Craig, what's the info on that carrier? Is it a reasonable replacement for the stock ones, as the kits are drying up?

is the car stock other than what you've got listed?

Can we get some updated pics Craig?

fair enough, I haven't seen a clutch/flywheel for a FWD in probably 15 years 🤣 I just remembered something being bigger.I don't understand how the clutch grinds on the trans housing

Do you have any measurements? I want to say that the FWD clutch is bigger than AWD, but it's been a lifetime since I read anything about it.Also, small world, I spent a lot of my childhood out in Duvall, and there are several people on the boards in that general vicinity; I know @mitsuturbo...

I did a little BFH massaging to the car where mine was because I was a little paranoid, but even with stock mounts and hitting the limiter on 2-3 shifts at 10,500 I don't have any marks from it hitting. Usually pulling the tensioner arm allowed enough clearance to sneak a belt through though...

I'd like to buy a replacement fuel and trunk lever setup for my car. If the cables are in nice condition I'm willing to buy those along with them also.Neither appears to be a super expensive part on performancepartout, but they're out of stock so I'm hoping someone has something laying around...

Since you mentioned it seems more to the one side than the other- have you checked the wheel bearing or the cv joints on that side?

pretty cool, I had thought all of those came with an automatic, nice to see a manual in one.

While you aren't having the issue at idle because the valve is staying closed (the problem you likely saw with the stock BOV), if you're actually making boost, and the valve opens when you lift, you can get stalling or stumbling- additionally with a small turbo, recirculating will have a...

It won't directly impact this, but if you didn't switch to GM MAF or speed density and you're doing VTA, you're only introducing problems for yourself.Boost leak test is a good first step, followed by testing the actuator. If you want to do a quick and dirty test, and you're comfortable with...

glad to see it back on the road! have you gotten to go hurt any feelings yet? :D

where are you in WA? there are a few of us here.Odd that it's grey, and has a 92 grille if it's a 91- Have you checked the VIN with @iceman69510 ?

I replaced a roasted CFDF in my talon with a sprung six puck (FX-400) and the pedal was lighter than an ACT 2600 and a really nice engagement IMO. It was easy enough to drive that my wife & mom both drove the car and had no complaints (the manual steering was a gripe by my mom in all fairness)...

2G head with an evo3 intake manifold is probably the best setup for a sub 550HP street car, and with a cast magnus or JMF billet, probably the best setup under 850. The 2g head is a substantially better design than the 1g, and unless you're trying to make 4 digit power there are NO downsides to...

You'll have to test fit with some 15's, but obviously, the OEM GVR4 wheels are 15s and fit. There are some spoke designs that won't clear on them, but I don't think that's the majority.

With super large turbos, there are gains with the Morrison Fab over the FP, but the FP isn't going to hurt power on a 14b/16g frame turbo.Given that back in the day, the thing was to get an Evo3 or 2g manifold (and port the crap out of it), and the FP basically puts you where a ported evo3...

You could convert to a vr4 drivetrain but at that point why not go AWD instead of RWD?If you want a RWD Galant (my question why would you), there are vastly better drivetrains you could swap to, but at that point you either need very deep pockets or major fab skills...

The 1g 92.5 rotors are the same as the SL, and the gvr4 used the same caliper as both, but the 3s & DSM are 5 lug hence the very different part number

91-92 GVR4 rotors are 4 lug, and use the same calipers as the NA 3000GT, so I'm not sure why they wouldn't work for you?

I actually started working on the car again a bit last weekend but found that I need some extra tools (and a lot more patience) to measure all the valve clearances, and whatnot to get things degreed correctly. I will say my cam gear indicators look wonky, but at TDC the dowel pins are up, so...

I've been mired in house and boat projects, and two kids under 4 🤣I am going to get back to it soon I hope though

It might be.. there was a guy on the ecm link forums making the plates for a while

Won't fit under the stock wheels, but I highly recommend. :rofl2:

I don't think I've run MMCD since like 2005 :rofl2:ECMLink + laptop if I'm logging anything anymore

I doubt there's a chance that's balance shaft related- they only exist to save vibrations from your seat- Mitsubishi sold tens of thousands of Sirius platform engines with no balance shafts from the factory.That said, it looks repairable, but you can get a non-OEM brand new pan for $60 so...

well, whatever you've done has definitely fixed it :DI don't have https set up for image folders :hsdunno:

so... what's up with the "birthday" value in the profile? Mine isn't my joined date, or my real birthday, it appears to just be a random date? The funny thing is, I'm pretty sure it was correct before because I have definitely gotten the forum birthday message spam before:roflwtf:

In a lot of old threads, my images are broken, not because of the hosting, but apparently because the site doesn't like the IMG tag anymore I'm assuming this is related to only allowing specific sites?In any case I've always used my own hosting, and there are probably many hundreds of images...

This is the Build Thread for 461/1000. Reply below.

^^^what they all saidThis is the kind of part that's great for preparing you to part out the car out of frustration.Unless that's what you're looking for, in which case, go for it.

Mark, did you ever end up seeing the car? it shows pending on fb now. Too bad the guy didn't post the badge # (or get it in a photo). CF hood, EvoX seats, some decent looking stuff under the hood, it seems promising, plus who doesn't love KG?

the best you'll get for that IMO is probably a quickener (really common on rally cars).I'm in the middle of converting my car to electric PS, though it's just assist on the column, not changing the rack. I'm doing it to be able to clean up the engine bay, as well as adjust how much assist I'm...

It's possible... to be honest I haven't seen an OEM piston in almost 15 years so...

I've run 2g pistons in a 6 bolt in the past, why can't you use a set from them?

not the problem here this time, but it can be- if the ISC goes out, it'll torch the 105 driver in the ECU- If your FIAV fails and leaks, it will definitely happen. So either do the blockoff/bypass plate (lame and costs money) or the free method here at DSMTuners and save yourself some pain...

mine's very short, but I ended up with some 45* fittings in there, and I have an HKS manifold so the placement is a bit different. On top of that, I have a -10 welded to the pan, which I like for eliminating at least one leak point.

keep the gvr4 reservoir if you want to keep the 4ws (actually low PS fluid warning) light. Just cap the returns and you're golden. I've got a 1g rack in my car for the ease of 4ws delete myself.

I think the problem is that the JMF manifold was built around the idea that the biggest turbo it would hang would be a 35R...I'm running the HKS manifold and there's enough room to just barely clear the lower motor mount with my T67. Unfortunately I can't go any bigger without a different...

ugh seeing this makes me consider hoarding some if a good source is found- but even then, how long is the goo shelf stable?

Thanks guys. Because I can't leave well enough alone, I just ordered some stuff to convert to electric power steering as well... Hopefully it doesn't drag out the process too much as I want to drive the car this summer, but I can't help myself.

if you got extra copies, I'd buy one from you. I was never able to find one in print sadly

The funny thing is, I probably read the instructions once like 3-4 years ago when I bought it...Jay Racing Billet mains, ARP studs, Kiggly Girdle...Front case is on. Unseen is the GSC race shaft. I know the stub is fine, but I've been wasting enough money that what's a little more?K1...

^^ Mark is correct. The balance bar allows you to choose which cylinder (front or rear) gets more power, so that's the adjustment right there.As for ABS... NO.It's garbage from the factory- it's 1980's dual channel glacial junk that increases stopping distances (my super non-scientific...

thanks! definitely hoping it helps make the car a bit more composed. I had a pretty interesting brake experience coming down from ~130 last time I had the car together that kind of cemented the idea in my head. With the factory bias, and the big fronts, it's really easy to lock the fronts with...

test fit round 1 of 10,298,235,092,835Rear master cylinder clevis hits the pedal box... time to do some cuttingnot pretty, but it's under the dash, not sharp, and everything clearsclose up of the balance bar pivot with the master cylinders attachedcustom CNC mounting plate...

Partly due to a desire to actually finish this stupid pig, and partly Covid19, I'm actually working on it againStock brake clevis prior to pedal assembly removalFor a car that doesn't even have surface rust on the underside and suspension can be removed without PB blaster... the...

So cool follow up. Rob found that he had missed some pigtails when he sent out the lights (no big deal since my car's been JSB), sent me a PM to let me know and shipped them out already. Good dude!

My green top is a billet top, and IMO looks better than the black topsWhen the original greentop on Tim's car failed, I was able to tell since when the car would finally get warm and the cas warmed up, it would start doing things like showing 12,500 RPM @ idle