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ball joint and tie rod removal

paul j

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
282
Location
Lone Tree, CO
Is there any way to remove these joints without a pickle fork which destroys the boot. At times(once?) I have been able to shock them loose with a heavy hammer hit but usually they get destroyed and you can not put heat on them. I have tried the lever type from auto parts stores rental but they have been too thick to get between hub and ball joint. Any tools or tricks that REALLY work-all the time? I am tired of buying new joints every time you want to remove them.
 

slugsgomoo

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Messages
3,776
Location
Tacoma, WA
hammer what they're going into once you've loosened the nut, should pop 'em free. The mistake is usually hitting the balljoint rather than the knuckle or whatnot.
 

89Mirageman

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 5, 2006
Messages
2,502
Location
Stantonsburg, NC
I've had luck with putting a block of wood under the rotor and applying some pressure with a jack and then smacking it around the ball-joint. Seems to work better this way.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
When you put the BJ nut on don't tighten the living sh*t out of it. It doesn't take that much. That usually is what causes them to get stuck if they have already been apart before.

Also antiseize is your friend too.
 

TylerAdamson

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2007
Messages
1,034
Location
Iowa City, Iowa
Smack the lower control arm and not the actual ball joint. This method always works.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
^Wrong.

Doing this can weaken the arm and possibly damage the ball joint in the process. You hit the knuckle where the BJ stud comes through. It's a tricky spot, but hitting the knuckle there while applying downward pressure on the arm is the right way.

It does help to soak the nut and stud with a good penetrating lube a few days before repairs are made. Do it everyday and it will help.
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581


good



Using two good hammers, smack the knuckle smartly

If you're good you can swing both hammers and hit the knuckle at the same time.

I'm not that good /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif


It works just as well to hold one against the knuckle and swing the other one, aiming for a spot opposite the held hammer for maximum effect.

When the swung hammer hits the knuckle, the impact will knock the held hammer away from the knuckle. (the held hammer "acts" like a dolly, and will increase the force the taper in the knuckle will "see".)

Having them opposite each other means when the impact occurs, it'll shock the taper somewhat symettrically.

The balljoint will usually free up in two or three whacks.





better



This technique requires a helper.

play nice and your wife/girlfriend will help you /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Stick a long bar over the control arm, all the way back to the unibody behind the wheel. It's best to use as long a bar as possible so it will that allows them to stand in front of the car away from any potential trauma (truck torsion bars work really well for this!)

have your helper pry down.

Give the knuckle a solid smack

when it doesn;t pop free the first time, try saying, "gee honey have you lost weight? that bastid shoulda just popped right out of there /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Smack it again, and it should free up.

be sure to leave the nut on the balljoint a few turns to prevent the helper from going ass over teacups when the balljoint breaks free. You will lose any drop panty points you *may* have gained with the last bit of deft wording

... very quickly







best



no muss, no fuss, no rough stuff

This technique works the best!

Just put some tension on it, and it'll pop free *almost* everytime easy~like

... if you have to, a gentle smack on the side of the knuckle (same place as before) will insure great success
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
^Toybreaker this is a great how to... move it to that section.

also, i love the wife/girlfriend comment as she is my helper for these kinds of things. haha
 
Last edited:

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
One thing about the popper:

I recommend using a nut on the end of the ball joint to protect the threads. If you do use one, you can mushroom the threads out from the popper.
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
That's a good point! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif





Anytime I'm going to re-use components, that's exactly what I do

I also try to tie a string/wire to the tool and hook it to something on the car so when things release the tool doesn;t go flying
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
^ do that.

I watched a guy fracture his cheek bone from one of these things. It was a nasty owwwiee.
 

paul j

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
282
Location
Lone Tree, CO
toybreaker what brand is your threaded popper? Is it a ebay $30 or the OTC expensive one that I cannot locate? Do you have any thoughts on quality of inexpensive ones?
 

G

Staff member
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
Not sure if this works on mitsus but I tried it last weekend on my crv and it worked perfectly. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif click
 
Last edited:
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