91 galant gsx. What should I do?

[rexwagon1909]

Or you be like me, get a 1990 GGSX and throw stupid money in /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif Mine will run low 10's but seriously find a car that you like that is close to being finished. I have alot into mine, granted I am doing most of the work, its a rare car in its own right and just cool. If you dont love this car I would get it sellable, and get something close to done. Otherwise prepare to spend $$$

 

[quato]

I'll jump on the bandwagon of selling the car and getting something more finished. I have owned several DSM's, an EVO IV, 180SX and threw thousands into them. This time around I bought a GVR4 that already runs well, is modded and is in pretty good condition overall. I really couldn't be happier with the choice that I made. There is still little stuff here and there that I can (and will) do to it, but it's made sooooooo much easier having a well running car to begin with.

 

[mitsuturbo]

Notable differences with non turbo engine are as follows:

As stated previously, non turbo Injectors are inadequate.

It was stated earlier that the rods may not hold up to boost/abuse. This is false. Rods are the same. Of course, detonation hurts more than just pistons and heads. It also makes the bearings take a severe beating.

Pistons will have higher compression. This is not an issue. However, the fact that the ring lands are MUCH weaker will be an issue. I tried running non-turbo pistons for a cheap way to run higher compression, once. I do not recommend this. EVER. I have photos somewhere of the pistons i took out of that engine. The ring lands FELL OUT when they came out of the bores. All 4 pistons.

Oil squirters are not present. They're not essential.

Cams for non turbo cars aren't so great for turbo applications. Everything else in the head will work fine.

Outside the engine, you'll run into a host of other issues, primarily with the wiring. There's the lack of knock sensor, a single wire O2 sensor, and different MAF setup. The radiator in a N/A car does not have the increased cooling capacity the turbo models do, either.

Does anyone know for certain of the GGSX runs low or high impedance injectors? I'm not sure. That may be another concern.

The W5M31 (Stock GGSX) gearset is incredibly weak. If you saw one next to a W5M33 (DSM/VR4) gearset, you'd understand. The teeth are really small in comparison. The bearings are different. It's not really suitable to be built to handle any sort of power. The final drive in the trans is different, as is the rear diff ratio. Transfer case is the same ratio, however.

If you plan on tearing the car down and doing a full build up of it, then sure, maybe the GGSX would be a good platform. You'll need a 4 bolt rear anyway, so why not get a built W5M33 transmission too? Work on putting in the proper wiring, ecu, and other pieces, and it would be no less a VR4 than any other with deleted 4WS.

 

[cheekychimp]

Quoting mitsuturbo:
It was stated earlier that the rods may not hold up to boost/abuse. This is false. Rods are the same. Of course, detonation hurts more than just pistons and heads. It also makes the bearings take a severe beating.



I have to admit, I wasn't actually aware that the NA and turbo rods were identical, nonetheless my point was only that if the higher compression pistons were run on a stock turbo ECU (i.e. un-tuned) it could lead to detonation and that the rods could potentially be damaged as a result. Thanks for clearing that up though and I have amended what I wrote previously so as to avoid misleading anyone else.

 

[89Mirageman]

The rods are the same but the na piston pins are thinner.

 

[OldHairyBastard]

I have a ggsx and did everything to my car.

stackpoole- The 3bolt that came in the care is a different gear ratio than the VR4 and the 1G. The trans if stock is different then a VR4 with a different Ratio and is very weak. If both have been changed then your O.K. If not then your center diff will blow up in the trans and make nice bumping sounds and jerk the car back and forth. You will need the correct wiring harness, ECU, Knock Sensor on the motor & a turbo mas/maf. You can keep the stock wiring harness if you add the 2 knock sensor wires to the correct pins on the ecu plug on a turbo ecu. The easiest thing to do is to purchase a good used 1G or VR4 harness and it will plug right in to everything. See if you can contact the guy you bought the car from and just ask him to tell you the truth about the car so that you can fix all of the problems and have a nice running car.

PM me if you need more help.

Doug

 

Back from the dead. Sorry I haven't responded in a while. Been out east working. I'm not gonna be able to answer all of the questions but I'll attempt to answer some. The car is still up north. I'll be towing it home next week. I will be able to confirm for sure what exactly is done to it. But to my knowledge right now, It is a nt motor. Injectors are small, ecu has yet to be confirmed as being nt or turbo. The rest of the car appears to be stock including the trans and rear end. I want to point out i'm not building a race car. I just want to be able to drive this car normally. With that being said. Can't I just swap in the bigger injectors(which I have), swap in a 5 speed turbo ecu(given it doesn't already have one), wire in the knock and maf sensor and call it a day? I will be running low boost so that I don't damage the pistons of course. And to further add. I'm very capable of working on my own cars. I've done so up until I moved to kentucky. I live in an apartment complex so its rather difficult to do anything. I will be moving into a house with garage soon so i'll have issues then. Really just wanted some insight. Thanks for the responses though. I will update when I get the car down here.

 

[mitsuturbo]

If by "low boost" you mean the absolute minimum your factory 1g/vr4 wastegate actuator will allow you to run, then it may be alright, provided you've got the proper ECU, matching injectors, MAF, and knock sensor installed. I wouldn't try running 14psi on stock non turbo pistons.

 

[gaylantvr4]

If it has been driven and boosted on with the 270's install more than likly damage has allready been done. I would start with a compression test before you throw any more money in the nt motor.