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car starts, revs to 2.5k then dies

yubh8tn

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Joined
Aug 21, 2019
Messages
149
Location
coeur d alene, idaho
title. Just got the car running after a year and a half, good bit of rush work, so I need to clean it all up, which i'm sure will help fix this problem

but I installed a 3G eclipse maf, DSMLink v3, 1000c FIC injectors, and a 255lph walbro now. Any of those could cause this I feel so I'm asking you guys what you think. I can record a video if you guys want. Thanks
 
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Nebraska

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Apr 9, 2015
Messages
134
Location
Lincoln, NE
Is it idling to 2500?
If so, may be you forgot to plug in a vacuum hose and have a major vacuum leak. Maybe one of the nipples by the injectors were forgotten?
Do you have a boost leak tester?

Otherwise I see you have some mods, did you happen to install an AFPR? They say it isn’t necessary for 1g but I have always done it for insurance.

Does your timing check out?

For some reason I’m putting my money on boost leak!
 

yubh8tn

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Joined
Aug 21, 2019
Messages
149
Location
coeur d alene, idaho
Yeah its idling at 2500. It didnt when I first made this post but that was because I forgot to enable narrowband simulation so it just had no afr values.

I think its idling at 2500 because I grabbed and replaced both sensors on our TB's without adjusting anything. I didn't know they needed adjusting until like a minute ago. It's also very possible I have a major boost leak and will do a leakdown test tomorrow.

edit: do a boost leak test not leakdown lol
 
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gvr4ever

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Aug 6, 2002
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6,026
Location
central Indiana
</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quoting Nebraska:</font><hr />
Is it idling to 2500?
If so, may be you forgot to plug in a vacuum hose and have a major vacuum leak. Maybe one of the nipples by the injectors were forgotten?
Do you have a boost leak tester?

Otherwise I see you have some mods, did you happen to install an AFPR? They say it isn’t necessary for 1g but I have always done it for insurance.

Does your timing check out?

For some reason I’m putting my money on boost leak!

<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">

I recall the 2G stock FPR being better at controlling a higher flowing fuel pump that the 1G. I recall knowing someone who ran a 190lph pump in a 2G with zero FPR mods and it seemed fine. I ran my Galant VR4 for a very short time with just a Walbro 255 and at idle it ran way too rich. In boost pressure, it seemed to be okay, but in vacuum, no dice. I hated it and quickly ordered a aftermarket FPR.

Large boost leaks (like forgetting to hook something up) will cause a car to stall right away. It never hurts to check, but it sounds like a tuning issue and you're already on top of it.
 

Nebraska

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Apr 9, 2015
Messages
134
Location
Lincoln, NE
The good old 190s! I miss that stuff. After reading some on tuners, a 255/no fpr would just cause a black bumper as your stating and not so much an idling issue. Hmmmmm.

Could be tuning issue for sure, if you were playing with the throttle body, the BISS screw could need adjustment, there is an o ring in there that can degrade. In link can you report what your IAC position is?

Also car will not immediately stall with major boost leak from my experience at least when idling(popping couplers off and such but definitely not driveable nor will it run very long) but I do recall not utilizing one of the nipples when I was 16 or so. With that nipple open the car would turn on and shoot to 2-2500 rpms

I’ve also stripped out an intake manifold bolt and had these same symptoms.

Also OP, leak down test is different from boost leak test. Just clarifying!
 
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yubh8tn

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Aug 21, 2019
Messages
149
Location
coeur d alene, idaho
Quoting "Nebraska":

Could be tuning issue for sure, if you were playing with the throttle body, the BISS screw could need adjustment, there is an o ring in there that can degrade. In link can you report what your IAC position is?




I didnt mess with any screws besides the ones that hold on the sensors, but I didnt adjust my TPS at all after installing it, and i guess it's possible I didnt tighten an intake manifold nut all the way, but I'm pretty sure I did. Also both nipples I can see behind the fuel rail are plumbed to something, are there more? I'll do a BOOST leak test like you said hahaha... thanks for the clarification

I'll report my IAC values when I get home
 
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yubh8tn

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Joined
Aug 21, 2019
Messages
149
Location
coeur d alene, idaho
I just adjusted the TPS voltage to 0.65v, close enough to 0.63 right?


my idle servo thingy (i had this messed up earlier and had TPS and IAC terminology flipped) makes clicking noises randomly though, could that cause it? When i pull it out and look the thing doesnt go in or out like I think its supposed to, but I dont think that will set my idle to 2500-3000. I will try adjusting my BISS screw now
 
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vrpower

Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2010
Messages
18
Location
Chicago, Illinois
This reminds me of similar stuff that happpend to me
Way back in 2004 !

Pray for yubhi !!!

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 

GrocMax

New member
Joined
Nov 1, 2013
Messages
2
Location
McKinney TX
title. Just got the car running after a year and a half, good bit of rush work, so I need to clean it all up, which i'm sure will help fix this problem

but I installed a 3G eclipse maf, DSMLink v3, 1000c FIC injectors, and a 255lph walbro now. Any of those could cause this I feel so I'm asking you guys what you think. I can record a video if you guys want. Thanks
Sounds to me like the classic closed throttle switch not being on when the throttle is closed.
 
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