Great upgrade for dsm/gvr4. Asking $200 pick upCall or text (973)901-5525

Evo 8 HKS 262 cams in good shape $220 shipped.FIC 1650cc injectors in good shape. With the orings. $350 shippedCall or text (973)901-5525

Do not PM me I won't respond. Just call or text. Thanks

It was rebuilt by dogbox racing lol. Stage 1 with dual synchro 2nd and welded diff. I believe their out of business now

Race parts for saleThese are what's left of my race car parts.  This whole setup got me to 735awhp and it is all in great condition.  These are from my 1990 1g DSM awd 5speedCall or text (973)901-5525.  Do not pm me.  I don't check my pm.  Thanks1-FP HTA86  turbo BB with twin scroll...

Bump $2000 for the long block without the cams/cam gear

Bump. 735awhp on the clock with no smoke or overheating.

Give me till end this weekend guys to see.what happened. And ill update this thread. Thanks for all the interest and comments

Sorry guys. Not enough hits yet and the Problem is simple so it's all back to life. I wil still parts out soon. Engine and the whole turbo kit still for sale on the other threads. If one of the package sells then its a definite parts out. I just can't end this by just selling small parts...

Bump

Im about to part out my race 1g so I figure to start the thread for the big stuff first. This setup got me in to 10.8 on a roll. My last dyno was 600awhp with a street turbo setup. Now now with the new T4 turbo setup it should be around 700 which I will dyno to prove soon. My car is still in...

This happens if the ecu don't see a crank/cam signal, so it won't send voltage to the relay. Also make sure your coolant temp is plugge and good. It will not start if the ecu don't see it

There might be a wiring issue here. If the VPc is hardwared then make sure you rewire the ait wire back to the stock maf sensor. Make sure the stock maf has all the honey comb too otherwise it will be a problem without custom tuning.

Eighther bad sensor or too advance timing. Check the wire to terminal also make sure it's on the right pin. And make sure he use a sheilded wire coz regular wire will bleed out and pick up noise from the chassis.

There's also a ground next to the ecu screwed in to the metal of the center console, trace all those wires and make sure their good and solid and grounded properly

Try jumping a power directly to those terminal. Check your can sensor and wires to make sure their good, the ecu will not send those voltage till it sees the cam sensor turning. And yes the coolant temp plays a big role on starting so make sure their operational. There's a different trim/tune...

Just to let u guys know, when u boost leak a car you have to run enough air so your boost gauge will hit more than your boost target. Let say your want 18psi of boost, then your gauge should hit over. Of you only push 20psi from the boost leak tester then you won't see 20psi by the gauge...

Try a boost leak test. Also check for loose wires on coolant temp, power transistor and coils. Do a tune up new plugs and wires. Also replace the fuel pump and do a compression test.

Why not use the bastard 20g? It's a 16g housings with a 20g wheels in it;). For a big 16g you can meet your goal with the right supporting mods and good tune.

You can install a block off gasket and keep the sensor. Obd1 is usually a visual check. It won't affect your tune

Check your connection to the coolant temp or replace the coolant temp. That's one of the symptoms of inaccurate coolant temp

Gaps varies on every setup, I've been tuning high boosted cars and I find it better to gap it small. I'd go .022, and go with bpr8es. It's conservative and to tell u the truth u will never feel the diff between hotter and colder plugs or bigger and smaller gaps. Colder plugs and smaller gap...

Stay with stock. Honda engines are small, non turbo, aluminum and open deck so it doesn't need much to cool down and doesn't create much heat. 4g63 engine is cast block, close decked, small coolant holes, and turbo. You definitely need a bigger radiator and bigger front opening to cool this...

There's not much advantage on this than just getting rid of the idling problem. I would use a thick gasket paper to seal it better, any auto parts sells a gasket maker that's rolled up. All you need is trace it and cut the peace and drill the wholes for screws. The disadvantage is you have...

I customized and tuned EPROM chips, the difference is the stock ecu has a fuel cut, and the timing trim is not meant for high boost, the fuel is too comservative. If your keeping it stock then your ok. But if your upgrading, then you better find an EPROM ecu.

I would clear up the fuel first, replaced the fuel filter then try it with the new ecu. Sounds like a bad ecu from the beggining,, but now that you replaced it, you have other problem that filled up while the car has been sitting. Def clear the fuel system. Make sure ur running the stock...

You can't really cool much from the civic radiator. Try running your fan all the time and see if that helps. 200 is still on safe temp. It also depends on how big is your mods. If you got bigger mods and boosting high, it would create more heat. Try running 2 bottle of water wetter plus...

One way to check is similar to doing a leak down test. First leak down test it and see if youll hear it wistleing in the cooland lines. Another good method is pushing alot of air on top dead center like around 80-100psi, this way you can see or hear better if it leaks in the coolant system...

Jack transmission or TRE

The point on this post is, reliability on high HP is possible as long as its done right. The quality parts is not a necessity and long as its a good quality install. Most of my piping setups are my own hand made with the help of a wire feed arc welder. Wastegate and BOV was ebay brand, till...

To tell u honestly I have a 600+hp dsm still have the ac, ps, pw, stock height adjustable struts, hta turbo, e86 fuel, simple eagle ross setup and mild head setup. The external wastegate is dump back to exhaust si its quiet on 30+psi of boost. The interior is leather black, quite ride on high...

If its an ebay brand you better off using the 2g housing. First it flows better. Second the exhaust manifold and the o2 housing is the hotest part or the exhaust and with the poor quality on that ebay housing, you will still end up replacing it with something better. So think about it before...

You should check it manually first. Manually ground the wire by hand and see if you can activate the 2step option. If not then the chip might be corrupted. You all should really bypass the clutch startup. Thats one cause of the main bearings premature wear.

It's one way or the other, both ballbearings are almost bulletproof. As long as it is installed the right way meaning the coolant cooling system is hooked up right, and you have oil restrictor and filters for oil feeds, and you check and clean the oil filter all the time. The both turbos...

It's the oil cooler where the oil filter screwed in. It has a coolant that flows thru it and its a common breakage when it's overtorque. All 91-up has this. I believe 90 is the only one comes with external oil cooler.So check it or better yet bypass the Coplant going thru it. it's a common...

First lets find out what set up you have first? If your injectors are not calibrated properly then no matter what you do you will always fight the ecu from controlling your idle. Aftermarket cams will screw up your idle as well. You wanna make this simple? Bypassed your IAC with a block off...