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Almost nothing happens when I turn the key

chucklesas

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Feb 14, 2003
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1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
Well, I thought I had all the wiring hooked up. There are still a few things that are not plugged in: all front lights (fogs, headlamps, corner markers, turnsignals), windshield wiper, a/c, and ABS components.
Anyway, I hook up the battery and here's what happens:
When I unlock the doors with a key all of them unlock.
When I push the lock down my security light comes on (I thought I had disabled that /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif). So far so good.
The door light and dome light come on and the setbelt goes to the door open position.
I can turn the lights on, I get cluster/dash lights, tail lights and flashers... corner markers and headlights are not installed.
Put in the key and I get the key buzzer.
THATs the stuff that seems to work.

Turn ignition to ACC, no change. no clock, no fan.
Turn ignition to ON, no change. no 4 beep warning that the setbelt is coming to strangle me.
Turn ignition to start, no change. (clutch in, clutch out, it doesn't matter)
Seatbelts do not return to door closed position.

So I started checking for voltage and continuity with ignition in OFF.
Get 12.4 at the battery.
Get 12.4 on both ends of most of the engine bay fuses, except for tails, fogs, and high beams. Those are zero.
I get 12.4 volts to SOME of the chassis fuses. Unfortunately I wasn't keeping track of which ones were getting voltage and which were not. I figured it doesn't really matter since some of those I'm assuming would switch on with the ignition key (or should they all always have power?).
I unplug all the wires going to the ignition switch and start looking for +12 there. I think I get it on 4 red wires in the 2 harnesses with the smaller gauge wire. I found one or 2 wires in the larger gauge wire harnesses that how about .14 volts. Weird.
So I hook the harnesses back in and test for power at the cigarette lighter in the OFF, ACC, ON, and start positions. If I remember correctly in OFF I get .14 volts, in ACC I get .14 volts, in ON I get .06 volts, in start I get .14 volts and then when I go back to on it now read .01 volts.

I can't figure out if something is grounded out or what the deal is. With just the door open and an ammeter hooked up in series I get .54 amps.

I'm going to have to print out some schematics and try to tackle this again this weekend, but figure I'd post this to see if anyone else has any ideas what may have gone wrong when swapping in a new front bay harness and engine wiring harness.
 
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sleepyvr4

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Dec 25, 2003
Messages
2,359
Location
Key West
I was pissing with my Laser the other day removing crap testing to see if everything still works - check the little gold relay mammer jammer (probably near the ecu in a galant). Mine was in the center under the temp controls and radio. Has about 8-10 pinout. Might be the culprit.

???
 

chucklesas

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Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
I guess I can try swapping in another MPI relay, but I would think I still get at least accessories without it even hooked up.

I should also add that I get the door open light on my gauge cluster and the security light. Nothing else seems to come on.
 

Rausch

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Dec 21, 2004
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12,049
Location
Cleveland, OH
Quote:
I found one or 2 wires in the larger gauge wire harnesses that how about .14 volts. Weird.

That is indicative of the root of your issue. IIRC you *should* have 12v. there, at least on one end for sure. Maybe go back through the fuses and see which ones you have 12v to and which you don't.

It almost sounds like something is grounding out somewhere, maybe a bad connection at the fusebox or something.
 

chucklesas

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Feb 14, 2003
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Dayton, OH
Firewalled... I couldn't track down my DSM CD last night, and I'm not allowed to plug flash drives into my work computer, it was too big to email to myself and I can't access the Lilevo site either because its categorization is "none." I want to print out the Galant electrical diagrams for the ignition system (basically the 4 harnesses that plug into the ignition switch). If someone can somehow upload them here I'd appreciate it. If not I guess I'll just have to drag a laptop out to the car and play around with it that way.
 

chucklesas

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Feb 14, 2003
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1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
Would not having the capacitor on the intake manifold grounded cause this? I just remembered I never hooked that back up. I doubt it would. We'll see when I get home I guess.
 

chucklesas

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Feb 14, 2003
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1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
Narrowed it down some. I get no power on the White Wire going to the ignition. I should have 12v, I assume. I get 12v on both sides of the fuse at the sublink, but nothing on that white wire in the ignition harness. I tried to do a continuity check on the wire at the sublink and I seem to get several ohms of resistance. The number varies though. It seems to increase as I continue to check. I may be a low battery in my multi-meter causing weird readings though.

Does this wire go to anything else before getting to the ignition harness. I'd like to avoid unraveling the wire harness if somebody can clue me in on the next thing to check.




 
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chucklesas

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Feb 14, 2003
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Location
Dayton, OH
I think I finally figured it out. I just looked at the old harness that I pulled out of the car; there are 4 connectors that come in through the firewall on the driver's side. I think I only have 3 of the 4 hooked up. The 4th would connect to the plug that I have a question mark on earlier in this post. Hopefully I won't have to pull the dash back apart to get in there. Unfortunately it's raining right now so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to check it out.

I was able to work through the rain a bit and get my front suspension and brakes in. Getting closer :-|

Edit: apparently that was another thread I had about wires:


Original Thread
 
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chucklesas

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Feb 14, 2003
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1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
That was it. Look for video of car running tomorrow /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
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