Anyone using ECMLink to control rad fans?

[EfiniX]

With the air cooling off, getting my radiator fans to turn on when they should and not when the temps sensor hits 140F has become a priority.

Has anyone actually wired up a 1g to use the new Link fan control? It looks like you hook EGR-s pin 53 to the fan relay. I'm guessing it's a ground switch. Then set your thresholds in link.

Any gotchas? Experiences? etc?

 

[marvinmadman]

I posted a thread about pin 53. The wire is there but it's not supposed to be according to online pinout diagrams. I have my FPS wire to turn on the Rad fan though. I wanted to use the EGR to kick on the AC fan, just wanted to tap into the magical wire under the hood if I could. No response from my pin 53 thread though. I seen it was used for Cyclone activation on our cars. I've even used that pin on my 91 vr4 for cyclone activation...

 

[EfiniX]

Well I figure my first step will be to tap wire 53 and put a multimeter on it to measure for voltage. I know the "Misc" tab in link has a button to activate the EGR pin, so I figure I can just hook up and click that button to check. Nice of them to think of that since it will let you validate the fan control (or whatever else you might try to hook up) without warming up/cooling down the car.

I'm more curious about what pin 53 is actually doing when it's "activated" since this will determine exactly where on the fan relay it gets hooked up.

 

[CutlassJim]

Any wire ECU activated is always to ground.

 

[marvinmadman]

^That was my assumption. But I want to find that pin 53 wire's termination point and hopefully it's under the hood so I don't have to cut and tap then run through the firewall with another wire.

 

[turbowop]

You just run a wire from the ECU pin that ECMlink uses as an output and tap into the ground wire for the fan relay under the hood near the stock battery location. Then set the parameters in 'link to have that output pull the relay to ground at whatever coolant temp you want.

 

[donniekak]

I have two spal fans triggered by the ecu. They are triggered by the egr, and fps, outputs. One comes on at 165, and one at 190. They also both shut off at wot to help keep voltage up for my fuel pump.

 

[strokin4dr]

I ran a jumper wire from the FPS to the green wire on the connector at the coolant temp sensor at the bottom of the radiator.

It's really easy, just unplug the connector from the coolant temp sensor and it will almost reach the FPS wire along the frame rail. My jumper wire is about 4" long. I used a male spade connector at one end and a male pin from a spare coil pack connector on the other. Plugs right in and sealed it with heatshrink. Works perfectly with my ECMlink settings.

 

[thomcasey]

Bringing back an older thread. I have setup a relay for powering my 14" pusher. Is the idea to use the FPR wire to pull the relay ground and activate it?

Also, how to you configure the settings in link? I see the temp control, but not sure how to configure it and the other settings.

 

[Gtpdz]

Here is my setup, basically the lower end of the coolant temp is what determine what temp the fan should kick on, you can experiment with this value to see what best suits you, also speed is a determine factor as well, put it under 35 mph and it should be fine. Low RPM should be somewhere lower than idle and more than zero, so the fan won't kick on when engine is off but key is still in. The other parameters just set them from lowest to full (default) range.

Lastly set the state change limit as high as you can to prevent the fan from bouncing between on/off state too quickly.

 

[thomcasey]

thanks!! Now, am I correct to use the FPR signal for the ground on the relay or doe it go to the switch power for it?

 

[Gtpdz]

The fpr just gets grounded on the ECU side, it's the top - pin on the FPR T socket. So use it to ground relay only.

 

[strokin4dr]

That's how I ran mine. I unplugged the harness going to the temp sensor on the radiator, then make a super fancy double male jumper wire. One end plugs into the temp switch harness, the other into the FPS harness. Then I set my parameters in ecmlink similar Gtpdz's settings above. No hacking of wires, and completely reversible if I ever want to put it back to stock configuration.
Good luck!
-Ryan

 

[Gtpdz]

Similar set up, i actually made a male to male and female connector and connect the fpr plug to both the fan control harness and the water temp switch on the t stat housing, so I can use ecu to control fan and the switch still functions as a fail safe.

 

[strokin4dr]

Very nice! Sounds like a good idea. If my car were a daily drive I would definitely do the same.

I have my CEL set to trip at 212°, and have a second "rear de-fog switch" wired to switch on the AC fan just in case something fails and I see the dash light or temp gauge going crazy.

 

[thomcasey]

Quoting Gtpdz:
The fpr just gets grounded on the ECU side, it's the top - pin on the FPR T socket. So use it to ground relay only.



Excellent. My plug is missing, but the solid red wire has switched 5v on it, so I will use the white wire (with maroon dots) to pull the ground on the relay (It does trace to pin 57 on the ECU).

This is good stuff. Something is funky with the factory fan wiring as it has power but would never spin the stock or any other fan when it was supposed to. So I am using a 30amp relay mounted right beside my Hella horn relay where the battery used to live.

Shoot, I might even install an extra 10-12" pusher and set the EGR to run it at a higher temp in case this 14" is insufficient. I have noticed that the stock fan (1600cfm) definitely cooled better than the 14" pusher (1030cfm), but is still cools well. Just might need the extra cooling when stuck in traffic or in line at the shootout.

 

[mooserage]

Quoting strokin4dr:
That's how I ran mine. I unplugged the harness going to the temp sensor on the radiator, then make a super fancy double male jumper wire. One end plugs into the temp switch harness, the other into the FPS harness. Then I set my parameters in ecmlink similar Gtpdz's settings above. No hacking of wires, and completely reversible if I ever want to put it back to stock configuration.
Good luck!
-Ryan



Any chance of posting a picture, I'm really interested in seeing how you all solved this, but I just can't picture this /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Thanks

 

[Gtpdz]

What kind of picture? The simplest way of configure that is just one wire running from the fan switch plug to the fpr plug, if you can't find them here are some service diagram to help:

Number 4 in this one for the fan switch



And number A-46-2 in this one for fpr solenoid plug



The fpr plug is a 2 pin T shape plug, with a red and a white wire, white one goes to the ECU ground.

 

[strokin4dr]

I have mine connected to only operate the engine cooling fan. Yours is set up to kick on both fans by grounding the #4 switch on the t-stat housing, correct?

 

[thomcasey]

Well, using the settings and connecting the FPR wire to the ground pin on the relay was a fail. Still won't kick on using the FPR wire as a ground. I am thinking I am using the wrong wire (although I believe it pinned out. Where on the engine bay would I expect the FPR solenoid to reside so I can be sure I am finding the correct wire? Ny car came gutted and had to have the harness replaced.

Pin 30 - Battery
Pin 85 - Ground (or Pin 57 from ECU)
Pin 86 - Switched 12v
Pin 87 - Feed to Fan