Another AWS line removal Q with pics

[TWEAKD4]

I have searched through about every post on this and I just wanted to make sure. I wanted to make sure I do this right and this may help others.

This pic is the same as the AWS removal/4 bolt install under the how to section. The circled red line gets replaced with a oil pan plug. This is one of the two high pressure lines and this pic can only be seen if you remove the plate under the trans. The blue arrow is the 2nd high pressure line that runs through rubber along the front rack to the drivers side.

This is where it meets the rack on the drivers side. The blue circle is the same blue line above. It wasn't covered in anything that I have read but I assume this also needs blocked off with a oil pan plug. Very little room here. It won't be fun to remove this line.

These are the two low pressure lines. They run over the front control arm and I can't see where they go. I belive they go to the PS reservoir. I will have to try to find where they go to block off. Does anyone know which of the many lines at the reservoir need plugged? I have a TEL reservoir that I was going to swap but I have read that the idiot light won't work with it.

I found a good post on welding the lines if you don't use the oil pan plug from Rob at Mofugas HERE. I always thought you just bend over the lines where you cut them off and weld them.

 

[chucklesas]

The 2 lines circled in green come up next to the windshield washer bottle, then loop around the engine bay and come in at the bottom of the reservior.

 

[Hertz]

Quote:
if you don't use the oil pan plug from Rob at Mofugas



Mofugas closed a few years ago, but I'm sure there are other sources. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[TWEAKD4]

I know they closed but I should have phrased that better. It should read "if you don't use an oil pan plug try this method in this post by Rob at Mofugas."

Is the driver's side line correct that needs plugged as well? Just want to make sure.

 

[Muskrat]

You need to plug BOTH high pressure lines. When I did I could only plug one with a oil pan plug, the other I just cut and had welded shut.

You need to either plug or loop the 2 lines that go to the reserviour, or replace it with a tel. I looped them so I don't know about the idiot light not working if you replace it.

 

[atc250r]

If you replace it with a TEL reservoir the idiot light will not work becuase the cap from the GVR4 is what makes it work. The GVR4 cap will not fit the TEL reservoir so therefore the light won't work. It may work if you get a regular Galant one but I don't know.

John

 

[Ian M]

You can block the drivers side line at the "T" thats in the center of the rack. There is a short line going to the "T",just block the port coming out. Its way easier to get to. Plug that,and the outlet on the passenger side.

Some folks have mentioned having to cut the drain plugs to keep them from bottoming out before sealing. I didnt have to,but the plugs I used are aftermarket replacements I got from work,and they may have possibly been shorter.

 

[TWEAKD4]

Well for the archives I finished blocking everything off. Boy everyone is right this is a mess. I couldn't believe just how many lines it took to run the AWS system. I used new oil pan bolts from NAPA part #704-1920 to plug the two high pressure lines. I plugged this at the T described by Ian in the post above. It is right under the transfer case near the yoke.


The low pressure lines ran up into the engine bay under the washer reservoir bottle, under the air box/battery. They ran under the radiator to the PS reservoir. I couldn't just loop the lines there because the were two different sizes. My solution was to crush the unused outlets, weld them shut and for good measure put JB weld on the ends if there were any pin holes. I repainted it and here it is now.


Thanks for all the input and I hope this will help someone else when they go to pull the AWS lines.