Hello all what is the quickes way to remove my engine? so for I have removed the harness all the bolt I can see to the tranny... or do I leave the tranny attatched? I must be missing something the bottom of the motor and tranny will not seperate any help would be dreat guys thanks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif
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fuel
Well-known member
make sure you have removed the 12mm bolt at the bottom of the bellhousing on the firewall side - it's easy to miss. It goes through one of the dowels. You access the head on the opposite side of all the other bellhousing bolts.
Barnes
Well-known member
I don't think it's actually possible to remove the engine with the transmission still installed. It is generally considered easiest to remove the engine and transmission together.
Your other option is to remove the transmission, then remove the engine. As mentioned above, you need to remove that 12mm bolt that is hidden in the back. Also, don't forget to remove the clutch inspection plate. Also, there is a 10mm bolt that holds the rear engine backing plate to the bell housing. It is right near the turbo inlet on the bell housing. It is hard to see, but it should be there. If you don't see it, feel for a hole where it used to be.
But again, I recommend putting the three 14mm bolts that hold the tranny to block back in, and pulling the whole thing as one unit.
Your other option is to remove the transmission, then remove the engine. As mentioned above, you need to remove that 12mm bolt that is hidden in the back. Also, don't forget to remove the clutch inspection plate. Also, there is a 10mm bolt that holds the rear engine backing plate to the bell housing. It is right near the turbo inlet on the bell housing. It is hard to see, but it should be there. If you don't see it, feel for a hole where it used to be.
But again, I recommend putting the three 14mm bolts that hold the tranny to block back in, and pulling the whole thing as one unit.
Last edited by a moderator:
belize1334
Well-known member
^^ +1
I've pulled transmissions and I also pulled the whole engine/trans as a unit. If you're gonna take the engine out, leave it attached to the transmission and then separate the two once they're on the ground. The easiest way, IMHO, is to lower it through the engine bay onto the ground. Then use your hoist to lift the car by the front cross member and slide the engine out from under.
I've pulled transmissions and I also pulled the whole engine/trans as a unit. If you're gonna take the engine out, leave it attached to the transmission and then separate the two once they're on the ground. The easiest way, IMHO, is to lower it through the engine bay onto the ground. Then use your hoist to lift the car by the front cross member and slide the engine out from under.
Barnes
Well-known member
Good point Belize1334. Also, If your crane doesn't go high enough, or if you run out of ceiling space, here is another technique; After you initially get the engine/tranny connected to the crane and being to pick it up, put a floor jack in between the legs of the engine hoist. Now use the floor jack to pick up the car (as if you were doing an oil change) and remove the jackstands you presumably had under the car during this whole engine removal process. Now using the floor jack, LOWER the car down. You also probably don't have the wheels attached at this point, so you can go pretty low. Just make sure as you lower it you don't go so low that the car body/frame sits on top of the engine hoist legs, OR that you bottom out your brake shields. This can give you a huge amount of extra room so the engine can come up and out and clear the engine compartment and keep your crane from hitting your ceiling. (I used this technique when I was working on my Camry)
Ok so I have to unbolt my transfer case ect. Also this car has a 5 lug converson done to it and I dont know how to get the half shafts out or just let them hang ?
Barnes
Well-known member
Yes, remove your transfer case. Also, a 5-lug conversion has no affect on how the half-shafts are removed. It is the same as stock. There are two different views on half-shafts. One group of people say to remove them, the other says to leave them in. I've done both, and here is my take. If you do NOT need to remove your half shafts for some other reason, leave them in. The last tranny install I did, I left the half shafts in and realized it didn't hinder remove/install, and saved a ton of time/hassle by not having to remove the half shaft. You have to follow a similar procedure as if you were removing the half-shaft, but you stop at the point where you actually remove them from the hub.
1) Unbolt the brake line bracket from the strut.
2) Unbolt the ABS sensor wire bracket from the strut.
3) Unbolt the two large bolts that hold the strut to the hub.
4) Pull the hub off the strut. This slacks the half-shaft out a lot. Be careful not to pull on the brake line or ABS wire as you do this.
5) (Passenger side only)Using a prybar, pop the half shaft loose from the transmission, but don't pull it out.
5b) (Driver side only) Unbolt the half-shaft bracket that is bolted to the engine block with the 2 bolts. The half shaft will slide out of the tranny easily as there is no retaining ring.
6) Unlock the steering column inside the car by putting the key in the ignition and turning one click.
7) Pull the half shaft out of the transmission by manipulating the hub and the half shaft. YOu will find you can rotate the hub 'away' from the transmission which will pull the half shaft away from the transmission as well. It sometimes helps to push/pull the tie rod to help you achieve this, thus unlocking the column. I tend to find that turning the wheel all the way full left when doing the right half-shaft, and vice-versa, works well for me. During the process, do your best to limit how extreme let the hub sag as you can start to tear old ball joint boots or the tie rod boots.
After you have the shafts out of the transmission, using rope or something tie them to something in the engine compartment to keep them out of the way.
OR you can just remove them entirely. Personally I don't like risking having an axle nut foul up on me or the hassle of getting them off and on.
1) Unbolt the brake line bracket from the strut.
2) Unbolt the ABS sensor wire bracket from the strut.
3) Unbolt the two large bolts that hold the strut to the hub.
4) Pull the hub off the strut. This slacks the half-shaft out a lot. Be careful not to pull on the brake line or ABS wire as you do this.
5) (Passenger side only)Using a prybar, pop the half shaft loose from the transmission, but don't pull it out.
5b) (Driver side only) Unbolt the half-shaft bracket that is bolted to the engine block with the 2 bolts. The half shaft will slide out of the tranny easily as there is no retaining ring.
6) Unlock the steering column inside the car by putting the key in the ignition and turning one click.
7) Pull the half shaft out of the transmission by manipulating the hub and the half shaft. YOu will find you can rotate the hub 'away' from the transmission which will pull the half shaft away from the transmission as well. It sometimes helps to push/pull the tie rod to help you achieve this, thus unlocking the column. I tend to find that turning the wheel all the way full left when doing the right half-shaft, and vice-versa, works well for me. During the process, do your best to limit how extreme let the hub sag as you can start to tear old ball joint boots or the tie rod boots.
After you have the shafts out of the transmission, using rope or something tie them to something in the engine compartment to keep them out of the way.
OR you can just remove them entirely. Personally I don't like risking having an axle nut foul up on me or the hassle of getting them off and on.
Last edited by a moderator:
alansupra94
Well-known member
^^^^^
Sticky worthy stuff here.
Sticky worthy stuff here.
mitsuturbo
Well-known member
I do things a bit differently than already described here, and it's always worked out well for me.
Here's my method, step by step.
First i drain the transmission.
Pull the plastic side covers from under each side of the frame.
Drop the crossmember under the transmission and the gusset under the RH side axle.
Bring the downpipe down so i can drop the T-case. After the T-case is on the ground, i remove what i call the "special bolt" ...the grade 10 bolt with 12mm head which holds the transmission in from the back side (this bolt being left out upon reassembly has broken many a bellhousing on W5M33s).
Pull the 2 bolts retaining the slave cylinder, and the 1 that holds the clutch line to the transmission.
If i had an inspection cover bolt or the bellhousing cover plate bolt in place, i'd remove them as well, but i dont use them.
Since the car is in the air already, i pull the Right Front wheel, pull the 3 bolts and 1 nut that go on the strut/knuckle assembly. (2 for knuckle, 2 for brake line/abs)
Drop the A-arm down, and pop the axle loose from the transmission.
Turn the wheel all the way to the left, and pull the tranny side of the axle out and put it in the wheel well against the frame.
After getting all the "extra" crap out, such as the battery, and all intake plumbing, i pull the shifter cable retainers from the bracket, disconnect from linkage on transmission, and push the cables out of the way.
Now i can remove the other 3 bolts that hold the transmission to the engine, the 2 starter bolts, and the 2 bolts that hold the transmission to the frame. Disconnect Speedo cable and reverse light connector.
Remove 2 carrier bearing retaining bolts from Driver Side axle (axle to block).
Slide transmission out while getting it free from DS Axle.
Transmission is now on the ground.. removing the engine is SIMPLE after that.
I honestly dont care for having all the weight of the entire assembly in the air. I'd much rather deal with the transmission and engine on a 1-on-1 basis.
I'd also rather drop an engine in straight off the engine stand, rather than try to get the engine off the stand, attach the flywheel and clutch, attach the transmission, and then have to angle it all in to try to get things to settle in properly.
The same goes for getting the engine ON the stand. I'd much rather just remove the clutch and flywheel with the engine still in the car, and stick the engine on a stand straight away.
Here's my method, step by step.
First i drain the transmission.
Pull the plastic side covers from under each side of the frame.
Drop the crossmember under the transmission and the gusset under the RH side axle.
Bring the downpipe down so i can drop the T-case. After the T-case is on the ground, i remove what i call the "special bolt" ...the grade 10 bolt with 12mm head which holds the transmission in from the back side (this bolt being left out upon reassembly has broken many a bellhousing on W5M33s).
Pull the 2 bolts retaining the slave cylinder, and the 1 that holds the clutch line to the transmission.
If i had an inspection cover bolt or the bellhousing cover plate bolt in place, i'd remove them as well, but i dont use them.
Since the car is in the air already, i pull the Right Front wheel, pull the 3 bolts and 1 nut that go on the strut/knuckle assembly. (2 for knuckle, 2 for brake line/abs)
Drop the A-arm down, and pop the axle loose from the transmission.
Turn the wheel all the way to the left, and pull the tranny side of the axle out and put it in the wheel well against the frame.
After getting all the "extra" crap out, such as the battery, and all intake plumbing, i pull the shifter cable retainers from the bracket, disconnect from linkage on transmission, and push the cables out of the way.
Now i can remove the other 3 bolts that hold the transmission to the engine, the 2 starter bolts, and the 2 bolts that hold the transmission to the frame. Disconnect Speedo cable and reverse light connector.
Remove 2 carrier bearing retaining bolts from Driver Side axle (axle to block).
Slide transmission out while getting it free from DS Axle.
Transmission is now on the ground.. removing the engine is SIMPLE after that.
I honestly dont care for having all the weight of the entire assembly in the air. I'd much rather deal with the transmission and engine on a 1-on-1 basis.
I'd also rather drop an engine in straight off the engine stand, rather than try to get the engine off the stand, attach the flywheel and clutch, attach the transmission, and then have to angle it all in to try to get things to settle in properly.
The same goes for getting the engine ON the stand. I'd much rather just remove the clutch and flywheel with the engine still in the car, and stick the engine on a stand straight away.
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boostedinaz
Well-known member
Quoting BarnesMobile:
Yes, remove your transfer case. Also, a 5-lug conversion has no affect on how the half-shafts are removed. It is the same as stock. There are two different views on half-shafts. One group of people say to remove them, the other says to leave them in. I've done both, and here is my take. If you do NOT need to remove your half shafts for some other reason, leave them in. The last tranny install I did, I left the half shafts in and realized it didn't hinder remove/install, and saved a ton of time/hassle by not having to remove the half shaft. You have to follow a similar procedure as if you were removing the half-shaft, but you stop at the point where you actually remove them from the hub.
1) Unbolt the brake line bracket from the strut.
2) Unbolt the ABS sensor wire bracket from the strut.
3) Unbolt the two large bolts that hold the strut to the hub.
4) Pull the hub off the strut. This slacks the half-shaft out a lot. Be careful not to pull on the brake line or ABS wire as you do this.
5) (Passenger side only)Using a prybar, pop the half shaft loose from the transmission, but don't pull it out.
5b) (Driver side only) Unbolt the half-shaft bracket that is bolted to the engine block with the 2 bolts. The half shaft will slide out of the tranny easily as there is no retaining ring.
6) Unlock the steering column inside the car by putting the key in the ignition and turning one click.
7) Pull the half shaft out of the transmission by manipulating the hub and the half shaft. YOu will find you can rotate the hub 'away' from the transmission which will pull the half shaft away from the transmission as well. It sometimes helps to push/pull the tie rod to help you achieve this, thus unlocking the column. I tend to find that turning the wheel all the way full left when doing the right half-shaft, and vice-versa, works well for me. During the process, do your best to limit how extreme let the hub sag as you can start to tear old ball joint boots or the tie rod boots.
After you have the shafts out of the transmission, using rope or something tie them to something in the engine compartment to keep them out of the way.
OR you can just remove them entirely. Personally I don't like risking having an axle nut foul up on me or the hassle of getting them off and on.
This is pretty much how I do it. Much easier to pull them together than to make two small projects out of it.
Yes, remove your transfer case. Also, a 5-lug conversion has no affect on how the half-shafts are removed. It is the same as stock. There are two different views on half-shafts. One group of people say to remove them, the other says to leave them in. I've done both, and here is my take. If you do NOT need to remove your half shafts for some other reason, leave them in. The last tranny install I did, I left the half shafts in and realized it didn't hinder remove/install, and saved a ton of time/hassle by not having to remove the half shaft. You have to follow a similar procedure as if you were removing the half-shaft, but you stop at the point where you actually remove them from the hub.
1) Unbolt the brake line bracket from the strut.
2) Unbolt the ABS sensor wire bracket from the strut.
3) Unbolt the two large bolts that hold the strut to the hub.
4) Pull the hub off the strut. This slacks the half-shaft out a lot. Be careful not to pull on the brake line or ABS wire as you do this.
5) (Passenger side only)Using a prybar, pop the half shaft loose from the transmission, but don't pull it out.
5b) (Driver side only) Unbolt the half-shaft bracket that is bolted to the engine block with the 2 bolts. The half shaft will slide out of the tranny easily as there is no retaining ring.
6) Unlock the steering column inside the car by putting the key in the ignition and turning one click.
7) Pull the half shaft out of the transmission by manipulating the hub and the half shaft. YOu will find you can rotate the hub 'away' from the transmission which will pull the half shaft away from the transmission as well. It sometimes helps to push/pull the tie rod to help you achieve this, thus unlocking the column. I tend to find that turning the wheel all the way full left when doing the right half-shaft, and vice-versa, works well for me. During the process, do your best to limit how extreme let the hub sag as you can start to tear old ball joint boots or the tie rod boots.
After you have the shafts out of the transmission, using rope or something tie them to something in the engine compartment to keep them out of the way.
OR you can just remove them entirely. Personally I don't like risking having an axle nut foul up on me or the hassle of getting them off and on.
This is pretty much how I do it. Much easier to pull them together than to make two small projects out of it.
