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bad front positive camber

Ben

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2009
Messages
199
Location
Lubbock, Tx
Ok, My car has been this way since I got it. It has the 5 lug conversion all the way around. My car, from what I was told, has all subframes and suspesion from a 92 awd laser. rear camber and aligment looks ok, but the front camber is terrible. The top of the tire sticks out a lot. I though maybe becuase it has eclipse suspension so I bought those evo MR bilsteins and it's the same, if not worse. What in the front suspesnion is different from a Galant to an E/T/L???
 

cheekychimp

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Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
I can't speak for your previous suspension as I have no experience with DSMs but your MR suspension will definitely cause this because of the different suspension geometry involved. If you are willing to spend the cash and dependent upon the amount of movement you need to create, camber plates might be an answer. If that isn't enough or if you are stuck with non-adjustable strut tops, then you have to go down to the knuckle to effect some changes. If I recall correctly the holes in the ears of the struts have to be slotted and the extra movement this allows used to adjust camber. Once you have it where you want it you need hardened washers welded over the slots to hold the bolt (and therefore the strut) firmly in the correct position without movement.

I went through all of this with the GTi in the UK.
 

raptorWagon

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Joined
May 17, 2007
Messages
2,827
Location
Oak Harbor, WA
There is a 1 degree difference between the front lower control and a DSM, not much at all and sure won't cause that much of a difference if it's really bad. I think in this case a picture might help to see just how much positive camber you have.
 

GSTwithPSI

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Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
So you say the top of the tire sticks out a lot, which would indicate to me your camber is grossly positive. Is this what you mean? Usually, in the case of a car that's been lowered, negative camber usually suffers greatly, not positive. Extremely positive camber would suggest to me that something is definitely wrong with either the parts currently installed, or something else strange causing this. Pictures of whats going on here would definitely help. Aslo, do you know if there are aftermarket camber adjuster bolts installed in the front (2 eccentric bolts where the strut assembly bolts to the steering knuckle)? If so, a loose or mis-adjusted eccentric camber bolt could possibly cause this.

Camber Bolt:
handr_camber.gif


Basic Camber + and -
images
 

cheekychimp

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Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
When I put MR suspension on my GTi I got exactly that, ridiculous positive camber.
 

GSTwithPSI

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Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
Quoting cheekychimp:
When I put MR suspension on my GTi I got exactly that, ridiculous positive camber.



Hmmmm... What components are involved in a MR suspension swap? And what did you do to correct your camber issues? Thanks.
 

Ben

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2009
Messages
199
Location
Lubbock, Tx
yes positive.
I just need to figure out the difference in the eclipse suspension and replace that piece.
I'm not understanding the "1 degree" difference with the lower control arm. When I look for lower control arms on ebay, the same part number fits any 1g eclipse or galant. Also what degree? Maybe if there was a length difference because one of them has a little wider nose.

There are no eccentric bolts that were or are installed. The holes in the knuckle have a 12mm diameter and the holes in the struts have a 14mm diameter. So I put the bolts in and pushed on the top of the rotor to get it the camber as far negative as possible and tightened the bolts. Still positive. These have stock MR springs as well.
 

Ben

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Joined
Jan 14, 2009
Messages
199
Location
Lubbock, Tx
I'm just going to notch the top hole in the strut to get what I need. My toe is also out. I'll put it on the alignment rack and see what I have and make adjustments from there.
 

gtluke

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Joined
Sep 16, 2001
Messages
4,210
Location
dirty jersey
I notched the holy hell out of my MR struts to get the camber I wanted.
 

ktmrider

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Joined
Sep 10, 2007
Messages
3,128
Location
Tempe, AZ
Quoting Ben:
These have stock MR springs as well.

Stock MR springs/struts on a GVR4 = massive positive camber.

Remember the suspension parts do not move straight up/down but in an arc. Push the lower control arm down ( due to longer and/or stiffer spring rate ) and the wheel follows the arc. Pivot point is the lower ball joint for both steering and suspension angle changes.

Cut the spring by one coil or install TEL upper spring perches ( they sit higher than the GVR4 items ).
 

Ben

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2009
Messages
199
Location
Lubbock, Tx
I notched the upper hole a little. I know that is not the best way of doing it, but I got done what I needed and got my front toe adjusted. I need to adjust my rear toe as well. The pass side was a hair out. I was able to get both front wheels in the -1 to -1.5 camber range. I'm happy with the camber and ride hieght all the way around. Now time to launch this thing!
 
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