AWD Chrome moly crossmember w/ roll stop ?

[raptorWagon]

I had a friend ask me about these being compatible on a GVR4, these are for a 1G DSM, and well I'm just not sure as far as strength and support behind these custom front cross members would be. Tuners Threadclick
I won't be using this, just looking for some insight from the community.

I haven't seen anything wrong with our stock setups for a need for custom crossmembers. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[dsmgst]

i would like more info on these as well.

their lighter and cleaner/less bulkier looking!

 

[broxma]

What would be nice would be a multi (single) piece gusset reinforced frame which integrated the other braces. The pieces could bolt together on plates welded to the tubing. Seems like an easy project honestly. I'll call my guy this summer. Looks like something we could bust out in a day or two.

/brox

 

[DougPorcaro]

There is a member on here who has one like that on his galant. I can't find the picture nor do I remember who it was. I do remember messaging him asking where he got it, and no response. That looks exactly like the one he ran so maybe it fits?

 

I've talked till paul (the guy making these) be says he has a couple of gvr4 guys using these. I'll be buying mine next week.

Jesse

 

[onesickcrx]

I would love to have some extra room under my car. So something like this would be great, if it all could still all bolt together that is.

 

[JSchleim18]

Is this OK to use for say autox or road racing?

 

[blacksheep]

Don't see why it shouldn't work unless lengths are off. Durbaility wise - looks very similar to the AMS piece for EVo VIII/IX that I had. It runs front to back and includes a motor mount bolt point. Definitely lighter than the stock piece.

 

[JSchleim18]

The reason I ask is because it gets rid of the 2 beams that parallel with the car so I thought it would ruin some of the strength?

 

[onesickcrx]

^100% agreed^

 

Here is some info on the bar


only have ONE of these for sale right now, regardless of the last picture.
It's made of 1.500 x 0.83" chrome moly tubing. Fully TIG welded.

This allows you to completely remove the north-south bars that connect this to the front subframe. Many DSMers have successfully removed those bars on street cars and drag race cars. Retaining them may help on an auto-x car or where hard cornering is common practice, so this crossmember won't be of benefit for those guys. But if you're looking to lose some front-end weight on your drag/street 1G, this will help.

This piece only weighs 5.1 lbs total. That's approximately 20-25 lbs lighter than the three factory bars. This piece bolts up using the existing factory studs and nuts. In addition to weight savings it is also a much smaller diameter to allow more room for a larger turbo, intercooler piping, side-exit exhaust, etc...

This is chromoly so it will never rust through. And you can paint/powdercoat it to match your vehicle.

Price is $165.
Shipping and insurance will run $18 to the continuous 48 states.

If interested, please PM me here, or e-mail me at [email protected].

Thanks,
-Paul-

 

[jepherz]

I agree that this is much smaller than the factory front bar, but where's the proof that it's any better than just deleting the front-rear bars? If just removing that small plate on the passenger side has proven to cause tears in front subframe, I'll keep all of my subframe in tact or come up with a replacement for all 3 bars.

Like KC said, it's similar (same materials) as the AMS bar, but that one just replaces a factory support.

 

[grocery_getter]

I have had seen and fixed 2 cars without the 2 parallel bars installed.

One was on a awd 1g dsm and the other is a white 91 gvr4, both local cars. The 1g awd cars I have to weld the subframe together to fixed it, the gvr4 i have to completely replaced the front subframe since it is completely sheared in two. We saw the crack on the 1g awd dsm and able to get to it to fix the problem before it cracked all the way, on the gvr4 it was towed in on a flat bed to the shop with the driver side wheel pointing outward and crushing the fender lip when the subframe completely collapsed from under the car. The owner was very lucky it happen at the parkin glot when he was about to pull out from the spot. The gvr4 subframe had to be replaced. In fact I think I bought the replacement subframe from Barnes. (right?) Both cars were missing the 2 parallel bars. Both cars also received a replacement pair of the parallel bars as part of the fix.


It always ended up cracking the subframe right where the box opening for the power steering shaft goes thru. One of the cars also have a crack on the subframe on the passenger side right underneath where the carbon canister is located. Bad idea not to run the parallel bars they help immensely for strengthening the subframe. Unlike the fully boxed up evo8/9 front subframes, ours are a downward clamshell design with the opening in the middle where you mount the steering rack and sway bar, these 2 parts, the steering rack and sway bar exerts a lot of torque on the open design subframe, add to that the suspension loading torque as well. The bars that goes parallel, as well as tieing the front motor torque bar to the subframe also tie the two lip of the subframe together, boxing it, for strength.

Adding a means to bolt on the 2 parallel bars to the motor mount chromoly bar will be a great thing to do.

The evo8/9 north south bars dont do anything for subframe stiffness, after all it mounts to the subframe with only one bolt on the back and a second bolt which is also the middle bolt for the small front subframe tie bar (which I suspect is there for the rigidity of the north south bar itself instead of being there to boost up the rigidity of the subframe.) It is an easy thing to say that the AMS north south bar is a good replacement for the evo8/9 factory piece but I beg to differ on the 2 parallel bars on the gvr4 or 1G dsm cars.

Can you imagine if this failure take place on the freeway at high speed or at the track? Not only you are endangering yourself by improperly re-engineering the factory subframe structural member, you are also endangering your passenger and other driver's life and family on the street.

 

[curtis]

^ I agree with Andre on this as well. The engine and trans isn't made of plastic and the torque generated by launch is way greater than just crusing down the road. With manufacturers cutting every corner they can to save money I'm sure plenty of analysis was put into these from the factory and need to be there if they put them there. Think about it this way if the two bars are 250 to replace from the dealer I'm sure they only have 40 in them. Now multiply 40 times a million cars, You really think they'll spend 40 mill if they didn't have to.

 

[gmp]

Quoting porcaro:
There is a member on here who has one like that on his galant. I can't find the picture nor do I remember who it was. I do remember messaging him asking where he got it, and no response. That looks exactly like the one he ran so maybe it fits?



i think it was busteddsm that i had seen one of these on busteddsm brace

 

[4nmscle]

i have one of these crossmembers and i love it. im not a very big auto cross guy so that helps. you can fell the rigidity of it in sharp turns under heavy acceleration. i will try to get a pic up real quick.

 

No way would I give up two structure support beams just to lose some weight. Buy a cf hood instead.

 

[NateCrisman]

get rid of the beams AND buy a CF hood. I'm going to run this bar on my drag car, but I planto cut the north/south bars and only use the rear mounting holes that box the subframe.

 

I guess I just dont understand stuff like this. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif Turn up the boost, buy a lighter car, or at what point are you happy with the performance of it? 165 bucks for a bar of metal that looks more dangerous than any performance gains you will see.

 

This part wouldn't be such fail if the guy who made it welded some stout tabs to the main bar and made two other bars to attach to the main bar and the other attachment points further back. This way you have the support that mitsu engineers designed into the chassis.

It may not save as much weight, 1 lb or maybe even only in the ounzes but it would still free up room under there\ and you wouldn't sacrificing chassis integrity.