Does anyone know how to remove 4ws properly
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Properly...oh boy, here we go
Cut the AWS lines at the FRONT steering rack. Remove the lines from the front steering rack (the ones you just cut). You need these to make proper plugs. Once you get them out, remove the little o-ring on the end. Now cut the lines off flush with the nut and weld them shut. Once they've cooled down, replace the o-ring and then put them back in the steering rack. This is one of the biggest mistakes people make is that they just cut the lines and weld them right on the rack. Problem is, you melt the o-ring and then the plug won't seal.
Now that you have the front all sealed up, you can remove all the lines and stuff in the rear. To reduce the risk of having the rear steering pump seize up on you, you should lift it out of the rear and cut off the drive gear. You can put it back in the rear then to plug the hole.
You can do one of several things with the rear steering rack. 1) leave it in there as is, 2) leave it in there and weld up the rack solid, 3) remove the rack and basically mount a bar in its place, or 4) remove it and just leave the rear end the way it is.
I currently have the rear of my car setup like #4.
Now that all that mess is done, you can cap off the lines and the power steering fluid reservoir in the front of the car. I am pretty sure if your looking down on the reservoir from the front of the car, the rear steering lines are the two on the left. You can trace them down the front of the car to be sure.
I'll add/make changes to this as I remember them.
Good luck!
Cut the AWS lines at the FRONT steering rack. Remove the lines from the front steering rack (the ones you just cut). You need these to make proper plugs. Once you get them out, remove the little o-ring on the end. Now cut the lines off flush with the nut and weld them shut. Once they've cooled down, replace the o-ring and then put them back in the steering rack. This is one of the biggest mistakes people make is that they just cut the lines and weld them right on the rack. Problem is, you melt the o-ring and then the plug won't seal.
Now that you have the front all sealed up, you can remove all the lines and stuff in the rear. To reduce the risk of having the rear steering pump seize up on you, you should lift it out of the rear and cut off the drive gear. You can put it back in the rear then to plug the hole.
You can do one of several things with the rear steering rack. 1) leave it in there as is, 2) leave it in there and weld up the rack solid, 3) remove the rack and basically mount a bar in its place, or 4) remove it and just leave the rear end the way it is.
I currently have the rear of my car setup like #4.
Now that all that mess is done, you can cap off the lines and the power steering fluid reservoir in the front of the car. I am pretty sure if your looking down on the reservoir from the front of the car, the rear steering lines are the two on the left. You can trace them down the front of the car to be sure.
I'll add/make changes to this as I remember them.
Good luck!
markrieb
Well-known member
From my archives you can also use the following Earls fittings to block the steering rack: two each of the following: 14x1.5 to -6 AN adapters, PN 991954, and -6 AN caps.
The easy way to get rid of the pump is to swap in a 4-bolt lsd rear...
RRE has a VFAQ on how to weld up the trailing arm link so that it doesn't deflect under cornering load (so called passive rear steering) or if you have the money DSS makes a replacement piece (http://www.diamondstarspecialties.com/product.asp?section=Eclipse_Talon&subname=DSM&productid=27-100-300)
Mark Rieb
The easy way to get rid of the pump is to swap in a 4-bolt lsd rear...
RRE has a VFAQ on how to weld up the trailing arm link so that it doesn't deflect under cornering load (so called passive rear steering) or if you have the money DSS makes a replacement piece (http://www.diamondstarspecialties.com/product.asp?section=Eclipse_Talon&subname=DSM&productid=27-100-300)
Mark Rieb
