Whats considered a battery relocation?
Anything other than stock?
Cruce
Anything other than stock?
Cruce
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Battery relocation under the hood (Longish)
- Thread starterblacksheep
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quote:Originally posted by crucible:
Whats considered a battery relocation?
Anything other than stock?
Cruce That should mean that it was relocated into the passenger compartment somewhere, ie: not on the other side of the firewall (in the engine compartment) anymore. You can relocate under the hood all you want.
Whats considered a battery relocation?
Anything other than stock?
Cruce That should mean that it was relocated into the passenger compartment somewhere, ie: not on the other side of the firewall (in the engine compartment) anymore. You can relocate under the hood all you want.
quote:Originally posted by sjg:
Also, the common thing to do is to mount the switch behind the license plate, then take the plate off when at the track. Nice.
Also, the common thing to do is to mount the switch behind the license plate, then take the plate off when at the track. Nice.
blacksheep
Well-known member
I wanna do it on one of the tailights, I can throw it in only when I go to the track.
I think "battery location" would refer to any move outside the engine bay, although tie-down requirements would apply to moves within the bay.
These rules are enforced to varying degrees at different tracks. If you have a specific track you plan to mostly run at it would be well worth your time to drop by and talk to a couple of the tech inspectors. Also be aware that their rules may be different for open run-what-you-brung type racing vs. sanctioned events. And if/when you want to do a little autocrossing, NHRA compliance would put you in good shape for that as well. Battery relocation is really pretty simple. I mean you are working with nice fat wire, nuts, bolts, power drills. I figure any job that doesn't require a torque wrench is pretty basic
.
Our local track banished my son's 240 for lack of a kill switch but once that was installed and the battery was J-bolted to the frame they had no problem with his $10 unsealed and unvented plastic battery box! I used to have a battery in the trunk of my old Si in a wood box that was bolted to the frame and vented. But they never said boo about a cut-off switch back then.
These rules are enforced to varying degrees at different tracks. If you have a specific track you plan to mostly run at it would be well worth your time to drop by and talk to a couple of the tech inspectors. Also be aware that their rules may be different for open run-what-you-brung type racing vs. sanctioned events. And if/when you want to do a little autocrossing, NHRA compliance would put you in good shape for that as well. Battery relocation is really pretty simple. I mean you are working with nice fat wire, nuts, bolts, power drills. I figure any job that doesn't require a torque wrench is pretty basic
Our local track banished my son's 240 for lack of a kill switch but once that was installed and the battery was J-bolted to the frame they had no problem with his $10 unsealed and unvented plastic battery box! I used to have a battery in the trunk of my old Si in a wood box that was bolted to the frame and vented. But they never said boo about a cut-off switch back then.
quote:Originally posted by theymightbegalants:
[Then don't take it to the track.
I'm only half joking here... it never ceases to amaze me how many people drag their GVR4s. Or any car, for that matter...Well sh*t, Jon, around here acceleration is about the only performance catagory we can measure quantitatively. I guess I could get me a G-meter and do some skidpad work but all the big parking lots belong to casinos and they are always full of cars from Alabama.
The closest we can get to road-course driving is autocross days over at NAS Belle Chase a couple hours away in La. Roads around here are mostly straight and flat. So about all we have to do on a Wed. night is go to the track and try to break stuff.
[Then don't take it to the track.
would it be acceptable to use the anntena mast hole?
Hehe, funny you should mention that TOF, I was just cruising on over here to delete those statements having slept on them. I realized that I was being far too close minded, and each person likes to do things differently. Yes, perhaps I am spoiled out here: this summer, along the I5 corridor, there's an autocross event every wknd save one, I think. Plus a few hillclimbs, a dozen or so road rallies, and a bunch of track days. Of course, I'm sure there's plenty of drag racing as well, but needless to say that's not on my calendar.
turbowop
Well-known member
Kill switch:
Here is how I did mine. Don't mind the nonsealed battery tray that's coming apart on the bottom. That's being replaced as we speak, with a nice sealed, metal box that is bolted to the trunk floor and uses 3/8" threaded rod to hold down the battery as per NHRA regulations. My kill switch setup is completely legal. I ordered the Flaming River remote kill switch from Summit along with the push rod for it all for around $80 IIRC. Since pretty much every surface on the back of the car is more than one layer thick I thought this would be the best way. Good luck mounting one of those "turn style" switches on a taillight. And as far as mounting behind the license plate....well, I didn't want to have to route the wiring up onto the trunk lid itself which is what you would have to do. I drilled a hole in the taillight housing and put the rod through there and mounted the switch on the inside of the trunk. It's hard to see so I will take better pics tomorrow while working on the car. If nobody wants a rod sticking out the back of the car while not racing it can simply be unscrewed from the pivot on the switch and the hole in the taillight can be plugged.
Here is how I did mine. Don't mind the nonsealed battery tray that's coming apart on the bottom. That's being replaced as we speak, with a nice sealed, metal box that is bolted to the trunk floor and uses 3/8" threaded rod to hold down the battery as per NHRA regulations. My kill switch setup is completely legal. I ordered the Flaming River remote kill switch from Summit along with the push rod for it all for around $80 IIRC. Since pretty much every surface on the back of the car is more than one layer thick I thought this would be the best way. Good luck mounting one of those "turn style" switches on a taillight. And as far as mounting behind the license plate....well, I didn't want to have to route the wiring up onto the trunk lid itself which is what you would have to do. I drilled a hole in the taillight housing and put the rod through there and mounted the switch on the inside of the trunk. It's hard to see so I will take better pics tomorrow while working on the car. If nobody wants a rod sticking out the back of the car while not racing it can simply be unscrewed from the pivot on the switch and the hole in the taillight can be plugged.
quote:Originally posted by theymightbegalants:
Hehe, funny you should mention that TOF, I was just cruising on over here to delete those statements having slept on them. I realized that I was being far too close minded, and each person likes to do things differently. Yes, perhaps I am spoiled out here: this summer, along the I5 corridor, there's an autocross event every wknd save one, I think. Plus a few hillclimbs, a dozen or so road rallies, and a bunch of track days. Of course, I'm sure there's plenty of drag racing as well, but needless to say that's not on my calendar.
Yeah, yeah...I feel yer joy, playah.
Driving mine home from Pa down the Blue Ridge Parkway was the best time I have had in the car so far and it wasn't even running all that well at the time! (But it handled just fine.)
Enjoy the drive!
Hehe, funny you should mention that TOF, I was just cruising on over here to delete those statements having slept on them. I realized that I was being far too close minded, and each person likes to do things differently. Yes, perhaps I am spoiled out here: this summer, along the I5 corridor, there's an autocross event every wknd save one, I think. Plus a few hillclimbs, a dozen or so road rallies, and a bunch of track days. Of course, I'm sure there's plenty of drag racing as well, but needless to say that's not on my calendar.
Enjoy the drive!
blacksheep
Well-known member
supergvr4man - post some under hood shots, I wanna see how you isolated the power wire and fuse box so it doesnt touch any metal and arc. Did you use a battery distribution block of some sort ?
Thanks!
Thanks!
I did relocated the Cruise control to the charcoal filter location with a custom bracket. But to be honest I might just remove it all together.
The CC in the truck works better.
As for your termination question, KC, the battery terminal unbolts from the factory fuse box. With a ring terminal on you new lead wire to the trunk you can bolt it to the fuse box using the hole you just opened up. The connection is tight and pretty well protected as is but you could also wrap it will a little electrical tape for good measure. I wire tied the harness back on itself and it hungs the shock tower nicely.
Harry
The CC in the truck works better.
As for your termination question, KC, the battery terminal unbolts from the factory fuse box. With a ring terminal on you new lead wire to the trunk you can bolt it to the fuse box using the hole you just opened up. The connection is tight and pretty well protected as is but you could also wrap it will a little electrical tape for good measure. I wire tied the harness back on itself and it hungs the shock tower nicely.
Harry
blacksheep
Well-known member
On a side note: I just bought a kill switch from this guy selling taylor kill switches on ebay for $19.99 + $7.99 shipping. Summit had them for $25 + shipping. So, its not a bad deal. I am sure they can be had for cheaper if one looked hard enough.
https://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=803&width=400
The small fuse box that is closest to the battery terminal. (The red boot is just below it in the picture above) The two main power feeds (the starter and the rest of the car) come together at this point. Remove the battery terminal ring and attach you battery cable from the trunk to this point. No fancy item required. In fact it would be harder and less reliable if you added something to do the job.
Here is a picture of the connection at the battery in the trunk. The ground and positive connections, the 80 amp Soundstream circuit breaker, and my fuel pump relay.
If I loose the CC you will need to buy the entire controller. The bracket is welded to it.
BTW: KC most kill switches are not track legal. if that is important keep that in mind. The one Mark used is. I don't have one yet but no one has called me on it yet for two reasons. The battery is hidden beneath the floor in a sealed container and I have a steel firewall behind my back seat.
Harry
The small fuse box that is closest to the battery terminal. (The red boot is just below it in the picture above) The two main power feeds (the starter and the rest of the car) come together at this point. Remove the battery terminal ring and attach you battery cable from the trunk to this point. No fancy item required. In fact it would be harder and less reliable if you added something to do the job.
Here is a picture of the connection at the battery in the trunk. The ground and positive connections, the 80 amp Soundstream circuit breaker, and my fuel pump relay.
If I loose the CC you will need to buy the entire controller. The bracket is welded to it.
BTW: KC most kill switches are not track legal. if that is important keep that in mind. The one Mark used is. I don't have one yet but no one has called me on it yet for two reasons. The battery is hidden beneath the floor in a sealed container and I have a steel firewall behind my back seat.
Harry
blacksheep
Well-known member
Harry - Thanks a lot for the pics. I see what you mean now.
The switch I purchased is made by Taylor which said that it was the NHRA 8:1 rule approved master disconnect switch with the labeled sticker, not made of plastic etc etc etc. I will go with the taylor box which is also approved by NHRA. I may have to carry a copy of the rules to prove this stuff is NHRA approved....LOL
OK, I will buy the whole controller if you ditch cruise, gimme a good deal, though!
The switch I purchased is made by Taylor which said that it was the NHRA 8:1 rule approved master disconnect switch with the labeled sticker, not made of plastic etc etc etc. I will go with the taylor box which is also approved by NHRA. I may have to carry a copy of the rules to prove this stuff is NHRA approved....LOL
OK, I will buy the whole controller if you ditch cruise, gimme a good deal, though!
blacksheep
Well-known member
Harry - there are 2 fuse boxes. 1 big one and the other is the littler one that attaches to the stock battery with the L clamp. Which one do you mean when you say factor fuse box?
If you do pull it off altogether, I want that custom bracket.
If you do pull it off altogether, I want that custom bracket.
turbowop
Well-known member
quote:Originally posted by blacksheep:
supergvr4man - post some under hood shots, I wanna see how you isolated the power wire and fuse box so it doesnt touch any metal and arc. Did you use a battery distribution block of some sort ?
Thanks! It's pretty simple really. I mounted the battery fuse block to the side of the large fuse block by drilling two holes in each and running a sturdy cable-tie through them. I then just ran the wire from where it comes out of the fenderwell over to it and bolted it all together.
supergvr4man - post some under hood shots, I wanna see how you isolated the power wire and fuse box so it doesnt touch any metal and arc. Did you use a battery distribution block of some sort ?
Thanks! It's pretty simple really. I mounted the battery fuse block to the side of the large fuse block by drilling two holes in each and running a sturdy cable-tie through them. I then just ran the wire from where it comes out of the fenderwell over to it and bolted it all together.
quote:Only issue, it is 2" taller than the 925MJT and I am afraid it may hit the hood in the airbox location. It still eliminates having a wide 90 degree bend in the UIC pipe to the TB.
Going way back in this thread... There is not 2" of clearance to the hood with an Evans battery tray. My PC925 just barely fits - less than 1" before the battery arcs to the hood. Don't ask me how I know that.
Going way back in this thread... There is not 2" of clearance to the hood with an Evans battery tray. My PC925 just barely fits - less than 1" before the battery arcs to the hood. Don't ask me how I know that.
blacksheep
Well-known member
thanks, Kyle!
quote:Originally posted by blacksheep:
thanks, Kyle! BWAHAHAHAHAHA noob..... classic KC.
thanks, Kyle! BWAHAHAHAHAHA noob..... classic KC.
