I sold 651/2000 a couple years ago to a kid in Logan utah, just wondering if anybody might have seen it or might know who has it, it's white, I'd really like to get it back. Picture of when I sold it.

wow if hes making that much power on a 20g you should be able to bump that up a couple extra ponies just from the higher airflow of the hx35. also if you go with that big of cams and have the fuel power i would go with a holset super 40, youll flow alot more air and without that much more spool...

all looks pretty good to me, injectors should be fine with the turbo you might get close to the 70% duty cycle at some spots but should be fine. hx35 should run awesome. i have one on 651, and if properly setup ( head studs, mls/ cometic head gasket, good build) you should easily be able to get...

when i said 2x i meant 2 full revolutions of the timing marks, and when checking timing marks the oil pump doesnt really matter, unless its off time. and i think by water pump pulley is the flange on the water pump that the pulley bolts to. looking at the tool in the picture it looks pretty...

not quite sure if i read it right but it sounds like your turning it counter clockwise. the easiest way is to install timing tool, rotate clockwise until belt gets tight, lightly tighten bolt on tensioner pulley, check hyd. tensioner pin, ( tensioner pin should be able to be pulled out and put...

yeah. the valves will still seat just fine. you can clean them but it would be alot easier and you would be better off to just buy new ones.

ok. yeah. im looking for a turbo version.

i have been doing what i can to try to clean up my engine bay and make things less bulky and i noticed that the 2g engine mount doesnt connect to the ps pump. has anybody tried or done a 2g power steering bracket on a 1g with 4ws?

sounds like you might have a problem in your positive cable. if you have any corrosion see how far it goes. if you have very much you will have power but once you put a load on it, it cant hold it and cuts out.

is there a difference between na and turbo?

looking for a good complete throttle body. if its not complete let me know what it doesnt have and it might work.

first off i wouldnt flush out your lines with brake cleaner, its not good on the rubber. i would get it proffesionally flushed. as for the compressor, you can try to blow it out or pull vacumnn on it to try to get rid of most of it. other than that you have to pull it to drain it completely...

sorry. its the molded plastic piece that seperates the engine bay from the wheel well.

check the fins on the radiator and condesor, could be condensor is plugged, fans pull air through the radiator but when the airflow is in front of it, its not getting enough airflow.

id agree with vr4play. seen it alot and its usually the exhaust valve wont open because something is broken so exhaust pushes out the intake. and it will show great compression. pull valve cover and see what you have.

i would say it depends on if its a single or dual core rad. and also what kinda driving you do.

have you had your battery tested?

i have a holset hx35 on 651. spool time it really good for a big turbo. there pretty easy to find and are cheap. you can do t3 or t4 or if you find one you can get a dsm hot side housing.

like it says. im looking for the isolator between the engine bay and the driver side wheel well.

you can get some kinda cheap all aluminum radiators that will fit but personally i would go with a afco scirocco, if your wanting room and good cooling. it will tuck under your radiator support and make a lot of room, unless you have ac and still want it.

yes. should be right after your air filter.

if its loose. the nut should be tightened while the wheel is spinning to center everything and get even preload. slowly get it tight so you can spin it but it drags. then loosen and lightly retighten. check for wheel spin and drag. the nut should be tight but the wheel should spin fairly easy...

probably wheel bearings, i work for ford and ive seen alot of them come in when other shops have done rotors or ball joints and the bearings arent preloaded correctly so when you drive it they loosen up and are too loose.

check the IAC motor, also could be a vacuum leak. does it hiss?

pm sent for ecu

check jnz tuning. they have some.

sorry i dont have a compressor, i ment condensor.

there is a inline dual pressure switch that you will need to check. if its not reading right the compressor wont turn on. the relay also needs to be checked, according to the diagram thats the last thing before the compressor. so check power at the relay and if you have power in and none out...

COP setup, all new pigtails, connectors, and boots. worked great. $175 + shipping great jdm valve cover, no cracks, ready to paint $65 + shipping SOLD set of 4 delphi injectors. 750cc, will need cleaned or rebuilt 2 werent firing fully. $50 + shipping full cruise setup...

i have some. im running some continentals. i really like how they ride, sits a little higher than the stock 15s but fills in really good. ill have to get some pics up tomorrow.

yes it wouldnt be as functional as a vent like the evo8 but it would still help with underhood temps. it would take alot of work but they could be made functional.

seen some of the gt500 vents, and not really a huge fan. really like this one, and the evo 3-4 vents.

best thing to do would to have your ground costant and wire the power side into the horn switch.

really been wanting to make or buy some functional and good looking hood vents, i wanna see what everyone here has seen or come up with.

ill be in boise later in the weekend, like saturday evening. just pm me and ill send you my number.

yes i do the. t-case is in great shape. both are still in working order but the tranny grinds in second and third.

next you'll have to check power in and power out of the multifunction switch, ( headlamp and turn signal switch) your headlights work on a completely different switch, just same assembly. so check power in and out of switch and go from there.

agreed. if you plan on using or selling the shell i would definately wait for the title.

try pressing the hazard flasher again. its kinda weird but mine did that about a month ago. i accidently pressed the hazard switch and none of the turn signals worked, pressed it again and everything worked fine.

i feel like every now and then i get the same vibration while driving. i think i might have figured it out though. i had a intercooler pipping that was rubbing on the radiator, but ill know if that was it for sure in a couple days.

i know timing and spark is all good. and i know its not the cam lobe cause it only started the other day and cams have been in for a year or so. should check oil pressure just to be safe the. the wierdest thing is driving to work it did it. but driving home from work it didnt do it. the mits...

i dont have balance shafts. why would it only cause a vibration when hot? and i do have hks 262 cams.

the past couple days my vibrations have been getting worse. at first start up it runs great, hardly any vibrations, even after 5 to 10 minutes it still drives great, only a small amount of vibrations, but after driving for at least 30 minutes, when coming to an idle, i get a very strong...

i have a some parts that i pulled off 651 that i need to get rid of.awd 6 bolt trans and t-case, 2nd and 3rd grind. $100 4 750cc delphi injectors, need rebuilt. $45 cruise control box with cables and vacummn actuator. $65 AC condensor, fan, drier, and lines. $75

so jealous! ive been wanting that scirocco for a while now.

i might have one in a couple days. do you want wires with it? i have 10 mm competition wires on them now.

if your running a stock MAF it HAS to be recirculated, if its not it will run very rich and cause damage. plus you should check out the sticky for the ecu caps

yes. there is a "recomended" break in period. usually around 500 miles. i would keep a close eye on it though cause if they replaced it and didnt torque it right it could cause future damage, and even some immediate damage.

i like the hx35 personally, not the best turbo if you use the dsm housing. just a little laggy. it should spool quicker with the twin scroll though.im set at 20psi right now and that turbo will pull 20 all day. the hardest thing is just getting the oil pressures right. but when its right and it...

yeah. i plan on building my own. it will probably be a while though cause i cant have alot of downtime.