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4G67 DOHC Swap

SadamHu

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2013
Messages
8
Location
Whangarei
Hi there!

Well, my cam belt snapped and I'm thinking I have valve damage. I took the covers off, and turned the cam shafts, seemed sweet to me. My father doesn't seem to think so. I understand why, but maybe, just maybe I may have gotten away with it? It was pretty interesting where the cams stopped, they both lined up with their little marks, in the correct position ready to have a new belt put on, lol. But anyways, I'm sourcing a donor, and will be doing a full engine swap. The only problem is, I haven't got a clue of what the steps are involved with swapping it. What things should I be thinking about? Is there a manual somewhere showing the steps involved? Also, do you think theres any other way for me to just get away with slapping on another belt? or do you think its most likely toast.




 

460GVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2012
Messages
87
Location
tacoma, wa
Your valves are bent, pull the head send it to a machine shop for a few new valves. It's only going to cost $200-$350 for head work pending how many valves (from experience). Buy a new water pump, timing belt, head gasket, tensioner pulley, tensior, idler pulley, manifold gaskets, water housing gasket. Assemble and drive drive drive.
 

theevozero

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 12, 2011
Messages
331
Location
Odessa, Texas
Take the valve cover off and see if the rocker arms fell off. A leak down test would confirm. Depending on how bad it bent the valves, you will have to replace the guides, they will crack.
 

fuel

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
2,165
Location
Toronto, ON, Canada
A 4G67 definitely bends valves when the belt breaks or slips. If you can get to Auckland, go to a Pick-a-part and there should at least be one or two 4G67 powered Galants there to rob a head from. A 4G63 DOHC head should be the same, although the cams are different and I think the 4G67 ports are slightly smaller. I know the later 4G61 turbo heads are identical to the 4G67 head.

Also in case you weren't aware, your car is a Super Viento - it's the E35A Viento which shares the same interior and exterior (minus sideskirts) as the VR-4 (as well as the VX-S/VZ-S).
 

vicore

Member
Joined
May 5, 2013
Messages
7
Location
Berlin
Keep in mind that with a 4g63 head you are going to lower the compression ratio!
Head volume:

4g67 43ccm
4g63 47ccm
 

fuel

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
2,165
Location
Toronto, ON, Canada
^^ too right I did not think of that! 4G67 or 4G61 only then.
 

FlyingEagle

Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
Hyundai (E)Lantra's available on your shores? 92-95 were applicable 4g67 years for North America, not sure about NZ but you guys are usually a year or two ahead, so 90-91+?
 

fuel

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
2,165
Location
Toronto, ON, Canada
4G67 Lantras are rare on our side of the world, Hyundai was more pushing the Excel, Accent and the Sonata at the time. The Lantra started to get popular around 1995 with the new bug eye round shape but they had 4G9x based engines and sat on the opposite side of the engine bay.
 

SadamHu

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2013
Messages
8
Location
Whangarei
Oh wow! I didn't get a single notification that I had people responding to my requests here! Thank you so much for getting involved! I really appreciate it!

I managed to find a 4G67 up north of where I live.

I got it for $300 and picking it up this weekend. The thing is, we don't know what order things need to be pulled out and labelled when tearing out the "dead" engine.
We did consider just getting a new head, but the engine barely survived 2 overheats already. My Dad reckons the whole thing is probably to warped to go back together if we tried.

So I'm cool with doing an engine swap, I wasn't really concentrating or really even there when doing my first engine swap. So this is going to be fun practise.

Can anyone point me to a decent manual showing the steps of pulling out an engine?
Theres this one, but I think its too old and doesn't include my vehicle.
and this one.

OR! is there a better book/place to learn about the order of removal for engine replacement?

Thanks heaps for all your input!
 

SadamHu

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2013
Messages
8
Location
Whangarei
Hey Guys, I've managed to get a hold of a 4G67. I've started tearing out all the wires and shizzzz on the old engine. Slowly getting to the point now where I can detach the axles, and yank the damn thing out! Hopefully the next photos will be of the engine halfway out! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif Then swapping bits and pieces over and what not. For this noob it has been a fairly simple procedure. I just hope I didn't f*** up with my labeling and writing down of instructions lol!

I've moved this engine around quite a bit to be able to see whats needed to be removed. It's instructions in itself in a way...

Are there any tips and things I should think about before putting this new engine in there?

 

SadamHu

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2013
Messages
8
Location
Whangarei
Phew, So its been a bit of a week, but got a lot accomplished!

Well, lets take the bonnet off first! and jack that sh*t up!


I'll start with all these wires!


And these weird looking tube thingys!


Unbolt that big thing, on the front of the other thing...


Tell that bitch whose boss!


Pull out its shin bones!


Get that thing outta there!


Woot!


Not so tough are ya big boi?


Your next fella!


Now I just have to swap that shizzle over onto this bad boi...


Does anyone have any good documents on torque settings? For example, how much torque is needed for bolting on to the flywheel?
Or just procedures for preparing for placing it into the car? Any tips would be really appreciated.

Stay tuned for the next bunch of whack...
 

EMX5636

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
1,631
Location
Bucks County, PA
www.VFAQ.com still has a lot of good info and how-to's for what you are doing. They were meant for the DSM (Eclipse/Talon/Laser) platform, but the drivetrain and suspension are all the same. Not sure if they have the torque specs listed or not though.

Good job on the effort so far!
 

misterfixit

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2004
Messages
1,596
Location
Midlands, UK
Have a look on my rebuild thread for My Green UK DD. That's 4g67 powered and has been down to the bare shell and back. Its all documented start to finish on here too.

Rich
 

SadamHu

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2013
Messages
8
Location
Whangarei
ooo thank you, I'll certainly be having a look at that when i find it. I think I've caught the whole Galant bug.

Well I just wanted to come back and say that I have installed the engine, and everything was fine, at least I thought.
Unfortunately I forgot to bolt down the crank pulley, and the only thing that was holding it in place was the belts
wrapped around it!!! So toasted that engine! ruined valves again, back to square one!

I would post images, but it would just be just reverse of what I have posted here already /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Found another engine, this time, used my concentration a little better and installed it fine, running mint!
ANOTHER problem! the auto transmission is doing something really weird! it's jolting all the time! I dont know why!
fluids?! did I put the torque converter on wrong? cable not plugged in? what?! NOW THE AUTO TRANS IS SCREWED???!

Then I came across another Mitsubishi Galant 89, with a 4G37 and a KM206 trans (manual) for $300! So I bought it!
took it home! And now I'm in the process of pulling out the trans on both of them and making the damn car a manual.

The car is rotten, and in bad condition. So I'm not just gonna use that one instead.

This is me buying the donor and driving it home! woo hoo!
click
^^^YOUTUBE LINK^^^

Unbolted the manual transmission from the donor car and plopped
it out the bottom, in about 2.5 hours or so...


Heres the manual trans (KM206), I hope it'll fit what i have in the car already. a big puddle of
trans fluid because i didn't cover up the axle holes with a rag or something, nevermind I
need to replace the fluid anyways.


Test fitted it to a dead engine. WOO HOO! perfect fit, like a glove! This means it will fit
on the going engine in the car at the moment! Sweet!


This is the manual car, and I've teared out the seats to get at the brake and clutch pedals,
aswell as the gear shifter.


This is the Auto, the main car I want to drive around but want it to be a manual instead.
I need to pull out the brake pedal and auto shifter. That'll be the next days off I guess.


Questions
(1) Is the KM206 basically called a F5M22?
(2) Because I'm changing the trans to manual, will
that mean I have to purchase a new ECU?
(3) I read on this page that all you have to
do is bypass the Auto Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) to do so,
simply go under the hood where the big plug is for the Auto Tranny,
and disconnect the 2 Black wires w\ yellow stripes, and tie them into
each other, and wrap with electrical tape or shrink rap. Is that true?
(4) What happens with the overdrive on/off switch? This should be just to do with the auto, and not worried about, right?
(5) What happens with the power/economy switch? Won't that have some effect on my revs?

Is there anything that could prevent this from running? Is there anything that I'm forgetting? All the shifters and cutting
through the firewall will be a piece of piss, its all this other stuff which has me concerned. I can make it look like its supposed to go
lol! but will I have hang ups with ecu and remnants of the auto wanting its piece of the action?

OR!

Is it just as simple as plugging in a manual trans, bypassing the
Auto Neutral Safety Switch, turning the key and driving?

Thanks very much everyone for reading and helping this auto noob out!
This has been a tonne of fun, and I'm enjoying every minute of it!
 

Mitsimad

New member
Joined
Mar 6, 2023
Messages
1
Location
Wellington, New Zealand
Hey man, not sure if you'll even still get this message but I fully accidentally stumbled upon this thread about my old car. I didn't know it had such a life! I owned it in 2021. I sold it in December 2021.

20211219_205410606.jpg

20211219_205322675.jpg
 
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