my question is if I put the 20A fuse back in will it fix the problem because I would like to reatain ABS (I think?) If the only way to fix this is to remove the connector as described then that is fine too because it is VERY annoying.

Thanks
Chris

 

It might fix the high revs between shift problem but it may not fix whatever might be wrong with it that caused the previous owner to disconnect it.
Mike R.

 

[atc250r]

Yeah, your best bet is to put leave it disconnected. Mine almost caused me to total my car when it decided that I was skidding when I really wasn't and I almost drove right through a busy intersection.

John

 

i dissabled mine when it caused me to have an accident the first couple days i had the car.

 

[147/1000]

^ I almost rear ended a F350 dully, swerved and almost hit a building because of the ABS one day. The previous owner might have pulled the fuses to disable the ABS because it sucks, but then again there could be something else wrong with the system. If you replace the fuses. (I believe there are 2 A 20amp and i want to say a 60amp i don't remember but i know the bigger one is screwed in) It might bring the system back to life if not something else could be wrong. IMO you would probably be better off leaving it disabled and replacing the 20amp fuse or pulling the above listed plug to fix the idle problem.

 

Well, I disconnected the plug by the ABS motor and the problem went away. Thanks for the help everyone.

Chris