Brunoboy
Well-known member
lol you cant quote the last comment in a thread unless you do it manually. and thats a good saying.
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2g maf
- Thread startertintoy
- Start date
1uGlyGalaNt
Well-known member
Quoting Diego:
Quoting 1uGlyGalaNt:
Unless you run a MAP sensor instead of a MAF, which requires using ECMLink, DSMLink, or AEM, then you must recirc your bov for your car to run correctly.
What about GM Maf and translator, no need to recirc then. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
Not sure if serious. Judging by the emoticon, you weren't but for the noobs' sake I'll reply as if you were.
You can "get away" with running a vented bov with a GM MAF in blow-through configuration (after the turbo, before the throttle body) but this is not a correct use of the sensor. The GM MAF was neither designed to see swirled air that has been passed through a compressor, nor the type of pressure and heat that is seen with air that has been passed through a turbo, even after it has been intercooled.
Technically, there is nothing too wrong with running a GM MAF in draw-through configuration (before the turbo inlet like your stock MAS) other than the fact that you are robbing your ECU of some information, but why? There is 1 signal wire coming off the GM MAF and 5 signal wires coming off of the 2g or 3g/EVO MAS (taking into account that 2 wires on each sensor are power and ground). A stock sensor such as the 2g or 3g/EVO has better metering capabilities and is more compatible with the OEM Mitsu ECU than a GM MAF. If you're over-running the 2g or 3g/EVO MAS then you're making serious power and should step up to a 3-bar MAP sensor.
If your car is running "correctly" with a vented bov (i.e. not dying after you let off the throttle) then something likely has been done to correct for the metered air you are losing via an AFC or something. This "works" in the sense that your car doesn't die but it's not "correct" in the sense that you shouldn't be venting your bov unless you're running a MAP sensor.
Quoting 1uGlyGalaNt:
Unless you run a MAP sensor instead of a MAF, which requires using ECMLink, DSMLink, or AEM, then you must recirc your bov for your car to run correctly.
What about GM Maf and translator, no need to recirc then. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
Not sure if serious. Judging by the emoticon, you weren't but for the noobs' sake I'll reply as if you were.
You can "get away" with running a vented bov with a GM MAF in blow-through configuration (after the turbo, before the throttle body) but this is not a correct use of the sensor. The GM MAF was neither designed to see swirled air that has been passed through a compressor, nor the type of pressure and heat that is seen with air that has been passed through a turbo, even after it has been intercooled.
Technically, there is nothing too wrong with running a GM MAF in draw-through configuration (before the turbo inlet like your stock MAS) other than the fact that you are robbing your ECU of some information, but why? There is 1 signal wire coming off the GM MAF and 5 signal wires coming off of the 2g or 3g/EVO MAS (taking into account that 2 wires on each sensor are power and ground). A stock sensor such as the 2g or 3g/EVO has better metering capabilities and is more compatible with the OEM Mitsu ECU than a GM MAF. If you're over-running the 2g or 3g/EVO MAS then you're making serious power and should step up to a 3-bar MAP sensor.
If your car is running "correctly" with a vented bov (i.e. not dying after you let off the throttle) then something likely has been done to correct for the metered air you are losing via an AFC or something. This "works" in the sense that your car doesn't die but it's not "correct" in the sense that you shouldn't be venting your bov unless you're running a MAP sensor.
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dsmkid
Well-known member
What will I gain by trading my tial to something I can recirc?
Brunoboy
Well-known member
I PM'd you.
-Shane
-Shane
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1uGlyGalaNt
Well-known member
Quoting dsmkid:
What will I gain by trading my tial to something I can recirc?
To answer your question, you could pick up a few miles per gallon and perhaps better driveability.
To offer some advice, what are your goals for the car? If you want to make big power then I suggest you get a standalone such as an AEM or an almost standalone such as Dsmlink.
If you want to make moderate power and have stock-like driveability then I suggest you get a stock bov, a greddy w recirc, or an hks w recirc.
What will I gain by trading my tial to something I can recirc?
To answer your question, you could pick up a few miles per gallon and perhaps better driveability.
To offer some advice, what are your goals for the car? If you want to make big power then I suggest you get a standalone such as an AEM or an almost standalone such as Dsmlink.
If you want to make moderate power and have stock-like driveability then I suggest you get a stock bov, a greddy w recirc, or an hks w recirc.
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Brunoboy
Well-known member
I offered a go fast bits bov that has the recirculating fitting as well as the VTA option if later down the road he decides to go speed density with link or ems.
-Shane
-Shane
tintoy
Well-known member
my car wont pull.. I just want to check if i rewired my gvr4 maf to 2g maf correctly.. Do u have another link or some pix how to do it?
dsmkid
Well-known member
Im sorry to have pretty much hijacked your thread tintoy, If needed I can make my own regarding this.. anyways, I never got an offer on another bov but am definately interested.. Anyone with standalone want to trade a pretty much brand new Tial 50mm for something with a recirc option? I love the look and sound of the tial but I would much rather have something more reliable and better for tuning reasons for this car. It will be a daily in the range of 350whp for now.
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Brunoboy
Well-known member
I have a blow off valve for you , pm me your number. And I swear I pmd you.
-shane
-shane
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1uglygalant pretty much nailed it with the maft problem. The company that came out with those is local to me, I was probably the first 10 or so to ever get one. I could never get the damn thing to operate right, or better than the stock mas. The sensor was happier before the turbo, right where the stock one was. Between adjusting the maft and safc, it was easiest to leave maft zero'd out and do all the changes with the safc, making a gm maft basically useless to me. I'm sure others have had success with it. It wasn't for me. Even now with dsmlink v3 I went with a 399 mas over the gm.
The fastest DSM I ever rode in had a 2g mas and modded 1g bov. It was a very simple car. No maft to screw with, no gm mas to install where it doesn't want to be, no aftermarket bov adjusted too soft or firm to flutter surge leak, etc etc. It pulled like a freight train and driving off boost was totally normal.
Keep It Simple, Stupid.
The fastest DSM I ever rode in had a 2g mas and modded 1g bov. It was a very simple car. No maft to screw with, no gm mas to install where it doesn't want to be, no aftermarket bov adjusted too soft or firm to flutter surge leak, etc etc. It pulled like a freight train and driving off boost was totally normal.
Keep It Simple, Stupid.
