anyone live near me

[BpuVR4]

Quoting chop91vr4:
I traded my 2005 kaw 636 I had all done up. and everyone one knows I didn't do the colors but they just are not my first worries, and I have already taken care of the crappy vacuum line plugs



not ragging on you...just marveling at what some people invest their energy into while neglecting other things.

 

[chop91vr4]

Bpuvr4 the pic of the ams chip give you anything on help on why when it's installed it runs like dog poop and idles around 2500? Also does anyone around my area know anyone who can rebuild the rear diff my seals are shot she's leaking and also rebuild my front diff so I can be back at awd because on of the past owners thought welding the spider gears solid was a good idea. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[coyotes]

Looks like it is setup for 11:1 compression? Or am I wrong. that may have something to do with it if you don't have that set up in your engine. If it runs like crap I'd say don't run it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif save up and get link or something that can be fine tuned.

 

[LIV4PSI]

11:1 is the target air/fuel ratio

 

[chop91vr4]

If I buy a DSMlink v3 from ECM Tuning would it convert over the old OBD1 to a OBD2? or will there be a cable that will allow my laptop to connect through the OBD1, I've looked around on the website and it really doesn't say much about OBD1. And would I be able to use the socketed ECU that currently has the AMS chip in it? ANYONE know? I sent in a email to ECM tuning but I don't wanna wait a week or more to know if anyone knows.

 

[iceman69510]

That is a keydiver chip and the 11:1 indicates that it has the lean burn function for steady state cruising included.

 

[slugsgomoo]

Quoting chop91vr4:
If I buy a DSMlink v3 from ECM Tuning would it convert over the old OBD1 to a OBD2? or will there be a cable that will allow my laptop to connect through the OBD1, I've looked around on the website and it really doesn't say much about OBD1. And would I be able to use the socketed ECU that currently has the AMS chip in it? ANYONE know? I sent in a email to ECM tuning but I don't wanna wait a week or more to know if anyone knows.



ECMLink will install in your current ECU with a socketed eprom, though I'd consider spending the extra to send it to them for a once over and any necessary repairs.

It'll still be OBD1, not OBD2, and ECMLink includes a cable that goes from the diag port to USB.

I also recommend testing the ISC to insure it ohms correctly and eliminating the FIAV before bothering with having an ecu repaired, since if it's bad you'll be having it repaired anyway. I have some posts on here about it but long story short FIAV leaks on the ISC, causing it to short out and then destroying driver chips inside the ecu... $$$. You can delete FIAV for free (well the cost of two gaskets) and it's easy peasy.

 

[chop91vr4]

okay so I have cleaned up the vac lines no more screws lol, just finished up bypassing the fiav coolant lines and twisting in the fiav spring adjustment all the way, so we will see how she runs tomorrow. ordered seals and bearings for the rear diff and mits still offers a front diff gear kit got that coming along with seals and just for fixing broken things need torsion bars for the deck lid.

 

[chop91vr4]

so drove it to work this morning and idled around 100-1100 will check it again this afternoon and it was plenty up to temp. I'm posting a pick because you can see the factory tach reading a higher number then my a/m tach which hooked up to the ecu on the correct wire. my question there is, is the factory tach just not accurate? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[chop91vr4]

 

[Lancer99]

Hey just saw this but I knew the previous previous owner. Yes so the owner before you bought it from. I tried to help him out with it and well yea he was kind of a redneck and didnt know much about these. At first he was having a shifting issue and I told him he would have to take it apart to see what was wrong with it. He didn't and continue to drive like that for a couple months. Finally it was getting harder to shift, he then took the whole trans and engine out and starting to take it apart. Come to find out when he put the engine back in the first place, he left 4 out of the 6 flywheel bolts loose. Instead of fixing it, he decided to paint the engine green and everything green. Are the sunvisors still an ugly green? Finally he traded for a bike and thats the last I saw it. That was about a year ago.

 

[chop91vr4]

lancer99

yes one of the visors are green, it still has a shifting issue at anything other then just babying it into 2nd it grinds. I'm going to rebuild the front diff & make it awd again and going through the rear diff cause it leaks, also did the FIAV bypass, fixed the oil cooler bypass leaks, replacing the oil return line because the flex part of the tube leaks, cleaned up his or someone's vacuum line capped off with screws in the end of a cut off piece of line, & I'm still trying to figure my way out through this high idle issue some times it will idle around 890-980, but usually it idles like the pic, and then I can't find anyone to tell me if the factory tach is rated high as you can see 2 different readings. I've gotten rid of some of the green under the hood left the copper color though I like that look. hmm let see what else. fixed the fuel line leak into the rail(wrong size and tore gasket) and then I am also changing out the factory rail for a AEM rail to get the flow there better, the chipped ECU doesn't work for sh-t so it is out I'm going to buy a DSMLink v3 for it. And then rebuild the 16g evo turbo to put it back on the car, I got to have the exhaust welded up solid it is all hacked together and leaks like crazy! I would love any input or help

 

[BpuVR4]

did you try tightening all the vband clamps all along the the intercooler piping? again if you do the boost leak test this would tell the story, but you can start there.

also test the isc coil, if it's bad it will end up ruining the ecu.

does the rpm come down later on after driving for awhile? if so, i'd check the thermostat, maybe it's not warming up all the way.

 

[chop91vr4]

BpuVr4
Not sure why your post don't have quote but this in reply to your last post, I tested the isc it's fine all coils seem read 30 or just above. I got to do a boost leak still but I just happened to have a coolant hose fail today so I'm fixing that first

 

[chop91vr4]

Quoting chop91vr4:
just got a hold of a 91 with lots of motor mods (don't have the current list handy) but I am new to this motor and not sure all the stuff they did to it was correct or a hack job. looking for some people in my area that may be able to help me out.


.
WELL I got my high figured out, unscrewed the biss screw they had it out too far, only thing now is top of lower rad hose is leaking changed the hose new clamp still leaking, but the guy before me painted the cooling pipes green so might have a spot not sealing or poss it's cracked. Back to the idle got to get the exhaust leaks fixed the vacuum leak check cause I have a erratic idle thinking brake booster leak when holding the pedal down is when it because more apperant.