Autocross suspension setup

[Brianawd]

Quote:
I'm pretty sure Brian already has ksports (same thing as d2 just orange) and I'm guessing he's looking for something that's a bit more suited to turning... maybe with separate compression & rebound settings perhaps.



Yes I do have ksports. Works great for what I have been using the car for but not going to work for autocross. The valving on the shocks is all wrong. I know for sure I want new coil overs with separate compression and rebound for sure.

After driving the car this weekend I still want to autocross the car but I just can't bring my self to give up the power of the 3052. So for now I'm just going to replace the coilovers and all the bushings. Pick up some new wheels and some v710s and see how things go from there.

 

[4thStroke]

Let me know when you run, Brian. I want to be there for this.

 

[Brianawd]

Quote:
Let me know when you run, Brian. I want to be there for this



For sure, Its going to be a little tricky at first. I'm going to try and autocross with the welded CD for a little bit then go to a 4spider and a front LSD.

 

[slugsgomoo]

Brian, I know it's a crazy thought, but would say something like a 34mm rally restrictor in the intake help in terms of low end grunt & torque under the curve? I know one of the byproducts the rally guys have is that they can't rev to the moon (not enough flow) but they tend to have tons of power down low even with massive turbos.

What's dallas running on his 2g these days, I thought 3052 as well? Though he's got a 2.4L 9:1 right?

 

[kartorium]

Don't bother getting new coilovers yet, just raise the car up and spend the money on new big (no less than 255) tires and wheels.

Weld up the rear toe.

Get some caster bushings or modify the upper front mount to add caster as well.

Install smaller turbo.

Who gives a crap what class you're in, it's your first real season. Run novice, if they have such a class, until they kick you out. Then run SM. If you end up in prepared, who gives a crap, you're not going for nationals anyway.

Learn to Drive. Have fun.

Spend money on it after a season.

Oh, and listen to Dallas! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Brianawd]

Quote:
Oh, and listen to Dallas



I am listing to Dallas. He says the ksports have to go. I don't think you know how bad they are.


Slugs: Dallas is runing a 9.0:1 2.4 with a evo3 and cyclone intake manifold.

 

[kartorium]

Alright then, just sucks you have to get new ones. The cash for new suspension would be about right for some nice wheels/tires.

 

[belize1334]

The ksports aren't gonna cut it but if you're new to autocross that might not matter for your first season. But, by the end of the season the shocks will be dead which will kill resale if that's part of your plan.

Honestly, some Konis with a set of GC coilovers (get custom with longer springs) and some GC camber plates would probably take you at least a couple of seasons to outgrow. And I really don't think that welding the trailing arm is necessary. Some ES bushings will take out 95% of the current slop.

Also, you may not want to drop the cash on v710s just yet. Learning on a slicker tire may ultimately make you a better driver faster. Plus, you're gonna wear out an expensive set of tires in one summer before you've even figured out how to be fast. I'd just drive your street tires to the chord first, then replace them with a serious race tire.

 

[Brianawd]

So I have autocrossed before. Fact is I used to do it all the time. But after I moved away from a 16g I stopped autocrossing.



Quote:
Honestly, some Konis with a set of GC coilovers (get custom with longer springs) and some GC camber plates would probably take you at least a couple of seasons to outgrow. And I really don't think that welding the trailing arm is necessary. Some ES bushings will take out 95% of the current slop.

Also, you may not want to drop the cash on v710s just yet. Learning on a slicker tire may ultimately make you a better driver faster. Plus, you're gonna wear out an expensive set of tires in one summer before you've even figured out how to be fast. I'd just drive your street tires to the chord first, then replace them with a serious race tire.




As for buying a set of GC. Really don't want to waste the money just to run that set up knowing I'm going to change it out in a year or so.

When it comes to driving the car I don't think its going to take me that long to get used to it. 2weekends ago I was the co driver for my friend Dallas. 2g, 2.4, evo3 16g,. He runs a set of 275 v710. Now Dallas is really good. most of the time he is 1st or 2nd in his class. At the end of the day I was only 1.3secs behind his best in a car I had never driven before.

 

1.4 sec /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif. click

Actually, I was really impressed how close our times were. You Definitely improved each run by big margins. About me, Ive been autocrossing the same car for 6 years. Win SM regionally with SCCA every year and usually run within the top 5-10% depending who shows up. I definitely feel regionally competitive but I'm stepping up my game next year to see how I fare against the National crew in a BSP Evo. Im a Mech Engineer, did FSAE suspension for a year, and always have crazy ideas that lead to things like a 4g64 that drives like an N/A car over 2500rpms. Whats lag?

I registered here to try and find info on those Ksports, but its pretty doubtful anyone will have shock dyno's and plots for various adjustments. Just judging by the ride quality, Its overdamped in compression for sure. I cant find much real info on the hotbits but it is a monotube with individual rebound/compression adjustment (For the DT2, not the DT1) so its at least in the right regime of what I'd consider. I would like to see a shock dyno though, hard to spend $2k on something before you actually have info on things like damping forces and what happens when you turn those little knobs.

 

[slugsgomoo]

I think there are actually some shock dynos of the hotbits posted on the forums here somewhere. If I remember right Larry (??) who had a white rally prepped evo was a US dealer for hotbits and had some of that available.

p.s. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hay.gif

 

[vr4play]

I am running the koni G/C setup and it actually doesn't do bad. I have 2g rear shocks as they are externally adjustable and bolt right up. I am running 500lbs front and 550lbs rear springs with a 24mm rear bar and 22mm front bar. I run -3.2 deg of front camber and -1.5 deg rear camber. The car turns very well. The only real problem I have is consistent braking without abs. I contribute most of that to our crappy lot though. The shocks are on the edge with those spring rates so I plan on next year modifying my shock housings to install double adjustable koni race shocks. The fronts are easy but I haven't figured out the rear yet. I have a friend at a machine shop so I may just get some custom housing made. Also you could get some kw's for an evo and just modify to fit.

 

[KiNgMaRtY]

Really???? This is the first I hear of this. 2g rears bolt right into the 1g/VR-4 rear? Are the struts the same length? If so then I assume that may be the reason why Koni is discontinuing the rears for the 1g. I have a 1g specific set and hate how you have to take out the rear struts to adjust them. I left mine the way they came

 

[vr4play]

I believe they may be a little shorter but if you are lowering your car that is a good thing. They also have better dampening than the 1g rears and you have to make your own bracket to hold the brake line. I am using ground controls and they are working great. My shop is only about half hour from Koni North America and a lot of the guys who work there bring there cars to us for alignments. I called and talked to one of the guys I know there after I had my 1g shocks here and we got a 2g in and I set the shocks next to each other and thought they would work. He agreed and swapped me out. The awesome thing was the 2g rears were cheaper. The shaft is bigger so you have to use the sleeve that is supplied with the shock in the upper mount. I am not sure if they would work for a car without coilovers but if I remember right the perches looked like they would be close.

 

[KiNgMaRtY]

Thanks for the info. I may try a 2g rear set in the future /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

Hmm, Interesting about the 2g Koni's in the rear.

Im about to pull off my koni/gc's from the talon and put the stock suspension back on. We can try a test fit on Brians galant to see what it will take to make it work.