Specter
Well-known member
Start wrenching as soon as the bolt stops glowing from heat.
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toybreaker
iconoclast
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2006
- Messages
- 3,581
Quoting thedsmguy:
Grind the "guiding" lip off the socket you are using. Make it "flat" on the face of the socket so that you get the most grab out of the socket and it will NOT slip off those short headed bolts.
Good luck.
This is a damn good tip! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
If you're using an impact style air tool, be sure to use an impact rated socket. They are much thicker, and will stand up to the forces the gun can produce.
Chrome (non impact) sockets can shatter under the repeatative blows from the gun and send pieces flying everywhere.
Grind the "guiding" lip off the socket you are using. Make it "flat" on the face of the socket so that you get the most grab out of the socket and it will NOT slip off those short headed bolts.
Good luck.
This is a damn good tip! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
If you're using an impact style air tool, be sure to use an impact rated socket. They are much thicker, and will stand up to the forces the gun can produce.
Chrome (non impact) sockets can shatter under the repeatative blows from the gun and send pieces flying everywhere.
Since the op is not responding to my question, i'll just say that I am reading a lot of bad advice regarding the heating method. You should not be heating the bolt but rather the flywheel surface around the bolt. Heating the bolt makes it bigger. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
trunks
Well-known member
- I've always heated the bolt a bit to get the locktite to melt and loosen.
misterfixit
Well-known member
Too much heat and the rear crankseal will be buggered. Bolt a strap from one of the flywheel clutch cover holes to the gearbox mounting lug that'll hold the crank fast. Then use a shallow socket (a deep one will just try to rock off) and use a very stiff breaker bar (mine is a 3') and then another piece of pipe aswell (i use an old 43mm yamaha dirt bike fork leg). Take up the slack and it will go if it doesn't you are turning it the wrond way.
I'm concerned you are overtorquing the cambelt end if you are using that to react your leverage. The other thing youis a rattle gun will want to take te corners off the bolt (you really shouldn't need that!
Another tip to increase your leverage, make sure the bar is lined up across the crank axis. if its directly opposite it reduces your leverage.
Rich
I'm concerned you are overtorquing the cambelt end if you are using that to react your leverage. The other thing youis a rattle gun will want to take te corners off the bolt (you really shouldn't need that!
Another tip to increase your leverage, make sure the bar is lined up across the crank axis. if its directly opposite it reduces your leverage.
Rich
Last edited:
donkeylips
Well-known member
Quoting G:
Since the op is not responding to my question, i'll just say that I am reading a lot of bad advice regarding the heating method. You should not be heating the bolt but rather the flywheel surface around the bolt. Heating the bolt makes it bigger. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Yes the point is to expand the hole so that the bolt has an easier time coming out, but its kind of like splitting hairs - how accurate are you gonna get with a torch? If you heat right next to the bolts, they will still get hot enough to glow often times. The process of the bolt and hole expanding and contracting at different rates should help break it free. In a case like this I think heating the bolt itself will probably help you more than hurt you, but yes, heat the area around the bolt. And when you're dealing with nuts you want to heat the nut.
Since the op is not responding to my question, i'll just say that I am reading a lot of bad advice regarding the heating method. You should not be heating the bolt but rather the flywheel surface around the bolt. Heating the bolt makes it bigger. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Yes the point is to expand the hole so that the bolt has an easier time coming out, but its kind of like splitting hairs - how accurate are you gonna get with a torch? If you heat right next to the bolts, they will still get hot enough to glow often times. The process of the bolt and hole expanding and contracting at different rates should help break it free. In a case like this I think heating the bolt itself will probably help you more than hurt you, but yes, heat the area around the bolt. And when you're dealing with nuts you want to heat the nut.
Wow, alot of great responses. I have put this on the backburner for a little bit but I will respond shortly.
Happy Holidays and thank you.
Happy Holidays and thank you.
FlyingEagle
Staff member
Just a thought when heating. Using a propane torch will not get you hot enough to do anything more than melt solder. You need MAP gas or a Oxy/Acetylene mixture to get enough heat into those areas, or actually be able to get something hot. Follow all the advice posted earlier, use heat as the last resort.
OK I am ready to respond and let you all know what is happening. I just started a new job and haven't had time to do anything besides commute and work.
I will respond to each post individually and try to give you the big picture since you all were very helpful and took time out of YOUR lives to help me.
I will respond to each post individually and try to give you the big picture since you all were very helpful and took time out of YOUR lives to help me.
No extra pipe, just 2 large breaker bars. One is in the "keyed" area of the crankshaft pulley and resting against the car's frame. It is not rotating due to this.
Pipe on top of the breaker bar?
Quoting Ian M:
Quote:
Did you try a pipe to get extra leverage?
A lot of times a long piece of pipe for leverage works better than a impact,especially if its one that isn't super torquey or have a compressor with some real ass to push it.
Quoting Ian M:
Quote:
Did you try a pipe to get extra leverage?
A lot of times a long piece of pipe for leverage works better than a impact,especially if its one that isn't super torquey or have a compressor with some real ass to push it.
I do have a short pipe (maybe a foot long) over the 3/8 socket wrench and it wouldn't budge it. I'll get rid of the deep socket if you don't think it is a good idea.
Quoting donkeylips:
Use a 6-point socket and a pipe. Works every time. Avoid the deep socket btw. I think I've done it with a regular 3/8" ratchet before.
Quoting donkeylips:
Use a 6-point socket and a pipe. Works every time. Avoid the deep socket btw. I think I've done it with a regular 3/8" ratchet before.
Same method that I am using. I am using this method (the 1/2 breaker bar on the crank pulley) to keep it from rotating. I verified with the previous owner that he did use the high strength red loctite. How hard can red loctite make my life (not being sarcastic just being curious)?
Quoting mr.mitsu:
Quoting SmoothCustomer:
Are you doing a good enough job keeping it from rotating? ...
I've used a 1/2" breaker bar on the crank pulley.
Holds it just fine.
If there is red loctite, propane might not be hot enough.
Quoting mr.mitsu:
Quoting SmoothCustomer:
Are you doing a good enough job keeping it from rotating? ...
I've used a 1/2" breaker bar on the crank pulley.
Holds it just fine.
If there is red loctite, propane might not be hot enough.
I am using a cheap impact gun (I am very new to impact guns). This is a cheap Walmart 20-25 buck Campbell Hausfeld gun. The compressor won't push more than 95 psi to it. I also tried one of those 1/2 impact deals that you hammer from hammer freight with no results. (I have never had luck with that thing although alot of people do.
Quoting Dan D:
What kind of impact wrench? Even using just the short bursts avaialble from the little compressor, a good impact can probably knock'em loose. If you're using a cheapo impact, even with real compressor, it doesn't apply enough force. If you know any mechanics, see if you can borrow an IR 2135 or an Aircat 1000 impact wrench.
Quoting Dan D:
What kind of impact wrench? Even using just the short bursts avaialble from the little compressor, a good impact can probably knock'em loose. If you're using a cheapo impact, even with real compressor, it doesn't apply enough force. If you know any mechanics, see if you can borrow an IR 2135 or an Aircat 1000 impact wrench.
Same as above, even with the legit airgun, won't I need a solid/expensive compressor? I am kind of stuck here with no pals.
Quoting alansupra94:
Yeah...need a legit airgun...I have a craftsman that does 800ft/lbs....IR guns are baller though at like 1000ft/lbs
Quoting alansupra94:
Yeah...need a legit airgun...I have a craftsman that does 800ft/lbs....IR guns are baller though at like 1000ft/lbs
I am also at my limits for spending on these bolts. Times are pretty bad for me right now and I have already put about $100 bucks into getting these bolts out, nevermind the cost of a new PTT clutch setup. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
Quoting alansupra94:
Yeah...need a legit airgun...I have a craftsman that does 800ft/lbs....IR guns are baller though at like 1000ft/lbs
Quoting alansupra94:
Yeah...need a legit airgun...I have a craftsman that does 800ft/lbs....IR guns are baller though at like 1000ft/lbs
I don't think it will fit over my wrenches, but I can try.
Quoting dsmtalontsi95:
The handle of a floor jack works great for a "torque pipe"
Quoting dsmtalontsi95:
The handle of a floor jack works great for a "torque pipe"
Not sure there is enough room for that, but I will try.
Quoting dmj:
Crank that compressor to 100/110 psi psi and use a good impact gun, worked for me. If that fails use a 6 ft pipe extension/ jack handle over the breaker bar.
Quoting dmj:
Crank that compressor to 100/110 psi psi and use a good impact gun, worked for me. If that fails use a 6 ft pipe extension/ jack handle over the breaker bar.
Where can I get MAPP gas? Is it easy to get at bottom level auto parts stores e.g. Autozone? Around how much is it? Is it just like propane where I buy it and it is all set to go?
Quoting donkeylips:
My cheap impact gun is completely useless unless I want to change a set of wheels fast. If you're using a 12-point socket you're much more likely to round them off than with a 6-point. 6-point will transmit the force to the bolt in a more effective way. MAPP gas isn't too expensive and it burns hotter than propane.
Quoting donkeylips:
My cheap impact gun is completely useless unless I want to change a set of wheels fast. If you're using a 12-point socket you're much more likely to round them off than with a 6-point. 6-point will transmit the force to the bolt in a more effective way. MAPP gas isn't too expensive and it burns hotter than propane.
