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Afpr / Oil leaks need help Anyone?

So I need to get a afpr(have rewired walbro255 and 850cc injectors) etc to complete my fuel setup. I am assuming this setup would also work for the galantvr4.
click
Would this be a correct assumption and is this a good price for this kit? Also does anyone here blow out gaskets due to excessive oil pressure from removing the balance shafts ie oil leaks galore. Seems like porting the oil relief hole in the housing is a common fix by most dsm'er. So is this a dsm specific problem or is this in the dna of
the 4g63t since galants are "not dsm's". My car seems to have developed a bad oil leak from the valve cover (replacing that and half moon and seals etc)and other area all the way down to the oil pan.I think I may have excessive blowby also(blowing out dipstick)need catchcan or should I just rebuild damn motor grrrrr, checked the compression was a bit low on 2 cylinders(110 on 2 130 other 2).Just need some advice before I rip into the front cover, cam seals, rear main seal,front seal timing cover etc and or just rebuild the engine has 207k on original motor. Its ironic but the car runs very good except for the disappearing oil damn. Sorry for the long post.
Thanks.
Dunstan
 
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AnotherNewb

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Apr 25, 2010
Messages
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Orlando, FL
Wow, you are preaching mine and Dbossmans story for the last couple of weeks on 1947. You have a motor with no balance shafts with 200k+ miles?

After rebuilding his motor and doing a BSE we found our oil pressure over a hundred psi (I say over because the gauge pegs out). Today his dipstick blew out making a nice mess.

We have an extra 1g oil filter housing we are going to port, maybe cut a coil or two off of the spring.

Now someone correct/verify what I have researched:

1. Port the OF housing at the opening side of the hole the piston is in with a flat spot with out exposing the top of the piston.

2. If that doesn't reduce the pressure enough, cut a coil off of the spring that pushes the piston up.

3. Acceptable oil pressure is 10psi per 1k rpm.

Now the dipstick issue wouldn't be caused by oil pressure, that would be caused by excessive crank case pressure. PCV? I know our dipstick doesn't fit very tightly.

+1 on the Aeromotive FPR. Fuel lab is also an acceptable answer, we just ordered a Fuel lab from STM, I liked the fittings and hose that came with it.
 

Found several answers on dsmtuners this is one of the better ones
click
Do a quick search on there quite a few responses.
Guess this explains why these things leak oil so much too much
damn oil pressure from balance shaft removal which i am sure
all of us have done. I wonder how many members here run a oil
pressure gauge and check the readings? please chime in if you
do and tell what kind of pressure you are seeing at startup/idle
and at wot I bet its over 100 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
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And yes you are correct on the procedure for the fix according to what I have read.
 
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Could someone chime in and tell me what stock oil pressure is for our cars, W/O the BS's removed?

1947 sits right under 20psi at a warm idle, but jumps up to damn near pegged while in the throttle boosting? Why?

What are common causes and solutions for the dipstick blowing out about 2in.? I know they make the DS with the hold down, but don't want a bandaid, more after a fix. Thanks for reading.
 

Adorsey

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Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
355
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mass
Did you replace the front/rear main seals while rebuilding the motor?

Dealing with an oil leak from there with my friends 1Ga, he never replaced them
 

vtecds1

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Jan 16, 2004
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1,705
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Las Begas
Quoting Dbossman:
Could someone chime in and tell me what stock oil pressure is for our cars, W/O the BS's removed?

1947 sits right under 20psi at a warm idle, but jumps up to damn near pegged while in the throttle boosting? Why?

What are common causes and solutions for the dipstick blowing out about 2in.? I know they make the DS with the hold down, but don't want a bandaid, more after a fix. Thanks for reading.



I read somewhere that the stock oil pressure varies between 10-20psi.
 

alansupra94

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Mar 3, 2010
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Wayne,NJ
Quoting Kenny_Kline:
Why not leave the shafts in with no weighys and just remove the belt? Problem solved!



No wrong.

There is a reason to why they make eliminator kits.
 
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alansupra94

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Joined
Mar 3, 2010
Messages
1,909
Location
Wayne,NJ
Quoting Dbossman:
Could someone chime in and tell me what stock oil pressure is for our cars, W/O the BS's removed?

1947 sits right under 20psi at a warm idle, but jumps up to damn near pegged while in the throttle boosting? Why?

What are common causes and solutions for the dipstick blowing out about 2in.? I know they make the DS with the hold down, but don't want a bandaid, more after a fix. Thanks for reading.



click

Here is the solution.

I did this to a 91 OFH (water cooled) on my 6 bolt motor inside of my 1991 Talon TSI AWD. It was seeing pressure of excess 100psi and after doing the mod (I didn't cut any springs), my oil pressure hits 85psi max.

I will have to do the same for the oil filter housing on the new motor I am building now. It is actually very simple.
 
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Kenny_Kline

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Seekonk, MA
Quoting alansupra94:
Quoting Kenny_Kline:
Why not leave the shafts in with no weighys and just remove the belt? Problem solved!



No wrong.

There is a reason to why they make eliminator kits.



Can you explain to me why its wrong to do it that way? I have both my balance shafts installed, no balance shaft belt, and weights removed off my rear shaft. I dont have oil pressure issues what so ever. My engine has been setup like this for about 3 years, no problems. So whats wrong about it? Educate me please.
 

alansupra94

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click

This thread sum up much of why you shouldn't just cut the belt and leave it in there.

Personally, the kit costs about $30 so its worth the peace of mind.
 

marvinmadman

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Nov 10, 2003
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Lafayette, Louisiana
Comprehension fail? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif He said shaved rear balance shaft. Not just cut the belt which is an obvious fail if attempted. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

Kenny_Kline

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Dec 27, 2007
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Seekonk, MA
Quoting alansupra94:
click

This thread sum up much of why you shouldn't just cut the belt and leave it in there.

Personally, the kit costs about $30 so its worth the peace of mind.



Actually the amount of work it takes to do an elim kit is alot compared to putting a rear shaft in a lathe. The extra work includes porting oil filter housing, installing bearings, etc. Plus running a full rear shaft helps support the oil pump gear better instead of it on a stub shaft.

My motor I had apart last year:

balanceshaft1.jpg

balanceshaft2.jpg
 

alansupra94

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Mar 3, 2010
Messages
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Location
Wayne,NJ
Whoops I didn't catch you saying you shaved the weights.

That is actually a good idea if you can shave the weights. However, most people that just cut the belt, wouldn't have an understanding of why cutting is bad in the first place.

Never really bothered me to port the OFH. Some people have had success while others haven't but that really revolves around your motor as no motor is the same. Cutting the springs seemed to help.

Sorry for the mis read. 7hrs in the sun painting a deck can do that to you /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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